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About Cotes de Beaune

This page contains an archive of all entries posted to No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene in the Cotes de Beaune category. They are listed from oldest to newest.

Cotes de Nuits is the next category.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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Cotes de Beaune Archives

August 3, 2007

Good 'n Stank-eee!

french-feet-2.jpg Folks who love pretty, floral and delicate may not be enchanted by this entry. If you like chintz, peacocks, and the scent of lavender then you should stop reading NOW. This entry is for people who appreciate the phrase "it smelled like a Frenchman's toes"!! which is ripe ripe ripe cheese for gourmands like us.

stinky-cheese-1.jpgIf you are someone who appreciates the path less traveled, or who ascribes to the maxim "I will try anything twice because I may not like it the first time" then the following may satisfy your hunger for something different.

In wine tasting there often comes a point when one's allegiance switches from cabernet - which along with chardonnay, are the two wines on which most if not all Cali snobs cut (inked?) their teeth - to pinot noir. I am not suggesting that novice wine aficionados inevitably develop a taste for pinot noir (we do). That would acknowledge that pinot noir is capable of complexity that cabernet simply cannot attain (it is with the caveat there is always an exception like the 1982 Mouton Rothschild). Some folks never manage to leave the cabernet camp. I am not suggesting that pinot noir is the summit of wine tasting (having fallen from this summit, like the Beatles' disenchantment with the Maharishi). In fact, it may be that one must pass through the cabernet and the pinot stages in order to find palate freedom. Forget the higher level innuendi. For some, cab and pinot are like Alcatraz - an iconic tour but I wouldn't want to live there.

Once these stages have been completed it is likely even greater pleasure will be experienced when one returns to tasting the world's two most popular fine wine grapes.

Let's talk about the two pinot noir wines I had the other night at Saddlepeak Lodge. They are Burgundies. Some folks like to say French Burgundies but that is redundant isn't it? The good Dottoré dottore-burging.jpg is usually quick to point out that someone who has tasted enough premium burgs and California pinots (such as himself) can always pick out the domestic from the international wine. I agree and these two pinot noirs from top level Burgundy vineyards, made by top level winemakers, and bottled by two premium producers prove that point. Nothing from Cali (or anywhere else) tastes like this. It does not get any better on a wine-for-wine basis. Here they are.

1999 Comtes Lafon Volnay-Santenots-Du Milieu: Big fruit, strong tannins, all on the nose. Dark red color with tinge of purple. Big flavor, not massive, not overwhelming by any count. Expertly balanced. Solid fruit core. Luscious, even toned and voluptuous (think Heidi Klum or Gabby Reece). Remained like this for 2 hours. Never changed. The Derek Jeter of red Burgundy.

1990 Comtes de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny: As I was saying about stinky cheese...this wine had a funky nose. Not barnyard. Not le merde. Young Runki San runki-san-burg-nite.jpgnailed it - truffles. Now I have had truffles on eggs (didn't get it), and on pasta in Italy (umm good). It is difficult to get to know truffles because they are so hard to come by good 'n fresh. And forget tasting them in truffle oil or any other truffle product that can be purchased off the shelf. I once had an all-truffle meal at Valentino's in LA and never got it. I don't eat there anymore. But this 1990 Chambolle was truffles on the nose, truffles in the mouth, truffles all night long. If you can appreciate exotic, slightly dank and stank-eee aromas, and flavors, then you know what we were tasting. Sounds gross? Made us dingy. Like catnip. Color was red brick. Even perimeter. Consistent flavor. The wine will go another decade I would guess. 13.5%. A very unusual wine for Mr. <$20. As memorable and as spectacular as the 1995 Dehlinger Reserve noted in our first entry. Except that wine was definitely barnyard (i.e., poopy).

A word on great wines: One of the most memorable wines I ever tasted was an early 80s La Landonne. I forgot the producer although I could find out by asking the man who brought the wine to the holiday tasting about 15 years ago. I can tell you I instantly made a note to capture La Landonne wines whenever the right conditions prevailed. The aroma and flavor of this wine that was probably 15 years old at the time? Sour buttermilk. Sounds disgusting and I would never drink sour buttermilk; however, in the glass, red and perfect, it was absolutely strange and wonderful.la-landonne-vyd.jpg
La Landonne is expensive. After all it is the most famous and revered vineyard in the Cote Rotie. The vines are 100% syrah and the slope is 45°! There are only a couple producers who bottle wines from this vineyard. Sometimes I wonder how collectors who pursue trophy wines would like an aged La Landonne from a great vintage. Any perfectly aged bottle would cost as much as but not more than what one pays for a "must-have" new release Screaming Eagle.

Mike-waits.jpgGreat wines should be enjoyed with a great meal in a great dining room with terrific service. We made sure all conditions would be met by sharing our wines at Saddlepeak Lodge. Our server was the peripatetic Mike who has his own blog speedmonkey.com. Gary, I mean Mike, was ably assisted by Terry the manager, formerly of the Wolverine Marching Band. Saddlepeak is the finest restaurant in the Conejo-Calabasas micro-region. They are famous for game. They did not disappoint. Thank you guys.

