I have declared (or as we used to say in shrink-talk "I own") my pretentiously snobby preference for SF dining with it's vastly superior wine lists and the wonderful way that wait staff manage to be "laid back" (dood) while at the same time attentive to a fault. This does not mean LA does not have restaurants worth the $$ and the time (recently Brentwood Grill gave fine dine). First you must purge the idea that "fine dining" can be found in the ubiquitous steak houses where the fat in the Cut is exceeded by the fat in the check. I mentioned Lou in an earlier entry which is more about wine than food. Then there is Campanile.

Here is a great LA dining establishment with a decades-long track record to justify the reputation.
The wine list is what can be expected from a fine LA restaurant with a top-notch sommelier. The wine list is comprehensive covering m-a-n-y regions. And it has value wines. Most importantly, you can get the sensibility in the selections. In a word, quality comes first. Jay Perrin is the man; think the love child of Michael Caine and Angela Lansbury. Charming, wine smart to a fault, engaging and peripatetic. Our waiter was even tempered with Ichabod Crane's looks and Hannibal Lecter's savois faire. He was also charming. It's LA. Everyone is in the business in some way.

The restaurant was two-thirds full on Saturday night peak hours. Writers' strike hanging heavy over deal makers' hunting grounds. We drank one supreme Rhone followed by a very nice California Rhone-style wine. Like Campanile, both are well-established "brands" receiving widening consideration from wine drinkers in LA. Here is what we drank.

1998 Rostaing Cote Rotie La Landonne (>U20, way over): Our hosts' first encounter with this wine. To put it on a scale more readily grasped I described it as Mouton of the Rhone. Status always comes first in LA. And the wine held up flavor-wise. Truthfully, I finished my two glasses before the wine opened. It was that stupefyingly good. I cannot even describe the flavors. The weight was medium bodied, the nose aromatic (spice? earth? what???). The color was not very brick-ish. If you must read about this wine (I think you should) then click here and read what Robert Parker had to say about this wine in a 2006 vertical tasting of Rostaing Cote Rotie wines. Thank goodness I have a couple more bottles left. If a ton of dough suddenly fell in my lap and I could buy any wine it would be La Landonne. Not a top end burgundy, red or white. La Landonne.

2004 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel $65 on the list: We guzzled the Rostaing so fast a second wine was called for. My criteria for selecting off the wine list were quickly met: the wine will be decent; the price does not exceed 100% markup; if it is a blend, it is not silly (e.g., zin with syrah). Tablas Creek is my favorite domestic winery in terms of excellence in winemaking across the board. I may favor other wineries for certain products but TC is the current Lou Gehrig of wineries. The Esprit red is their top Rhone blend, their supreme "mark". The wine was probably released around $40. It did not disappoint. Still young with high toned fruit, acid, soft if firm tannins. Lovely nose. Did very well with the entrees (two sliced prime ribs - 10 oz, lamb chops and a reasonably sized New York steak).

Take heed Mastros! Campanile is to LA dining what TC is to California Rhone houses. Best in breed, sensible all round, engaging, smart. Most importantly, sleep that night was undisturbed. In a few words Rhone blows away Bordeaux, and Campanile blows away Mastros.

Whatever happened to Oasis?

The tBoW tasting team returned to Carneros for the post-Thanksgiving-day wine sojourn. It's a family tradition, y'know. This year it was me, the missus and Aunt Betsy with the naughty clogs. The regional choice was Livermore or Carneros. Much as I would like to visit another California wine region...with McKenzie-Mueller (M-M) beckoning the choice was easier than a Trojan win over the Bruins.

The wines reviewed below were purchased in Berkeley at North Berkeley Wines (NBW), Kermit Lynch or in Carneros. North Berkeley Wine offers a strong selection of Verget wines. Verget is a negociant who buys juice and produces only white Burgundy wines. Quality is high and pricing is very fair. Classic NBW selection. If I am going to visit the Bay Area then I am going to visit Kermit and NB wine merchants. They are covered plenty on this blog as they are in this post. However, I am not going to review M-M since I did a few weeks past. I will say once more that Bob and Karen M-M are expert hosts, and Bob makes absolutely wonderful wines. Do not overlook Carneros next time in Napa. We tasted on Wednesday before Thanksgiving Day, T-Day, and the day after.

Another family tradition is making sure everyone at the turrkey table learns how to taste and enjoy wine. So the tasting can become a descriptive free-for-all which is reflected in some of the notes.

The good news is every wine (except the Adastra) is a U20.

2004 Verget Saint Bris $U20: Recommended by John at NBW. Sauvignon blanc from Burgundy! On the nose we get oak and green apple. On the tongue and in the mouth sour kiwi lime and lemon. Some green bean and cucumber. You taste the coolness. On the finish I thought of the tennis-ball sized rough skinned crab apples I ate as a kid. Here is a link to a wine/travel blog that covers St Bris. Recommended surfing.

2004 Verget Bourgogne "Grand Elevage" $U20: Green gold color. Sold as "de-classified Mersault" which is always a good pitch when dealing with the Duke and Dauphin. We never ask the obvious question - why was it de-classified? Is the war over? Did somebody important die? Was a handful of radical vintners granted amnesty? While we pondered these question we waited for the wine to open up. As might be expected from a young premium white burg this took hours. The first sniff and taste was oaky, soapy, tannic, even musty. Aunty B mentioned cow pie and she would know (Michigander farm girl). A couple hours later when the tasters were also a bit more friendly they suggested sandalwood, currant berry blossom and scented candle. 13%. NBW

2003 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre $U20: Another sauvignon blanc. Green gold color (even though it has enough years to turn yellow). Nose is lime, mineral, acid, bright. Flavors are sweet and fruity apple. Honeysuckle and hydrangia. Flavors are green, earthy, oak. Distinctive taste with waxy cheese and peach stone.

2004 Vincent Dureil-Janthial Bourgogne Passetoutgrains $U20: Are you ready for a red gamay pinot noir blend? Dave Corey of Core Wines (a Santa Barbara/Paso Rhone guy) always got a chuckle from me when he described pinot as a nice blending grape. Well, Mr. Corey must have known that Passetoutgrains is a traditional field blend in Burgundy of the two grapes. So now we know it too. Raspberry flambe' and smoky chocolate on the nose. The gamay is quite noticeable. Liked it plenty. My choice with the bird. NBW.

2005 Chateau du Trignon Cotes du Rhone $U20: This was excellent red village Rhone. Color is purple. Nose is sweet, doughy, dusty, with pepper. Tannic, strawberry-kiwi jam. The strawberry-kiwi is there in the mouth. Medium weight, slight tannins. Grenache fruit prevails. Turns to granny apple cider after a couple hours. Bold effort and terrific wine. 14%. Kermit.

Here is an article that describes this particular wine as well as asks the question why are there not more wines like this one made in California. Good question.