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March 16, 2008

Four Reds including a Very Old Russian

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I really should tease the reader before getting to the Russian wine...but what the hey. The first wine is from the Republic of Georgia which is an ancient land with tremendous pride. I am posting the flag in case someone should get the wrong impression.

kindzmarauli.jpgKindzmarauli Kahketi Region NV$16: The wine was a gift from an associate(Georgian NOT Russian of course) who wanted to impress with a wine from the motherland. "I guarantee you have never had this wine". I did find it on the web as Georgian Royal Collection Kindzmarauli, naturally semi-sweet wine, 100% Saperavi varietal, from the Kindzmarauli microzone of the Kvareli area in the Kakheti region, Republic of Georgia. It has a distinguishable varietal bouquet, intense aroma, harmonious and velvety flavor". It is from an historical wine growing region in Georgia's Tusheti mountains and it is semi-sweet. 11% alcohol which is always commendable. The important point is that the sugar content of the wine is not enhanced. Is it late-harvested like a Primitivo? mastodon.jpgDried on straw mats in the Tushetian sun like an Amarone ? A wikipedia entry claims Georgia is the "birthplace of wine" and the oldest wine producing region in Europe. Hold that correcting thought...Georgian wine apparently has neolithic roots (~7,000 years). We tasted this wine in granite goblets served with braised Mastodon. The missus did a nice job on the hairy relative of the elephant, a little tough from the retreating glaciers. The wine gave semi-sweet cheer to a generally hostile environment as we huddled around a fire shielded in a Kodiak bear's jawbone. Not a terribly long finish in a terribly long night. Yzumitelno!!

2004 Chinon Les Chiens-Chiens $15: Bought at K&L Wine Merchant. Cabernet Franc from the best known region in France for this grape. These wines stand in sharp contrast to California Cabernet Franc which is the source for my cab franc wine knowledge. The most famous cab franc is Bordeaux's Cheval Blanc which Miles downs with a burger in Sideways. [ed. Link goes to Miles dissing a Paso Robles cab franc!]. The vintage was 1961 which furthers the inside joke to wine snobs. Chinon is in the Loire Valley southwest of Paris (see map link below). I am learning these Old World Chinon wines are quite different than New World versions. California Cab Franc wines often a clear bittersweet chocolate flavor like 65% cacao bar. Chinon wines are more like 90% bittersweet. Almost dirty, earthy, dry. The fruit is there but needs time to emerge. I will not open these wines (I have a few in the cellar) until June. With BBQ skirt steak. Expect to be tasting more Chinons in 2008. 13.5%

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2005 Chateau Champ des Soeurs Fitou Bel Amant $15: I have not run out of wines to review. Yes, this wine was reviewed in September. Six months later it still rocks. Now I have the labels. A Becky Wasserman Selection which is always a good place to begin. 60% Grenache then Syrah then Mourvedre. Yummm-meeee. Wonderful balance. On the flavor spectrum think of the Fitou as the mid point between jammy Cal wines and dry Chinon wines. We liked this one a lot and will return to get more.

f_cotes_de_beaune.gif2002 Beaune Vignes-Franches Premier Cru Domaine Chateau de Chorey~$35
: Wasn't this special? Premier Cru vineyard outside the town of Beaune. Chateau de Chorey is a top producer. This is Red Burgundy at its price/quality best. Delicate nose. Cherry and game-y flavors. Light to middle in eight. All tannins resolved and gone. Showing very nicely for 5 years. Just perfect with the glazed plum chicken. 13.5%. Not a U20 but a very worthwhile O20 that defines wine intelligence. Excellent wine.

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June 27, 2008

Palate in Glendale "they nailed it!!"

Call me a snob. I think the best dining on the West Coast is in San Francisco (notable exception Bashan in Montrose, Lou in Hollywood). In LA fine dining is first and foremost measured by how costly is the dinner (lower cost = worse fare). I also believe that fine dining in LA invariably comes in two flavors: Italian or the mega-steak house. Given a choice I will take Italian any day over the Mortons and Mastros gang (especially local fare like Giovanni in Woodland Hills). Today's steakhouses are modern day cafeterias. They all serve the same stuff essentially the same way. Given a choice I will take LA's international choices (Chinese in Monterey Park, Mexican - Tamayo - in East LA, Korean in mid-Wilshire, D' Cache - Argentine - in Burbank) every time over asparagus, spuds with lobster and a New York I can burn myself on my home grill. [ed. Dined at Cube in West Hollywood and found it very Frisco-like in an LA way so things are looking up around here...now if could just convince restaurateurs to serve something other than Cabernet and Chardonnay...some are, some are...but not enough!]

And Baghdad by the Bay? You can begin with wine lists at so many of the City's restaurants. They blow our predictable burg away. tBoW has covered this angle before. If you want to push in my big snobby nose on this subject just click here and read this column and show me something, anything comparable to a Beaujolais Cru celebratory list from LA.