After visiting at M-M we walked across the street and said hello to the vineyard manager at Adastra. A retired physician and family run this tiny 1500 case operation in wine country. Blippin hot winemaker Pam Starr is the highly touted "soil translator" (read her October 07 interview here). We tasted five wines and purchased two. The style is high-tone rustic. Well-made wines that are balanced but show minimum handling. If you can visit you should. I have posted a couple of photos FYI.

Adastra 2006 Syrah $56: Syrah production in Carneros is small so we were quite interested in tasting this one. This is the winery price, of course, which is 100% retail. But at ~150 cases where would one find it anyway? Very fruity reminiscent of Santa Rita Hills with more lean fruit. Cold weather fruit. Not plump. 16% alcohol! When I mentioned our host said we would not have known without looking. He was right. 100 cases.

2005 Pinot Reserve Proximus $36: Ripe style, rustic, not melded. Tannins floating like particles. Just a visual, not actually. All good components. 200 cases. 14.5%.

The Adastra wines need to lay down awhile. These are the kinds of bottles I pull from the cellar in five years. I know I will be pleasantly surprised recalling the 40 minutes memorably spent there. And I bet I will say this is pretty good.

A bonus wine...I discovered this in my cellar and have been opening and enjoying it the past month.

2002 Beckmen Cuvee le Bec ~$14: Current release is the 2005. The blend is classic Rhone style. In this vintage it is almost half Grenache, one quarter Mourverdre and one-fifth Syrah and 10% Counoise. The 2005 blend is 52% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 8% Mourvedre, and 5% Counoise. I prefer Grenache and Mourverdre to Syrah so the blend suits me fine. I find California syrah to be ripe and fruity. Domestic grenache seems more restrained and earthy without sacrificing fruit. Mourverdre provides the bold meat flavors I like in Rhone wines. This blend after 5 years in the bottle and three in my cellar is quite presentable. Soft, tannins have blended in. More fruit than pepper and earth. The wine is perfect for any evening and almost any meal. By the way, this blend is featured in that SF Chronicle article (above) as proof that a good tasting well-priced Rhone blend can be made in California.

It is axiomatic to oenophiles that you have to sit on some wines for awhile so the wine can develop in the bottle. I am coming to the conclusion that this is just one more corollary to the magic chef and the hallowed ground marketing themes that have created the Parker/Rolland two headed monster. Wine does age in the bottle. But does it get better? Recent pourings/tasting have concluded otherwise. The 1996 Burgundies flopped like Vlade Divac taking a charge. And here we have some pinot noir bottlings from the fabled Santa Rita Hills that also fell well below high expectations when purchased on release.

To be fair, tBoW must own being swept up willingly in the SRH hype and falling for the bombastic fruit forward styles that came from the region. How times and palates change.

This was a somewhat free-form tasting that began with white wines of curious interest and closed with five "heavy hitters". Be sure to check out very good friend David McMillan's delirious and delicious political content at the end of this post.

2006 Treana Central Coast Mer Soleil Monterey $10: Purchased online at wines.com. 55% Viognier 45% Marsanne. Dotoré asks "what are they aiming for with this wine"? Too much oak, alcohol, everything. More like a California chardonnay than a white Rhone blend. Awful. Whatever they were aiming for it could not have been this wine. 14.5%

2005 Andre Perret St Joseph $40: A Robert Chadderton selection and the first I have found unimpressive. Highly regarded producer. Would like to taste his reds. Foxy flavors make the Marsanne Rousanne blend taste more like a Viognier. Worth $15 but not what tBoW paid. At least the alcohol is a decent level. 13%

1999 Jean Luc Colombo Le Rouet Blanc Hermitage: Online press on this winemaker is appealing; terroir driven, opinionated, non-traditional. However, this wine did not show well. Acidic and lean out of the bottle. Out of balance. "Nun piss" says an irreverent taster who will never be on Chris Matthews. Somewhat madeirized. Parker says "mature". Soiled flavor as in earth. Not a very good wine. [ed. had to go with red label]

2006 Curran Grenache Blanc $26: tBoW is a Curran fan. This 2006 has been reviewed on two other occasions prior. It may be heading over the hill. Fruit presence more pronounced than old world wines squeezing life from our tongues. Marked contrast to the Rhone efforts. But the wine is out of whack. Enough time has passed to come around as these wines seem to need 12 months. We are struck by how generally mediocre are the white wines, despite expectations.

2005 Lamargue Costieries de Nimes $10: At the insistence of our honored guest we opened this delightful bottle from Languedoc. 50% Grenache Blanc, 50% Rousanne in the blend, reasonably balanced, gentle enough to sip gently, low enough alcohol to sip again and again, and easily the best of class on this day. Great value. 13.5%

disappointed and unimpressed with the white Rhones we moved on to the featured showing...Santa Rita Hills pinot noir.

These wines came right out of the tBoW cellars of yours truly and Dotoré where they have been since release.

2002 Ojai Clos Pepe $40: What could be better than pairing the original Santa Barbara/Central Coast winemaker Adam Tolmach with one of the premium new era growers (and winemaker) Wes Hagen of Clos Pepe. The wine is awkward and even a bit vegetal. Truly Adam Tolmach is somewhat of a tortured soul. Take a moment to read his own notes on this wine. I prefer his Syrah wines.

2002 Sea Smoke Southing $50: Rich, dense pinot fruit. Very smoky even though that has nothing to do with the label name. Let's pretend it does. Entry level for the most collectable SRH label. But not the best wine from the region!! 14.3%

2004 Kenneth Crawford Clos Pepe Pinot Noir $40: Thin, acidic, more like a vin ordinaire Syrah from southwest France. Something happened here between the vintage, harvest and vinification. Further evidence that Syrah is the wine to seek from SRH? I'm convinced. [ed. I never noticed how similar are the Sea Smoke and K-C labels.]

2002 Melville Carrie's VIneyard Pinot Noir $60: That is correct sir. We ponied up three Jacksons for this monster wine. It is rich. It is ripe. It is eating the little dog. This wine, alcohol and all, was preferred to the K-C, Sea Smoke and Ojai efforts. Nobody would ever confuse this with an old world pinot noir. But they might confuse it with a zinfandel port from Sonoma. 15.1%

2004 Paul Lato Goldcoast Pinot Noir $30: Elegant, balanced, delicate, smooth, silky, some smoke. Paul gets it right every time. In the vintages tBoW owns he made 75 cases. Why didn't we buy more? That's right, we had a limit. Dumbkopf!! 14.5%

So here is the real question. Given the recent tastings of SRH and Burgundy (avoiding impulse to write French Burgundy), from which region is tBoW likely to pick his next pinot noir wine? Domestic, and in the following order....Williams Selyem and Paul Lato in a dead heat; then select Oregon bottlings, then select SRH bottlings. If we go "old world" we will be looking for recent vintages from less fashionable regions....from Becky Wasserman and North Berkeley Wines.

Still have a taste for satire and a contemporary POV? Try David McMillan's News In Color on youtube. 75 entires and climbing. Here is one of my currents faves. WARNING: this material can be political.

The Missus told tBoW she has had it with the pedestrian wines we have been putting in front of her lately. She gets the concept there are decent wines to be had for under $20. She appreciates the thrill of the hunt for these wines, AND ALL THAT. However, after all the tasting fun is completed during hors d'ouvres she wants tBoW to know when the main course arrives she expects a glass of good wine to accompany.

Fortunately, tBoW did not have to bear this assault alone. The perceptive and fearless Dotoré was present to get to the bottom of things. It turns out she has grown increasingly less fond of the choices placed in front of her the past year. The Missus misses a fruit forward, rich California wine, preferably a pinot noir. Dotoré concludes "there is no question these southwestern France wines are an acquired taste and radically different from California products. However, there is also no question if you are looking for value wines today do not waste your time with California".

tBoW says he'll handle the wine, the Missus will get her fruity reds, but we really should let an authority weigh in on domestic differences and mending fences.

Onto the wines with help from friends and other innocent bystanders.

2006 Mâcon-Villages Vendanges Manuelles Auvige $15: Robert Chadderdon selection. How quickly we forget! Reviewed in Jan 08. Loved it then. Love it now. White Burgundy that is special not only because it meets the U20 criterion but because it is so dang tasty. Lean with some butter, mostly Chardonnay fruit, apple fruit. Meant to be drunk young. Been drinking this most of the summer. May I say it blows away domestic efforts with Chardonnay? Youbetcha. Has not failed yet. 13%

2005 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires $22: The perfect wine for returning to the world after hanging on for dear life with a dreaded summer cold. Rousillon village wine with just the right spice and cherries to remind me that I had been living on cough syrup the previous 3 nights. We all know how the palate goes on the fritz in the face of running snot and throat-like-rasping-tool...non-stop. OK. Enough whining and back to the wine-ing!! "Although initially the wines were tannic and extracted, Gauby has moved towards a more balanced elegant style in recent years, and the wines are much better for it." Credit the Wine Doctor who is always worth reading. Get the rest of his enlightening Gauby review here. Predominantly Grenache which is a grape I favor especially when made like this. I should have known; another brilliant Peter Weygandt Selection. A very civilized 13% alcohol level (unattainable if you are making wine in SoCal).

L'Oustal Blanc K6 $16: Winemaker Claude Fonquerle from MInervois. 100% 100 year old Carignane vines. In poker that could be the Minervois nut nut. Fruity for French wine however perhaps not so much for an inspired Southwestern France vintner looking for some New World love. Another Peter Weygandt Selection. I am thrilled that I can publish a photo from Minerovis which is an ancient Cathar stronghold where 200 locals were burnt at the stake in the 13th century following a long and religiously righteous siege. And what goes on with Minervois wines? Let Peter Weygandt's website tell that story. And this wine in particular? Can you say 2/3 in concrete vats. That is why they call it Old World. Cannot argue with the delicious results at phenomenal value. 13.5%

A few brief words about the Cathars. Some refer to the decades-long assault on Southwestern residents of the culturally distinct and independent land known as the Oc as the 4th Crusade; the only crusade fought on European soil. Led northern French nobility, in particular Simon de Montfort, under the auspices of the Papacy soldiers dedicated 120 days (a quatraine) to seeking out and destroying enemies of the Papal state, banished from Rome at that time.

The times roughly coincided with the fatal attack on the Knights Templar and, like in that dark-of-night blitzkrieg, the aim was to grab whatever wealth and title could be had with a ruthless and merciless military maneuver under the blessing of a besieged religious institution (that would be the Catholic Church). [ed. twilight on the plaza in Carcasonne]

The Cathars were doomed precisely because they were a very popular religious sect whose leaders eschewed the fine clothing and crusty rings favored by local Catholic priests. [ed. In today's mondo vino is it unfair to characterize terroir driven winemakers as the Cathars, the all-homogenizing Pope as Michel Rolland, and Parker as swordsman Simon de Montfort?] Cathar priests wore simple unadorned robes and sandals and walked throughout the region preaching simple life, sexual abstinence (I never said they were perfect, although the holiest Cathars were known as Perfects), healthy nutritious diets, and living a life devoted to joining the heavenly Father after death. They also believed the earth was actually hell and the Pope and all his minions were devils.

They were harmless as a military threat however they were the very definition of sedition and it was their intention to undermine the Holy Roman Church. The Church referred to them as Albigensians because the city of Albi was an open - and defiant - Cathar religious center. Of course, one of the most quoted lines was uttered by th Inquisitor Abbott Arnaud when ordering the wholesale slaughter of 20,000 Beziers inhabitants: "kill them all, God will know his own". [ed. Beziers cathedral above]

Here is a video pitch for a book I have not read that covers (romanticizes?) the era. Romanticizing the Cathars is easily done since the events that occurred frequently appear in culture (films, books) without really linking one and all. For example, Dan Brown's books in some if not large part derive directly from Templar and Cathar history and beliefs.

2006 Romano Dogliotti La Caudrina Moscato d'Asti $17: Another super wine to serve first on a summer evening wherever you are. Fizzy, even frothy in the glass. Not too sweet. Good acid, balanced, excellent. At the end of the night looking back we liked it as much as any other wine poured. 5.5%

2007 Domaine de Rieux Cotes de Gascogne $10: Vin de Pays from Gascony by P. Grassa. Lovely, steely, green melon flavors. Minerals. Refreshing. Screw top says drink me every day. 10%

1997 Josef Friedrich Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen Auslese: Cellar purging yields this forgotten item. The ghosts of fruits that once were here, now faded. I did find a 2001 review that raved. Still, quality Riesling is present with some petrol, elder flower and linden flavors. If you are curious here is an excellent description of all the terms on the label. Here is a photo of the village where Josef Friedrich calls home. Kinda steep. 9%

2005 Michel Sarrazin Mercurey: Imported by North Berkeley Wine. Dried out, light tannins, bitter. Not a tasty wine. May be the wine that pushed the Missus over the top. Even Kobe misses pay ups [ed. news to me.]. 13%

2003 Terres de Truffes Cave TerraVentoux $12: The Cotes du Ventoux is a Rhone appellation known for black truffles. This wine is made by Bruno Clement who is a leading harvester in the region and owns the most prominent regional restaurant for cooking with truffles. Sounds good to tBoW! 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah can be a heavenly blend. This is a very nice wine with some stuffing and plenty of forward fruit. Grenache blended with Syrah can show a creamy texture and flavors in the right hands. The Missus was able to enjoy it once she evacuated her festering opinions. Thanks to Vin de Pays Wines in Long Beach CA for posting the excellent write-up on Bruno Clement. 13.5%

Postscript to the lovely Missus...the 2003 TerraVentoux is why we hunt. Wonderful wine, made locally in the cooperative winery, tasting like something the vintner imagined. And $12. Can't beat that with a hockey stick.