I just want to make it clear why I am so excited that a top notch, inventive, comfortable dining establishment with an enchanting wine program is within driving distance of my hood. The place is called Palate and it is in Glendale [ed. back entrance to the wine store pictured] down the street from the "architectural steakhouse", the new Americana mall.

The chef at Palate is Octavio Becerra who worked side-by-side with Joachim Splichal. That's the foodie story. But what about the wine? We have Sommelier Steve Goldun who was singled out on this blog when he was tBoW's unofficial wine guru. Steve knows wine. And, best of all, I learned long ago when he was prowling the aisles at Woodland Hills Wine Co. that my palate matches well with his.

It has long been the that, as a consumer, you will enjoy wine that much more if you can find a decent store with great selection and fair prices. But you may consider yourself very lucky if you can find someone on the floor who knows your palate and would never put anything in your hands that would not slide over your tongue, slip down your gullet and bring a smile to your lips. Enter Steve Goldun.

Steve knows value...loves Burgundy...and sells wine out of the retail space in the large and roomy tasting bar, shop and party area. I don't know whether to yell or wet myself. [ed. tip - let Steve choose your wines].

We took a bunch of photos of the place. The wine reviews are compiled from two dinners a week or so apart.

reverdysancerreterredemaimbray05.jpg2007 Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rosé <$20: Pinot noir fruit, extra dry, 12%. Dry dry dry. Tons of acid and just enough fruit to keep me from whistling involuntarily. I like it. My dining pal don't. Here is a fun link about the winery and owners.

laspinetta moscato07.jpg2007 La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti Biancospina $16: "He bottles this every 60 days". And it tastes that fresh. I love Moscato in the summer! Of course he carries it. It is like buttah, ice cream. So fresh and fruity and spritzy. Mind you, we are not asking. Steve just KNOWS what should be had next. 5.5%

dirler1.jpg2004 Dirler Sylvaner Vielle Vignes $20: Stony, bitter, bright. Classic Alsatian, a region that makes wines in a style I do not especially favor. However, we cannot deny this wine is very well made and absolutely terroir driven. One more sign of the ban on Stepford Wines on Steve Goldun's list.

Petillant_Brut_DH.jpg2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Brut Petillant $24: Here is the sommelier's skill. Joe Dressner says one should avoid sparkling wine from Vouvray altogether [ed. click here to learn where is Vouvray]. Well Mr. Dressner may be right about alot but he is wrong about Vouvray sparklers when it comes to this wine. This is delicious. Yeasty like a fine champagne. Golden orange color. Lemon fruit, minerals, long toasty finish. What a great bottle of wine. Chenin Blanc - world's most underrated varietal? [ed. couple months ago you would have shouted Torrontes] Spectacular. I ordered it right away to kick off the second evening dinner. Robert Chadderton selection.

Haut_Lieu_Sec_2007.jpg2006 Domaine Huet Haut-Lieu Sec Vouvray $20: The non sparkling version. Super clean nose, actually a very faint whiff of bleach. Now that is aerifaction. Serve cold and it can cleanse a palate between courses. Went great with the salmon rillete (in mason jar). The Wine Doctor has an excellent post on the wines from Huet including these two. 13%

Alina (near-perfect waiter) suggested a sampler of cheese, crostini, salumi and the duck pate. We also had an assortment of green and brown olives. Loved it all. But my dining pal and I practically fell out of chairs and went hand-to-hand over the little cup of balsamic sauce. The consistency and appearance of apple butter but the flavor of fine balsamic. Tasted good on everything. Even plain off the knife!!

LambruscoDiSorbara-terreals.jpg2006 Fiorini Lambrusco Grasparosso di Castelvetro $12: Suggested by our near perfect Alina who otherwise was on the money with every other tout. Lambrusco is red, not even close to pink, and frothy as in frizzante. Must be an acquired taste because neither of us liked it. Now she did recommend it with the duck pate stored in teeny mason jars. And it did work with that but...nah.

We did have a couple of reds for dinner #2 that must be mentioned.

trenel morgon.jpg2006 Trenel Cote du Py Morgon $20: Served with the pickled cherries which was purr-fick. Some tannins, rich flavors. IGTY liked it a lot. I brought up the point that since IGTY loves William Selyem it figures he would like the 2005/06 Beaujolais wines. He gets his red wines from the local purveyor who specializes in Santa Barbara and Paso products which are actually too overblown for my taste (Tablas Creek the exception). Of course, this is just part of my plan to get him to bust out more of his W/S wines stored in my cellar. The Trenel wines from both vintages are truly wonderful. Reviewed in other tBoW posts [ed. June 30 07, October 1 07, January 5 08, and April 12 08] and still worth searching out. 13%

redortier.gif2003 Redortier Gigondas $30: This knocked everyone off their seats. Half Grenache, half Syrah; a very good blend as a rule. Pays off here. Smoky and fruity, dark dark cherries and chocolate. Transcendent. We took a few home with us. Another Chadderton selection. 13%