It has been 20 years since tBoW visited Portland and the Willamette Valley in 1993. We made two day trips into the Valley touring McMinnville and the Dundee Hills. Here is a map of the AVAs in the valley. Link here to the Willamette Valley Wineries website.

We visited about ten wineries including Domaine Drouhin, Rex Hill VIneyards, Torii Mor Winery, Brickhouse Vineyards, and Lange Winery.

Drouhin was impressive on both winery construction choices and wines. The winery is set on a hillside to enable gravity flow at each step in the winemaking process. The female winemaker is a family member who, we were told, would not be permitted to act as director of winemaking in Burgundy. The Drouhin wines were pricey.

The setting at Brickhouse was magical. Doug Tunnell, the proprietor and winemaker is an early biodynamic farmer. His vineyards were remarkably cluttered with plenty of weeds and flowers between the rows. We went to Oregon to taste and buy Pinot Noir. At Brickhouse we bought Chardonnay. Even then tBoW was losing his taste for New World Chard, but the palate does not lie. The Brickhouse chard - his premium Cuveé de Tonneliere - was thick and oily without the tropical scents and flavors common to California versions. In fact, it was Burgundian. [ed. "Burgundian" is the highest Pinot praise possible].

When tasting wines the setting can significantly enhance and confuse the experience. And at Brickhouse the sun lowering on the horizon surely influenced our decision making. [ed. special thanks to Jean Yates of Avalon Wine Company in Corvallis for the photo]. Our purchases were gone within 5 years and each bottle, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, was memorably good. The Torii Mor products were ripe in the New World style. And Rex Hill seemed too large a facility to make interesting wine...at least those were the conclusions in 1995.

The fact is I rarely drink Oregon Pinot Noir. Or perhaps I do not drink enough Oregon Pinot Noir!Pricing is too often an issue. Another producer with attractive pricing is Evesham Wood in the southern end of the valley. Their wines seem to be more firm, even stiff like a Calvinist preacher. However, after popping the Lange Winery magnum purchased on that trip I am ready to get re-acquainted with Oregon Pinot Noir.

1993 Lange Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $70 (in 1995): Purchased at the winery. The wines seemed very well made. The magnum may have been sitting on the tasting room shelf for a year. The sommelier at Josies in Santa Monica pulled a cork that had done its job. The bottom was crusted black leaving a ring 10 cm high on the perimeter. Stored in the tBoW temp controlled cellar since 1995, the tight stained cork promised the wine was at least preserved decently. The color was dark brick red. The nose showed beets at first. There was the tiniest bit of volatile acidity for about 5 minutes. With 20 minutes air the wine began to open. The fruit was perfectly balanced. The beets converted to cherries with plums. The weight was light, delicate, balanced. This was truly exquisite. The fact this was 15 years old testified to what can happen in Oregon. The only issue is price point. The 2006 version is $22. That is a very good price. Winemakers Don and Wendy Lange also have single vineyards at $60 which would have to be very good to get tBoW to break the U20 prime directive. [ed. Dotoré recollects a Lange Reserve was top wine in a 1999 Pinot Noir tasting prompting a new Oregon hunt-a-thon]

This wine experience - busting open a 15 year old Pinot Noir that is outstanding in every way - is especially compelling given the recent belly flop by the two 1996 red Burgundies that anchored the King's Tasting. The only caveat is whether the fruit that went into this bottling may now be going into the current single vineyards. tBoW did contact Don Lange asking what might be expected of the 1993 vintage in mag. Lange said he had not had it in a couple years but that 1993 was an outstanding vintage. Well, congratulations to the Langes. This was rare and beautiful wine. The kicker? 12.5%

2000 Domaine de Bonserine Cote Rotie Les Moutonnes $50: Syrah wine from the Rhone. Rich and not showing any age. Juicy but no extracted. Quite fruity. Purchased at new Wine Cask in town. Matching it up to 2001 Croze Hermitage reviewed in the August 30 post. Another winner. Nice work from the buyer at the Cask. 13%

2001 Salomon Undhof Kremser Koegl Riesling Reserve $40: Steve Goldun of Palate Food & Wine [ed. LA's best and most wonderful restaurant for wine lovers] poured the Austrian Riesling and stopped the show at our table. Given he had been bombing us with glasses, each something new, sometime familiar, this wine stood out like Obama at a Florida bingo tournament. It followed a Vouvray sparkler from Huguet, A Cabernet Rose from Saumur, and a recent vintage Chablis. Deep golden and afresh apricot nose with plenty of acid. It was outrageously interesting and delicious. One of those wines you know as soon as you taste it that you must try it again. Terry Theise Selection. 13%

2007 Vinho Verde Adamado $10: Produced by the Adega Cooperativa de Ponte de Lima of Portugal. This is the prototypical Latino summer white wine. Limoncello, lemonade, bright, acidic. THis is delicious wine but not for the faint of heart. If you mostly know white wine as buttery Chardonnay with tropical flavors then you will be shocked when you first sip this margarita mix. I tasted and bought it at Palate in Glendale. It is widely available around town. 10%

2006 Rex HIll Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $20: Ain't it great being humbled? tBoW pans Rex Hill for making too much wine to possibly produce anything decent and here it comes. Greg St Clair of K&L [ed. Greg told tBoW to stay at Da Felicin in Monforte d'Alba so ree-speck snap] said this was an honest everyday PN from Oregon, otherwise Oregon wines are not really in the personal rotation. The price is perfect and the wine is...worth another go round. Has that very nice blend of cherry fruit and soft smoke. No barnyard but plenty good Pinot muscle to take it out of the candy store. Very good. My apologies to Rex Hill and congrats on keeping the alcohol down!! 13.5%

2006 Sineann Oregon Pinot Noir $24: Cherry cola, blueberries, pretty ripe. Oregon shows Santa Rita Hills they have not cornered the market on overripe Pinot Noir. tBoW prefers a more restrained and high tone style but this does not exactly taste bad. With all the rich fruit you might consider this the poor man's Williams Selyem. 14.6%

As the Presidential campaign comes to a crushing close we are asked to focus our remaining attention muscles on voting. tBoW urges every reader to follow the same principles in voting that we advocate in selecting wines. People who "buy the label" will vote for the candidate with most seductive TV ads. They will be as disappointed in their candidate as they will in their wines, forced to utter platitudes and faith-based claims that they made a great choice. Folks who read a little will buy a wine for which they have a pretty good idea what will come out of the bottle. They will vote with what's left in their wallets for a balance between quality and value to the consumer. Trust and value and an informed position. Not the "razzle dazzle" Chris Matthews has tattooed on the McCain campaign. [ed. cantcha see Sarah P in this? yoobethca!]

Here are some "blochbustah" wines tBoW has been tasting on the campaign trail.

2007 Rusack Santa Barbara County Rosé $12 (at the winery): Raspberry and peach color. Soft watermelon gummi bear flavors. Made from Syrah and Grenache but you would never know the wine is so delicate and soft. Nice effort. 13.1%

2005 Koehler Syrah Estate $32 (at the winery): Big thick "man's wine". Syrupy and spicy. Hot on the first taste (high alcohol). Blends in with the powerful, brooding fruit. Think Ludwig Von. This has the best and the worst of Santa Rita Hills wines. Blow you away fruit with bowl you over alcohol. 15.1%

2004 Domain de la Chapelle Les Gallieres Chinon $15: Perhaps it was a mistake opening this after the Koehler. The wine could not stand up next to the dark and forebearing Syrah. This is Cabernet Franc however it is harvested not very ripe, somewhat lightweight. Not very much fruit flavors. 13%

2004 Chateau Gaillard Saumur $15: Dirty, flat, uninspired. Because this bottle was purchased from the same wine shop and said wine shop recently lost the clerk who had a sense of what tBoW liked and personally had tasted many of the wines in his shop...it reinforces an important principle of wine shopping. If the Prime Directive is find a shop that carries a nice array of interesting wines, the the Prime Prime Directive is find a sales person in that shop whose palate matches yours. If both conditions can be met then the likelihood of buying two dog wines like these at the same time from the same shop is greatly reduced. 12.5%

2002 Ojai Vogelzang Syrah $33: Unusual nose of garlic salt. Briny and earthy. The Vogelzang planting is in the southeastern corner of the Santa Ynez Valley where it is hot hot hot. The flavors are berry berry full of berry. Smoky, skunky, funky. The wine is well made but not too appealing at this point. Have had this more than a year ago and liked it better. 14.5%

1996 Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac $112 (online today): The ringer, big ticket. A birthday gift to ubiquitous tBoW tasting team leader Dotoré (thank you). A "luxury" cuvee. Classic white pepper all over the nose. Idiosyncratic to some. Elegant to all. Liquer richness and intensity. Seems to be perfectly aged right now. Does not fade quickly. Holds up throughout the meal. Excellent French Syrah. 13.8%

Election night and Mr. & Mrs. tBoW are at Casa Dotoré watching the inevitable results roll in. Teary eyes brimming with joy as compulsive critics made assessments of TV bombast; each network attempting to capture more viewing eyes with "spectacular" sets and grander gimmicks.Kind of like trophy wines!!

The most "spectacular" TV piece was Wolf Blitzer's hologram interview of Will.I.Am. Sorry. I could only find Jessica Yellin. Not sure what this accomplished other than "cool". Remember when Wolfie broadcast from the roof of his Baghdad Hotel in 1990 as Desert Storm kicked off? Low-of-the-low tech videos with a night vision camera looking out his hotel room window...and it was riveting. Hmm.

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In 2008 Wolf worked the CNN and CNBC shared set. The photo at top does not do justice to the red white and blue color scheme that was probably best appreciated in the company of Hunter Thompson. But he's dead.

The "big winnah" was CBS who tricked out the Rockefeller Center ice rink as an election map. Now that was a cool idea. It is good to know some creative folks find a way to do something fabulously goofy on a national stage.

It was a night to remember for the outcome...and the wines...but it was all over before we popped the champagne. We went ahead with our plan anyway. Y'know we had a feeling.

2003 Clape Cornas $80 to $100: Been holding onto this one awhile. Dotoré said bring something that would celebrate and commemorate the Obama Rama Lama Ding Dong. This was tBoW's selection. And it did not disappoint. Syrah from one of the top three Southern Rhone winemakers, and possibly the least known in the USA but well known inside the neighborhood. Read about Clape here. Extracted says Dotoré. A soft wine at peak level. Very well developed. Slightly tannic and even somewhat rustic. Not much of a nose. Unpolished but with depth and appeal. Top of the crest. Will open and can still go further. I would like to find it again. Worthy of the evening. 14%

2000 Ridge Montebello $120 today: The classic Bordeaux blend - 75% Cab Sauv, 23% Merlot - from Santa Cruz and their flagship [ed. premium] label. The 2000 vintage disappointed those who wanted "commemorative" century wines, but not at Ridge. His top brand was one of the best among the notable Cabernet blends in 2000. The wine is showing mentholatum with lean and intense flavors. The wine is high toned as usual. Perfectly balanced. A California wine all the way and the best our state has to offer. When wine writers wax nostalgic about Napa reds they always include Ridge Montebello as a "first growth". tBoW and Dotoré have been blessed to taste Montebello in many vintages and it never disappoints. Even works with the BBQ. 13.4%

Michel Turgy NV Blanc de Blancs Réserve Selection Brut $45: Yeasty nose, citric flavors. Has vanilla cream. Toasty quality which is always nice. Creme brulee and lemon rind. Perfect for dessert. Liked this bottle alot. 100% Chardonnay.

So that was election night. Now all we have to do is get through the next 24 months.

Movies are not at all like wine even though analogies are easy enough. Movies are widely accessible inspiring a wide range of opinions by many; unlike wine which is often intimidating to the general public with opinions widely offered by a few experts. Films are transitory. Very few have staying power. While one seldom returns for the same exact bottle of wine a seasoned wine consumer learns to look for wines by the same producer or importer. Following films made by a particular director who gets the benefit of the doubt is the same as wine selected by importer Robert Chadderdon just because they are Chadderdon selections.

Actors are rarely as important to the lover of film craft as is the director or writer or even the camera operator. So it is with the label of a particular house or chateau; it guarantees little more than a bloated advertising budget. The region or vineyard is far more important. There are exceptions. Wine houses like Sterling consistently produce a pleasing bottle or three decade over decade, much like Al Pacino consistently fugures in movies of interest if only because he is in them. Nevertheless, one would not run to catch the opening of Pacino's newest romp through the sets the same as one would not hurry to find the newest vintage of Sterling Chardonnay. Yet, it is usually worth a taste if somebody pours some Sterling in your glass or if the next channel is playing Scarface or Serpico or even Dick Tracy. And certain brands like Pacino and Sterling or Duckhorn become iconic transcending the wine or film itself. Say hello to my little wine.

What if wines were critiqued like movies? You could not reveal the ending and you would have to make diversionary chat about the efforts of the stars, writers and director in order not to reveal too much about the story. Is two thumbs up any different or less informative than a Spectator rating of 90 points?

tBoW had a chance to see four of the "buzz" films in the running for an Oscar or three this year. Here is how we break them down; endings and all. Of course, we match to recently tasted wines hoping to illustrate some of the shared qualities.