The lesson is if you want something very close to the flavors of Burgundy with all the finesse and one quarter the cost look to the south and seek out the Beaujolais Cru wines.

gravonia 98.jpg1998 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Blanco $34: A risky wine and a find at ten years. Nose and flavors are chalky, reserved, dry, not much acid left. I have never been a fan of Spanish white wines. Unless they are from the Basque country which of course Steve has in the store. I purchased a white and pink Basque wine but did not finish my pour of Gravonia. My dining pal (DP) liked it. 12%

javiller02.jpg2002 Javillier-Guyot Savigny les Beaune Blanc $34: I know this was the wine of the evening because it still lit me up after the first four tastes. Stewed or sauteed apples. Pippin apples when you break them open and stick your nose in there says DP. This French chardonnay can never be mistaken for a new world wine. It is never even close. This is toasty in flavor, golden in color. Not tasting the butterscotch...yet. Could get there. But I would drink it now. Great depth of fruit. Mmm-mmm.

Served with the canneloni in fresh tomato sauce that was closer to finely chopped salsa than sauce. Tomatoes worked with the White Burg. Also gnocchi with green peas and morels. A very earthy dish that complemented the toastiness.

Banyuls_blanc.jpgTry wait. One more wine.

2006 Domaine du Mas Blanc Banyuls Blanc $30: Normally I would say absolutely no to a fortified wine after the parade that came across our table. But that would be like saying no to golf lessons from Phil "the thrill" Mickelson. Or poker lessons from Daniel Negranu.negreanu_i.jpg Or Jennifer Tilly.
This pale salmon Provencal wine was so distinctive. Briny nose even in the first taste. Then honey and fruit, oatmeal with brown sugar. tilly-jennifer-02.jpgOn the second evening it was all mocha and coffee, caramel and apples. Made from three different grapes. 25 % "Muscat d'Alexandrie", 70% "Grenache blanc", 5% "Malvoisie (Tourbat)". Here is the link to the label. Charming. Not everyone liked it as much. 16.5%.

We took a 40 minute walk.

Here is the very positive LA Times review from June 5 2008.

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July 13, 2008

King's tasting de-thrones Burgundy

I am done with (red) Burgundy. Just like Barolo. It was bound to happen. No more fussing, hoping, expecting great but getting yecch.

The Mouse-man tasting was held at Palate in Glendale. Great food and service. Too bad the two 1996 Burgundies could not come close to measuring up. Let's get to it.
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2006 Schafer-Frohlich Riesling Spatlese Nahe
$26: Halb-trocken from the Nahe. What is a halb-trocken? "Invented by the Germans when they realized the world did not like their wine style". It means drier than one would have expected from traditional wine making. And this bottle is perfectly balanced, crispy like an ice-ee with caramel notes. Simply delicious. The job was to waken the palates of the tasters and that was accomplished.
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2007 Bandol Blanc La Bastide Blanche
$20: Last minute fill-in for a white Rhone that did not show well. Composed of Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc. Smoky, uncomplicated, good pick to go with lightly sauteed squid as we waited for fois gras and the next wine.
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1983 Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes
~$500 online: The king of wines for the guest of honor. Petrol on the nose. Smell the alcohol which is listed as 11% to 14%. First time I noticed that. Dried apricots keep emerging stronger and stronger as the wine opens over the entire tasting. A monster wine. A finish so long we had to drink copious red wines to wash it out. Having it as the third wine may have been a sequencing error. Just too big. King says it is "leaking out my mouth". Thick, viscous with a core I could only describe as atomic. "A baby" said sommelier Steve Goldun. "This s why I have to be an attorney so I can buy cases of this wine" says son of tBoW. Wine of the evening by a long shot.
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1996 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
~$150: Pee Yooo!! Now that is the goux de merde also known as barnyard. As tBoW has noted before French pinots can be stank-eee! The fruit is there but having trouble finding its way out of the lavatory. "Ripe diaper" says one taster. Brick red color, beets when it starts to lose the poo and show itself. Intense, dark. It never comes around. I saw a note online that says it needs 3 hours to open. Where was that guy? A doctor's office? In line at DMV? This and the next wine close the book on red burgundy for me.
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1996 Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St Jacques
~$150: The unofficial Gran Cru of Gevrey. "The perfect facing SE slope" says SG as he launches into an expert topographical delineation of the hill and its vineyards including the ideally situated Clos St Jacques. [ed. read more about Clos St Jacques here] Shoe polish on the nose. Could use some shoe polish to scrape the shit right off my shoes. Another poopster deluxe. Tight. Fruit is there but having trouble making it over the vineyard wall surrounding this precious acreage. Is it on the decline? 13.5%

These two burgs did not show well. They were open at least three hours and never came around. Various tasters online noted 3 to 5 hours required to reveal their magic. Call me impatient. I am done with aging red burgundy. Of course this position was roundly pooh-poohed (appropriately I suppose); tBoW was subjected to torrents of abuse when he declared Williams Selyem produced more consistent wines. I asked the sommelier to name the best domestic pinot producer and he immediately replied...that's right, W-S. Tidbits from the table included 1996 is a tough and tight vintage; in the 90s favorite vintages are 1993 and 1999; and a preference noted for Nuits St George over Chambertin wines.

cornas TL 01.jpg2001 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas Coteaux $40: Shut yo mouf tasty. Yummy. BBQ and bricquets backed with plenty of fruit. More new world than old but still enough old world not to be confused for a Paso Robles effort. 13%

Rostaing LL.jpg1998 Rostaing La Landonne ~$200: A great wine in an off vintage proving the point about quality winemakers being robust to less than ideal weather conditions. White pepper on the nose. Knitted together nicely (i.e., balanced wine). Winemaker is known for low acid wines. Pleasing in every way. Tanzer writes "deceptively accessible". Showing so much better than the burgs. Probably best of the rest after d'Yquem. Reviewed on this bog in December 2007.

Arnaldo SdM 01.gif2001 Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino de Montefalco $50: Umbrian powerhouse made from grapes only grown in the region...except for a few grown in Washington state!! Mouse tout and a good one as per usual. tBoW detects brownies in the flavor profile. Baked, doughy, dark chocolate, cranberries. Only a wine with this kind of size and power could cap a tasting with this lineup. 14%

Retrospectively...Rhone wines never looked better than going head to head with Burgundy. Dotoré thought there were too many wines and too much variety. Perhaps. While these were not U20 wines they helped make the point once again that price and quality do not necessarily go hand in hand [ed. talkin' tBoW mainfesto here]. Baroli and (red) Burgs go to the sidelines. Beaujolais and Rhones step forward.

Consensus held the 1983 d'Yquem stole the show to the surprise of absolutely nobody. After that opinions varied as to the next best wine from the La Landonne to the Cornas to the Nahe Riesling. Steve G opened the 2005 White Dog Syrah from Santa Ynez Larner vineyard which produces some of the highest quality grapes in that region. Too bad the tBoW tasting team was dog meat by this time and thirsting for water and needing to wait a bissel before embarking on the ride home. Which we did.

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July 11, 2009

Independence Day wine report plus Hawaii

sunset bch in June.jpgIndependence Day produces the usual parties, BBQs and libations. July 4th is not necessarily a wine event like, for example, Thanksgiving. Burgers, dogs and potato salad call for robust reds so tBoW expects to see plenty of Cabernets while hoping to encounter some Rhone style wines as well. And if someone should pop the cork on some frothy fruity high acid white wines, well, that makes blowing off fireworks even better. Here is what we tasted over the holiday.

guilhem2007.jpg2007 Moulin de Gassac Guilhem $10: Brought here by Beaune Imports which is an importer to put on the radar. This wine fooled me. It is a traditional regional blend from Mas de Gassac, a Languedoc house notable for its cab wines. This tastes like Cabernet Franc but is a classic southwest France blend of Grenache (the Cab Franc masque), Syrah, Carignagne and CInsault. Somewhat sweet for an old world wine, mild flavors and light weight, almost minty or citric as in orange. MDervin NV.jpgWhich suggests an Argentine Malbec from Maipu. But make no mistake this is not New World style. 2007 is a lighter vintage. The region is ~3000 feet in l'Herault which is rugged country. Nice U20 value wine. 12.5%

NV Michel Dervin Champagne $26: Acquired from K&L. A blend of 80% Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir. Citric, lemon like, good acid. Very nice. Bright and fresh the way we like it. 13%

pertichetta2004.jpg2004 Massa Pertichetta Croatina $25: This bottle comes with pedigree and some buzz as an insider's wine. Local vendor WHWCo sold out of 13 cases in a couple days to "Euros". It is high alcohol with the ripe and rich flavors that must accompany high ethanol wines. Zin-like in flavor from the obscure and once nearly extinct Croatina grape (thus the buzz). Tastes Tuscan but it is actually from a lesser known region north of Piemonte. Not our style but a nice wine nonetheless. 14.5%

P2 PN 07.jpg2007 P2 Pinot Noir Brousseau Vineyard $22: Low production wine made by newcomer under supervision from Brian Loring in Santa Rita Hills. He makes a red, green and blue label signifying different vineyards. This is Chalone AVA which is Monterey. Smoky nose, whiff of bricquets. Hits the upper register and when it opens up it tastes like Pinot Noir. This is lean by Santa Rita Hills PN (while the juice is not SRH the style definitely is)WS Rochioli RibBlk 99.jpg but fat by 2007 Oregon standards. Not the tBoW style but at a slightly more than U20 price it will please many. 14%