Slumdog Millionaire: The goofy dancing at the end put me off and I was already bored. The contrived story is compounded by the obligatory shots of Taj Mahal as if to remind the viewer this is India. I kept thinking of El Norte; each chapter a predictable heart breaker. The Abu Graib torture scenes and the kids living on trash dunes should pull plenty of Oscar voters. The message is that India has many young educated people who just want to line dance. tBoW does feel a bit hypocritical having posted videos from Bring it On and Madonna voguing. Sit on your Thumbs and stay home.

2005 Perrin & Fils Chateauneuf du Pape Les Sinards $18: Cannot go wrong with this wine found in the Kirkland Nation bin. Usually young vines, sometimes it can be declassified Beaucastel. Obviously made for the US market which is to say Parkerized. Like the Slumdog movie this wine has everything that feels good with just enough hints of suspense and danger. Good burnt tones and plenty of fruit. Rich and ripe Rhone Grenache and Syrah. Like Slumdog, it is charmingly vapid. A great summer BBQ wine. 14%

Milk: Movie of the year is what we thought as the credits rolled. "Courageous" performances from straight guys Penn and Franco. Well made cinema. Excellent story well-paced. Sean Penn at his best. Effective and clever use of videos from the era (1970s) blended with new vids made to look like the originals. The most interesting appear at the beginning; actual film form "queer busts" from the 1960s before there was even a dream of a gay revolution. Great performances all round. A MUST SEE. Two thumbs up where the sun don't shine.

2005 Colomé Malbec Estate Vino Tinto Gran Altura $25: Argentine wines are getting more press as high end retailers turn to South American wines for value and quality. tBoW is surprised this wine receives little exposure. Colomé has the Hess pedigree, a great story (highest vineyards in the world), the right price point and a great wine. Just like Milk has Sean Penn, guy on guy kissy face, and a modern day political martyr. This wine (covered in an April tBoW post) is rich without being over-ripe, balanced and lush. A winner. 14.9%

Benjamin Button: tBoW would never see a film like this until it showed up on cable. Big studio, glossy label, big stars, big story. Titanic meets Dorian Gray. Like seeking out and buying a 100 point wine the result can only be disappointing. Was I wrong. In this kind of film the story (F. Scott Fitzgerald) and the script (Eric Roth) have to be really strong because an actor like Brad Pitt never carries a film of this wide scope. He works best with a buddy like in Fight Club or Snatch or even Troy; all roels with personality twists. Pitt is very good. Nawlins is his co-star. The story crosses continents, has Nazis, some light sex and a strong set of supporting characters and actors. Titanic meets Forest Gump. Could sneak in as Best Pic on the flag-waving vote aided by the Slumdog backlash and the Obama-Milk votes. Two thumbs in your popcorn bag.

2007 Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz McLaren Vale $30: Big new world wine at the lower end of the "collectible" new world wine price scale. Competes with Dead Arm and such. Wine Speculator gave it 92 and placed it on their top 100 list (#83). At 6300 cases it does not come close to Argentine production volumes. The wine is very ripe, too ripe for tBoW but perfect for the "big studios" (Parker, Wine Spectator). Strawberries galore. See the movie instead. 15/5%

The Wrestler: Mickey Rourke's comeback told through a simple story of triumph in failure using whatever eroding strengths one has left at the end. This film testifies to the range and diversity of interesting movies in 2008; perhaps best film year since 1969 when Ratso Rizzo and Joe Buck lost squared off with Rooster Cogburn and Mattie Ross. Mickey Rourke's performance is riveting. Can't help but see this as his bookend to "Pope of Greenwich Village". Rourke plays compulsive loser as well as anyone. Unlike Button and Milk this is not big studio. Instead we get a hand-held camera panorama of New Jersey suburbia and turnpike strip club interiors. More like Blair Witch meets Boogie Nights. Could Tarantino have made this? Doesn't he wish he had? Rourke plays Randy Ram, a pro wrestler on the last thread at the tip of the end of the line. Then he gets a heart attack. His "love interest" is a stripper played by Marisa Tomei. I gotcher courageous performance right cheer. At 44 years of age she grinds it out on stage nipple rings flashing. Then she plays her straight scenes without makeup showing facial lines and the honest weariness of a career way down the slippery slope. This is guts. 4 thumbs in both eyes.

2006 Domaine Alfred Goss Creek Central Coast Pinot Noir $14: Buying another bottle of wine full of bad signals(Central Coast Pinot is a bad idea) from a region that is trying to get in alignment with its terroir (Paso should focus on Rhone varietals) and from a vendor that has a W-L record close to the Detroit Lions, is reckless. Like casting Mickey Rourke in a small screen film. The local Wine Cask outlet has an irresistable sales staff who either have bad palates or no say in what they are told to sell. However, this wine is a step in the right direction for this store. The wine is absolutely rough over the falls [ed. the first sip]. tBoW wonders if these vines grow alongside bramble bushes. The acid is too mean to be simply volatile. It is throat constricting, phlegm cutting. The fruit is there and eventually wins out after 40 minutes of air. Like Randy Ram there is a drop of hope even though things keep going wrong. Is this Domaine Alfred Pinot Noir worth the wait? Not really even at this reduced price. But picking this wine to go on sale is a step in the right direction for the store. 14.5%

It is a very good weekend when jazz at the Hollywood Bowl is followed by visiting art studios in Topanga Canyon. The show at the bowl was better than anticipated. Women artists dominated on stage and in the studios. At the jazz festival Esperanza Spalding, the 24 y.o. singing bassist, was the most anticipated "find". But, who knew about Anat Cohen the Israeli wunderkind on saxophone and clarinet who was musically matched by her trumpet blowing diva hermana, Tanya Darby. The two "stars in the making" fronted Cosby's annual patchwork group of local pros elevating what is usually a fairly ordinary performance to unexpected heights. Esperanza Spalding proved to be the up and coming star every bit the young and fresh artist as the pre-buzz had it. The day of music usually has a couple dead spots threaded within the typically strong early lineup. Not this year. Where we feared an ordinary performance, instead we found Jack Sheldon and his old dude big band ripping the classics followed by Pete Escovedo with the rhythm section worthy of NASCAR. However, just when we were certain the bar would be lowered Wallace Roney channeled Mile Davis as he and his band recreated Kind of Blue to a rapt audience. [ed. click on link for Ed Bradley's video tribute] It was the final unexpected highlight and simply could not be followed. And it was not. A superb day.

Naturally, we brought wine. tBoW has refined the wine strategy for a day experiencing great jazz [ed. with an assist from Dotoré hello]. We have learned not to bring highly nuanced wines because there is just too much competition from the performers, the dueling entourages (Jamie Fox and his we-do-crew vs. Hef and the Ikki twins), not to mention the usual neighborly distractions, for a great Pinot Noir or Barolo. The right wines are summer styles mixing Rosés and light fizzy concoctions with a bright white and a medium weight Rhone style red. Here is what we came up with.

2008 Chateau de Rouét Rosé Cuvée Reservée Tradition $7 (in the split): Easily the best Rosé of this summer. But it is early. Plenty of acid with peach and pear flavors. Dark-ish salmon color. Mineral quality. Subtle and balanced. Absolutely outstanding and a major U20 winner. The Anat Cohen wine.

NV Bernard Rondeau Buguey Rosé Sparkling Wine $15: Contrasts perfectly with the FRV100. As fruity and seductive as is the FRV100 this pink labeled beauty is like Jane Russell to Marilyn Monroe. More acid, some spine without losing any of the curvaceousness. tBoW says it is a mistake not to bottle these wines in magnums only. The Esperanza Spalding wine. 8.5%

2006 Domaine St Andre de Figuiere Reserve Delphine $27: Bright acidic 100% Vermentino purchased at Palate Food+Wine. Excellent dry white wine imported by Paul Young. More minerals with bracing acids. Loved it. The Tanya Darby wine.

2007 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs $12: Another Palate purchase. Imported by Peter Weygandt. Steve G has picked out a fabuloso U20 all-star lineup for summer. This Rhone blend features the favorite tBoW lineup, i.e., Syrah-Grenache-Mourvedre. Rich color, great ripe fruit, full bodied while staying medium weight. Another seductive drink that matches all food items and satisfies throughout. Bottled unfiltered. The Kind of Blue wine. 14.5%

And the Topanga tour? Always a treat seeing what the local very talented artists like Susan Haskell and Farideh Azed are doing with glass. The canyon offers vistas and sights we would never guess were up the hill and down the road.

Good night Granca.

As though there were no red wines for hot days and warm nights summertime is allegedly for fresh white wines and sparkling fruity wines like Moscato d'Asti. NOT. There are beefy and manly pinks and there are also Pinot Noir and Beaujolais that work in the 80s at 8:00. Sometimes you even find a 21 year old memory on your table in front of you. Here are several of da kine.

2007 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone $14: tBoW does not see pink wine from this mainline Rhone producer so we had to give it a try. Mostly Grenache and Syrah. Alcohol in the nose and mouth (level is a bit high for pink) but plenty of fruit. Reminds me of the 2006 St Andre. 13.5%

2006 Trenel Beaujolais $11: tBoW reviewed this almost a year and half ago so old habits must run deep. It is still a winner. An import from the mysterious Robert Chadderdon. Delicious Gamay fruit in excellent balance. Not showing much age 16 months down the line. Quite tasty. Serve with a slight chill. Works with all kinds of summer meals from burgers to pasta salad. Also excellent value. 12.5%

Giacomo Bologna Brachetto d'Acqui "Braida" $25: Looks like a Piemonte label because it is another one of those fizzy summer red sparklers from Barolo land. We got to know the style at the recent 100x summer tasting. This one is a bit more sophisticated than the Icardi which is not to say it is nay better, especially for another $8. Nevertheless, it is delightful. Strawberry pop with a bit more kick from the flavors, not the alcohol which is perfectly light beer level. Buy it instead of the $17 Icardi? Not likely but no regrets. 5.5%

Chateau Saint Pierre Cotes de Provence Tradition $14: tBoW recalls buying Freddie Cannon's Palisades Park when he thought it was Johnny Horton's Battle of New Orleans. Same serendipitous confusion here. Thought this was another St something from Provence. Wonderfully lean Rosé with plenty of melon flavor and just enough spine to make it serious. Good value for a very light salmon color fine wine. Like Palisades Park; not a mistake at all. 13%

1988 Leoville Las Cases $33 (on release): Dotoré pulled this Super Second Bordeaux from the recesses of his cellar. There are 5 first growth in Bordeaux, none from St Julie. Leoville Las Cases is the premier wine from that district. 21 years old and fresh as a daisy. Has the distinct Bordeaux pencil lead nose and dried cranberry flavors. Red brick color heavy on the red. Perfectly stored and in outstanding condition. The tBoW team realizes Cabernet Sauvignon is the lone varietal that can span continents in style and recognition. Not that Napa can produce a Cabernet Sauvignon exactly like this one BUT at least the chracteristics are distinctly similar. Wonderful wine. A midsummer treat on a Sunday evening outdoors. "11% to 13%" (per the label- how quaint)

Becky Wasserman is choosing and Russell Hone is pouring Red Burgundies. Not only do you get to try great wine, you also get to hear great stories and enjoy a couple of well spent hours. This entry continues coverage of the Woodland Hills Wine Company tasting of Becky Wasserman Selections. tBoW covered the whites, pinks and sparklers in the previous entry.

While Becky staffed the white and pink flight her husband Russel Hone [ed. greeting us above] handled the Red Table. The wines were all very good. What was really special was how the wines became better as we moved up the ladder...really better.

2007 Saladin Cotes-du-Rhone Loi $15.30: Red purple color. Thick but not quite 30W motor oil. Stinky nose. 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 5% Bourboulenc. The 2007 vintage in Rhone was notably HUGE. Should we be drinking the 06 Rhones if we are put off by the big forward fruit? Not with this wine. It is big but not TOO big. 60% Grenache, 20% each Syrah and Mourvedre. Yummy rich flavors. Would be nice to compare with something similar from Tablas Creek. A top quality U20 wine. 13%

2007 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Les Trois Souers $12: This is NOT a Wasserman wine but I thought I might mention it here as a typical example of the rich and fruity and very California-like 07 Rhone vintage. The color is inky black purple. Weight is very thick. Dotoré decribes the 07 Rhone vintage as "this year's vintage of the century". A big shouldered wine at a very good U20 price. Plenty ripe if not overripe. 14.5%

2007 Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru $37.80: Spicy peppery nose especially for French Pinot Noir. Fruity wine but still "light on its feet like it should be." [ed. credit that to WHWC staff David Russell] 13.5%

2006 Bachelet Cote-de-Nuits Villages $30.60: Funky gamey nose. Love it. Will take several years. Structured but ultimately simple. Slightly tannic. Raises issues about where you might best spend your sheckles since it is a village wine. More on this coming up. 13%

2006 Lignier-Michelot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Bertin $39.60: Now we in da good shit. We are told by the very knowledgable Mr. Russell that Lignier is a young winemaker based out of Morey St Denis with vintages beginning with the millenium. One acquires Burgundy vineyards in only three ways: inheritance, marriage or oodles of cash. David points out this is an AC wine [ed. quality wine produced in a superior region but not that superior] that combines fruit from two vineyards formerly bottled separately. This wine is striking on presentation. Lots of funk, skunkweed, and spice. Some call it forest floor but I believe that applies when the aromas are more integrated and maybe not so rough. Gevry often makes this impression on tBoW. This is brawny stuff. On second pour it shows sweetness and ripeness. Excellent effort. 13%

2006 Burguet Gevery-Chambertin Place des Lois $54: Bowled us over. We like it mucho when there is a wine that is simply stunning, truly special. It reinforces our belief that wine can be magnificent, delivering stimuli beyond a good buzz. This is that wine tonight. Sublime. Caramel nose. SImply beautiful. Pure Pinot Noir flavors. Delicate, balanced, showy without being a show off. This is where great Barolo meets great Burgundy. Right here with this wine. This also solves the sheckles dilemma. Why spend $30 for a village wine when you can spend $40 for a grand effort like the Lignier. But if you are crossing the threshold for a very nice and exotic wine like Lignier then you may as well go to $55 and buy something that will seduce your senses and knock your socks off...gently and soothingly. Turn in my U20 card. We bought it. [ed. turns out this was a very good price since Internet searches showed prices 20% higher] 13%

We close with a photo of an anonymous taster chilling in front of Paul Smith's Wall-o'-Wine.