1999 Williams Selyem Rochioli River Block ~$100 online: Bologna on the nose, sweet and silky in the mouth. Long finish. Delicate.
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2005 Williams Selyem Weir VIneyard
$56 (on release): Sweet sweet and sweet, deep tomato red color. Vineyard in Mendocino. It appears these guys have to go further and further to find juice to meet the demand. Am I mistaken here? I think I am losing my flavor for WS wines. Maybe it is the summer season. 14%
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2007 Cameron Hughes Los Carneros Pinot Noir Lot 10
$14: Interesting story; these guys are effectively negociants in the tradition of Jadot and xxxxx, buying small lot juice, bottling it under their line(s) and releasing them to market. Light but smoky nose and flavors. Nice enough wine. Easy to take the price. 8000 cases. 14.5%

Due to circumstances beyond our control we spent some time recently in Hawaii. KP charges kealiaCROP.jpgtBoW's Island wine bruddah Kealia Poke (KP) filed this special report.

Hey aloha and here are some tips for where you can find wine in da islands. First, you never know where you are going to run into a Leroy 1986 Mazis Chambertin [ed. online price ~$200]. I sit down for a homey Chinese meal at Little Village in Honolulu's Chinatown near Hotel Street and dis guy next to me pulls that very bottle outta leroymazis1986.jpghis canvas wine tote along with crystal stemware. No kiddin. Lucky me I know da label and he is so impressed he pours me not one but two tastes. Maybe becuz I pointed out 86 was off vintage but even in off vintage Leroy Mazis is going to be ono. Still fruity although past da crest but not slamming me into da reef. You never know bra'. Wow. And da food is incredible at Little VIllage plus dey get own parking lot.

If you traveling to Kauai you may think you got to ship your own bottles over for $175 a case. And maybe I would have agreed dis decision 2 years ago. But no more. The most beautiful island has at least two wine shops where the vinpire can pretty much satisfy wine craving beyond Clos du Bois. In Lihue you get Wine Garden which carries a decent domestic and international selection at fair prices. Ask for Colette. They also carry Kauai-grown cigars rolled in Honduras. If you further north like Princeville or Hanalei you should check out Kilauea Town Market & Deli. Rosie and Stan have assembled a very impressive assortment of California and old world labels. KP was stoked to see the Vermentino and Rose' from l'Uvaggio di Giacomo at $14. Hey, good price anywhere. And great wine too.

So save your bucks to play da Prince golf course or take da trip down Na Pali coast. One more ting - if you like Hawaiian coffee but tink only choice Kona den you should try Wailua coffee from Daga Hawaii. Al roasts and Dan packs. But you gotta pay Noreen. Dis stuff ono grinds and dey ship to you. Aloha buggas!

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September 25, 2009

Becky Wasserman, part 2: the REDS

hubby.jpgBecky Wasserman is choosing and Russell Hone is pouring Red Burgundies. Not only do you get to try great wine, you also get to hear great stories and enjoy a couple of well spent hours. This entry continues coverage of the Woodland Hills Wine Company tasting of Becky Wasserman Selections. tBoW covered the whites, pinks and sparklers in the previous entry.

While Becky staffed the white and pink flight her husband Russel Hone [ed. greeting us above] handled the Red Table. The wines were all very good. What was really special was how the wines became better as we moved up the ladder...really better.

saladinloi06.gif2007 Saladin Cotes-du-Rhone Loi $15.30: Red purple color. Thick but not quite 30W motor oil. Stinky nose. 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 5% Bourboulenc. The 2007 vintage in Rhone was notably HUGE. Should we be drinking the 06 Rhones if we are put off by the big forward fruit? Not with this wine. It is big but not TOO big. 60% Grenache, 20% each Syrah and Mourvedre. Yummy rich flavors. Would be nice to compare with something similar from Tablas Creek. A top quality U20 wine. 13%

lesgrandbois 07.jpg2007 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Les Trois Souers $12: This is NOT a Wasserman wine but I thought I might mention it here as a typical example of the rich and fruity and very California-like 07 Rhone vintage. The color is inky black purple. Weight is very thick. Dotoré decribes the 07 Rhone vintage as "this year's vintage of the century". A big shouldered wine at a very good U20 price. Plenty ripe if not overripe. 14.5%

bizesavignyred07.gif2007 Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru $37.80: Spicy peppery nose especially for French Pinot Noir. Fruity wine but still "light on its feet like it should be." [ed. credit that to WHWC staff David Russell] 13.5%