November is LA's finest month. What people really care about in this town is the weather. And November is perfectly balanced. The sky is clear and brilliant every day. It rarely rains. The air is fresh, even crisp. Temps range between mid 70s to mid 80s when the sun is out dropping to the high 40s low 50s at night. So when the Yankees finally put the Phillies away it's like a big so what. Wasn't today just beautiful? Didja ride your bike-go surfing-hiking-play goff? Or just walk around the Venice boardwalk or Abbot Kinney or Santee Alley or East LA?

As we prepare our wine list for Thanksgiving we report on recent bottles tasted we will not be offering the day of the Bird.

1998 Rostaing La Landonne $60 (from Kermit Lynch way back when): Took it to Saddlepeak Lodge, the venerable "game dining" house hidden away in the Calabasas hills. That place is undergoing a needed overhaul. They are serving meals besides elk and ostrich! But seriously, the sommelier is 34 y.o Josh Buckner and the chef is 26 y.o. Adam Horton. The place is still filled with moose and antelope heads, even a water buffalo. Saddel Peak has always been the perfect place to take some venerable wines for the ambience alone. These days you might say it is even necessary to tote in while Josh gets his "old world" list together. The list he inherited is from another era when Napa cabs and big Bordeaux tickets ruled. Josh's solution to clear 'em out is put them on sale at 75% off the biggies and Cost plus $10 on everything else. To find a deal on the big discount items you still have to crave a Cain Five 1997 Cabernet. We do not so we brought our own and were treated very nicely. Very nicely. This is the last of a stash. Last tasted and noted in tBoW in 2007. Very funky nose suggesting brettanomyces. Still young and dark. With 90 minutes time it opened to show pepper and nice Syrah fruit. I would not call it a baby but it does seem to need some time to blow off. 13%

1996 Parusso Barolo Bussia Vigne Munie $83: Reviewed earlier this year. Here it is again. It is still one of the perfect bottles of Barolo from a very very good vintage. Color showing some brick. Cherry flavors. Quince? Has the Italian spine (acid). We reflect on how common there is the presence of sharp acids in Italian red wines. White wines too. It does take some acclimation but we do generally like the style. 13%

1996 Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco Cantina Vignaioli ~$40: Color is brick red brown. The first swallow brings a minty blast. Almost like a mouthwash. Makes us think how Barolo/Nebbiolo seems tobe naturally rustic. Unlike Burgundy/Pinot Noir, which seems to be naturally delicate and elegant, Barolo develops into a refined wine but it almost always starts rough, diffident, ornery. As it ages and comes together it can become learned, acquiring refinement. Or it can stay a farmer's wine from a magical region. Sophistication does not come easily to Barolo wines. And Barbaresco is the sister region, less powerful but with equal potential to please or make one wonder what went wrong. This is a rustic wine that remains that way. The fruit fades within a couple hours. Is this a cooperative wine? It does seem that way. I found this quote after I wrote the previous comment. From a website "Wines very full in body, that could be a bit cleaner and fresher." 13.5%

Holidays are here. tBoW is getting ready for a big Xmas day party. Touring local wineries today. Here is my holiday bling collection courtesy of a Downtown LA vendor. Have to make a shopping stop there next week. Here are the wines bringing holiday cheer.

2005 Fitou Bel Armant Chateau Champ des Souers $15: This may be the third time tBoW has reviewed this wonderful little Languedoc/Corbieres wine from Beck Wasserman. Toffee nose, soft, vanilla, fruity. Balanced well. Blends Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre. Just very pleasant and completely enjoyable. 13.5%

2006 Domaine des Croix Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes $39: An perfect example of when it is time to break the U20 barrier. A Becky Wasserman Selection by the winemaker for Camille Giroud, David Croix. Les Bressandes is one of the great under-the-radar Burgundy premier cru vineyards. This wine is made by an under-the-radar young and upcoming winemaker who handles it beautifully. This is his eponymous label. The dopey phrase iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind although it probably has no application to Burgundy. Having said that [ed. apologies to Larry David but honestly we have been busting over-used and convoluted "phrasing" for decades; consider "unchartered", "there you go", "if you will" and worst of the worst, like nails dragging across a chalkboard - what's that? - "IT IS WHAT IT IS"! As Dotorè insists, no it isn't.] the wine is focused with a cherry-ish fruit core. Very few feral flavors or aromas, light on tannins, showing polish and skill tBoW picked it off a WHWineCo mailer - and since we bought it blind - this proves the wisdom of having a local wine store you can count on. 13%

2003 Domaine Maxime Chomel Crozes Hermitage Sassenes $23: Hermitage is one of the great vineyards in the Rhone. Crozes is the step-bother, much larger with many wines from the collection of secondary vineyards. This wine has lots to recommend; hand picked, 330 cases, 100% Syrah from old vines. This wine is a bit dirty right away. Is it Bret? Probably not but it is tannic and rustic just the same. Black red color. Syrah bended with Marsanne/Rousanne which gives some sweetness. Raspberries. Quaint. 13.5%

2006 Michel Sarrazin Givry Champs Lalot $20: Strong vanilla on the front palate. Gaminess, creamy flavors. Light to medium weight. Gentlewine for gentle men and women. Givry is one of the lesser appellations in Burgundy, in the the Cote Challonais; a value region for a broker who knows what they want. A North Berkeley Wine pick. They pick the barrels and blend the juice under the producers' label but it is an NBW wine. Very nice. 13%

2008 Evesham Wood Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $18: This Oregon winery is in the southern end of the Willamette Valley near Salem. We have had some wonderful and some ordinary wines from EW. This is in the latter group. We would have liked to have been impressed but were not. Flavors are nice enough. It is just that we can think of enough other wines we could have for the price point or less (see Fitou and Sarrazin). In fact, price point is an issue generally with Oregon Pinot Noir. Our experience is the best values are between $30 and $40. Of course, you could write the same for Burgundy. 13%

Happy Hannukah!