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2006 Bachelet Cote-de-Nuits Villages
$30.60: Funky gamey nose. Love it. Will take several years. Structured but ultimately simple. Slightly tannic. Raises issues about where you might best spend your sheckles since it is a village wine. More on this coming up. 13%

ligniergevery206.jpg2006 Lignier-Michelot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Bertin $39.60: Now we in da good shit. We are told by the very knowledgable Mr. Russell that Lignier is a young winemaker based out of Morey St Denis with vintages beginning with the millenium. One acquires Burgundy vineyards in only three ways: inheritance, marriage or oodles of cash. David points out this is an AC wine [ed. quality wine produced in a superior region but not that superior] that combines fruit from two vineyards formerly bottled separately. This wine is striking on presentation. Lots of funk, skunkweed, and spice. Some call it forest floor but I believe that applies when the aromas are more integrated and maybe not so rough. Gevry often makes this impression on tBoW. This is brawny stuff. On second pour it shows sweetness and ripeness. Excellent effort. 13%
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2006 Burguet Gevery-Chambertin Place des Lois
$54: Bowled us over. We like it mucho when there is a wine that is simply stunning, truly special. It reinforces our belief that wine can be magnificent, delivering stimuli beyond a good buzz. This is that wine tonight. Sublime. Caramel nose. SImply beautiful. Pure Pinot Noir flavors. Delicate, balanced, showy without being a show off. This is where great Barolo meets great Burgundy. Right here with this wine. This also solves the sheckles dilemma. wallowine.jpgWhy spend $30 for a village wine when you can spend $40 for a grand effort like the Lignier. But if you are crossing the threshold for a very nice and exotic wine like Lignier then you may as well go to $55 and buy something that will seduce your senses and knock your socks off...gently and soothingly. Turn in my U20 card. We bought it. [ed. turns out this was a very good price since Internet searches showed prices 20% higher] 13%

We close with a photo of an anonymous taster chilling in front of Paul Smith's Wall-o'-Wine.

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December 12, 2009

Speaking of wines

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Holidays are here. tBoW is getting ready for a big Xmas day party. Touring local wineries today. Here is my holiday bling collection courtesy of a Downtown LA vendor. Have to make a shopping stop there next week. Here are the wines bringing holiday cheer.

2005 Fitou Bel Armant Chateau Champ des Souers $15: This may be the third time tBoW has reviewed this wonderful little Languedoc/Corbieres wine from Beck Wasserman. Toffee nose, soft, vanilla, fruity. Balanced well. Blends Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre. Just very pleasant and completely enjoyable. 13.5%

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2006 Domaine des Croix Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes
$39: An perfect example of when it is time to break the U20 barrier. A Becky Wasserman Selection by the winemaker for Camille Giroud, David Croix. Les Bressandes is one of the great under-the-radar Burgundy premier cru vineyards. This wine is made by an under-the-radar young and upcoming winemaker who handles it beautifully. This is his eponymous label. The dopey phrase iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind although it probably has no application to Burgundy. Having said that [ed. apologies to Larry David but honestly we have been busting over-used and convoluted "phrasing" for decades; consider "unchartered", "there you go", "if you will" and worst of the worst, like nails dragging across a chalkboard - what's that? - "IT IS WHAT IT IS"! As Dotorè insists, no it isn't.] the wine is focused with a cherry-ish fruit core. Very few feral flavors or aromas, light on tannins, showing polish and skill tBoW picked it off a WHWineCo mailer - and since we bought it blind - this proves the wisdom of having a local wine store you can count on. 13%

chomelcrozes03.jpg2003 Domaine Maxime Chomel Crozes Hermitage Sassenes $23: Hermitage is one of the great vineyards in the Rhone. Crozes is the step-bother, much larger with many wines from the collection of secondary vineyards. This wine has lots to recommend; hand picked, 330 cases, 100% Syrah from old vines. This wine is a bit dirty right away. Is it Bret? Probably not but it is tannic and rustic just the same. Black red color. Syrah bended with Marsanne/Rousanne which gives some sweetness. Raspberries. Quaint. 13.5%

givry06.jpg2006 Michel Sarrazin Givry Champs Lalot $20: Strong vanilla on the front palate. Gaminess, creamy flavors. Light to medium weight. Gentlewine for gentle men and women. Givry is one of the lesser appellations in Burgundy, in the the Cote Challonais; a value region for a broker who knows what they want. A North Berkeley Wine pick. They pick the barrels and blend the juice under the producers' label but it is an NBW wine. Very nice. 13%

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2008 Evesham Wood Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
$18: This Oregon winery is in the southern end of the Willamette Valley near Salem. We have had some wonderful and some ordinary wines from EW. This is in the latter group. We would have liked to have been impressed but were not. Flavors are nice enough. It is just that we can think of enough other wines we could have for the price point or less (see Fitou and Sarrazin). In fact, price point is an issue generally with Oregon Pinot Noir. Our experience is the best values are between $30 and $40. Of course, you could write the same for Burgundy. 13%

Happy Hannukah!

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November 25, 2009

Turkey Day Extravaganza!

bird1.jpgThanksgiving is an extravaganza to be indulged at every age. The day is all about indulgence in your favorite activities. AMC has all the Godfather movies. There are college hoops, college football and the pros. A buncha abundanza. Many folks will make some effort to re-enact or recognize the "first" Thanksgiving. There will be plenty of political talk at the table. Some adult may look at everyone and suggest everyone say what are they thankful for today. Should that happen here is how tBoW will reply [ed. it did, he did].

tashTday091.jpgI am thankful for being alive during an era of wine production that is wonderfully wide ranging in terms of regions and styles. I am thankful the Parker era is finally past. I am thankful that I am living at a time when local wine bars are sprouting like truffles in the fall. I am thankful Dotoré takes my calls and that I have plenty of great friends (IGTY, Mouse, M&J, Large) and family (Mrs. tBow, tBow kindt, the TOs) [ed. Turkey Queen stage left, her creation above] who have good palates and appreciate wine because it is so interesting.

What about the Bird? A partner-in-wine is essential if the guest list will be lengthy [ed. Large partner below]. The T-day meal has become a vinous gauntlet. The only thing missing is Sly Stallone to shoot/punch/explode the corks off the bottles. Yo Pinot! Cut me Mick. G'head. Do it.

Maybe you dined at your sister-in-law's like we did. Did she produce a fat brown bird or two bathed in truffle suffused butter? Stuffed with oysters and cherries? The onlysomelikeithot2.JPG part of the Thanksgiving meal I will concede has gotten out of hand is the license for anyone to make an awful side dish...and serve it. This year it was a candied yam casserole topped with mini marshmallows. Like Billy Wilder's closing line from "Some Like It Hot", when Jack Lemmon pulls off his wig so Joe E. Brown can see he has just proposed to a man in drag Joe E. replies...nobody's perfect.

Here is what got opened.

chasdefereNV.jpgNV Charles De Fere Blanc de Blanc $10: That is correct sir. A U20 champagne. Yeast streams out when the cork is pulled. Acidic, citric but not lemon or lime. Have to go to the flavor wheel. Has a bite. At this price, quality, alcohol level and cachet it is a wedding planners dream. From Du Vin, an outstanding wine shop in West Hollywood. 12%

grangedan06.jpg2006 Domaine Alary La Grange $14: French Rousanne and another U20 winner. Good tannins with soft fruit makes it an easy Old World pick. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler makes it another easy pick for price and quality. 14.5%

seasmoke052.jpg2005 Sea Smoke Southing $50: The big ticket big rep wine of the day. Went so quickly tBoW could to get a second pour! Muscular strong nose. Alcohol is in your face. Extracted fruit. For my palate it is hard to distinguish Santa Rita Hills Syrahs from the Pinots. So excuse me for saying these wines are completely over-rated. There are quite a few other Santa Rita Hills fruit bombs out there less than half the price. Dotoré has a 2001 and a 2002 that will be sampled shortly. Large and tBoW Jr loved it. So call me a curmudgeon. Maybe if I could have gotten that second pour...? 14.7%

amurraysyrah05.jpg2005 Andrew Murray Syrah Roasted Slope Vineyard $30: Speaking of SRH Syrahs here is one of those often touted. Sweet juice. Nicely balanced. So unlike Old World Syrah, i.e., no roasted meats or coffee flavors. Like the other SRH/Central Coast wines best with food. 15%

linnecSS04.jpg2004 Linne Calodo Sticks and Stones $145 in Atlanta restaurant: If you like a big alcohol jammy fruit bomb this is your wine. largeTday09.jpgMatt Trevanian likes non-traditional blends however this is his Rhone style from Paso Robles; 57% Grenache 23% Syrah 20% Mourvedre. In the moth it is still somewhat restrained for a really ripe wine. 15.8%

MAvro06.jpg2006 Palama Mavro Salento $29: Picked this up at 55 Degree Wine shop in Atwater Village in LA. Charcoal nose less pleasant to The Large who likened it closer to paint thinner. However, it was agreed this Southern Italian wine from Puglia was the best with the Bird. Middle weight blend showing rich dense dark berry flavors that contrasted well with the Central Coast wines also strutting their stuff. 80% Negoramaro 20% Malvasia. Special thanks to blog with same interests for the label image! 13.5%

conti85.jpg1985 Conti Boca $40: Score a double win for Italian wines. The Mavro took down the Bird Trophy while this rare and unusual wine took the Wine 'O Day hardware. This wine was contributed by Chef Tash (picut4d above) who learned of it at a Barolo tasting. It is in the northernmost corner of the Piedmont. At 24 years the wine is on the downside although that should not be taken to mean it is "over the hill" or any such diminution. This is sipping wine. It is like a great Barolo made in the style of the Piemontese old masters, think Giacomo Conterno and Rinaldi. Funky muted nose right away that opens for the next hour. Deep red brick color. The wine blends Nebbiolo with a local varietal Vespolina and sometimes Bonnarda. Like classic Barolo it is slow to open but as it does we get the delicate if masculine flavors of the high hillsides. All tannins have melded.bbwatches2.jpg Soft, pure, delicate dark fruit. A treat. This is the kind of wine that I will guarantee locals in the know [ed. Nino of Da Felicin] are sure to collect. Please read about the region's vinous history, this particular house, and this particular vintage! 12.5%

Black Friday observation...the watch collection from Burberry advertised in the Nordstrom catalog seems without inspiration. This is the best they can do? A Timexwith a "signature" plaid strap?

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