No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene

This year was the 30th anniversary of the Playboy Jazz Festival. It is a day in the sun with "mature" party pipples including the tBoW crew. We bring plenty of wine, cheese, a camera and binocs because the best performers are not always on stage.

The festival lineup follows a rather inflexible format: 3 or 4 new performers paired with seasoned tigers fill the first half of the day. Then there is a dinner act followed by the pop stars, a "classic" vet, and closing with a crowd pumper (Tower of Power this year and they did pump). The downside is minor if predictable. Bill Cosby, exercising his traditional emcee role, puts together "his" ensemble of local premium performers who jam under the name Cos of Good Music. The indulgence is tolerable because the ensemble features truly great musicians (such as trumpeter Ambrose Akinmusire) who, having never played in one group, are compelled to exhibit their talent in featured solos.

The other "anchor act" is the "nostalgia" performer. This year Al Jarreau filled that spot and he was truly awful. He complained about "performers touching their privates". The LA Times reviewer loved him which means he had a stringer web in the report. If Jerry Lewis has a musical counterpart it is AJ.

The big question for the day is not where to park but what wines to bring. Matching includes food (we are toting), the weather (hot and sunny), and the acts. Here is what we came up with in 2008.

2004 Arbois Traminer by Stephane Tissot $20: Supposed to be Savagnin (huh??) but it tastes like white Burgundy. But from Jura France, a region on the Swiss border east-southeast of Burgundy. Plenty of acid but not like the Basque wines. Tastes a lot like old world chardonnay. Dotoré - "very well made but not my favorite grape". 13%

2007 Bandol La Bastide de Blanche Rosé $19: Dry, strawberries, pale salmon color. Floral flavors, taste the alcohol, almost hot, at least lukewarm. Put it back on the ice. Too acidic! Ultimately, we do not "get" Bandol. Our expectations seem to exceed our experience consistently. It is not like the winemakers fail to aim high. They just do not seem to hit their mark. 13.5%

Served with the Cos of Good Music (see above). Aim high...fall short. Except this year with Auntie Renée Resnes on piano and Cos doing his best T Monk impression on drums.

Fortunately, the performer of the day was working hard so the weird Rosado was quickly forgotten as Hiromi and her crew of 2 gave it all they had. She is a youthful ball of energy who plays piano like a bumblebee in a free fall. She plays with lightning speed and melodic thunder. She topped her performance in 2006 which was powerful enough to steal that show as well.

2007 Avinyo Vi D'Agulla Rosado $15: Phawn-keee. Weird. Volatile acidity? No it's a spritz. Strawberry jam. With something weird. Plasticity in feel and flavor. 100% Spanish Merlot from Penedes. Ugh. IF this has to compete with Moscato d'Asti...fuggedaboudid.

2007 Txakoli Gurrutxaga $13: Pure grapefruit juice from the Basque country. If you like acid in your wine the way Hef likes blonde bimbos this is the wine for you. The wine is still light on its feet and tight! 10.5%

It must have been the wimmin's hour as Hef and trio arrived around the same time the all female 16 piece band from New York DIVA took over the stage.

The ladies were tight and ready to let it all go. Hef and crew were gone in two hours while DIVA showed real moxie. You can keep Kendra and MIss Sugar Kane; I'll take DIVA's bass player! [ed. tBoW a big Some like it Hot fan]

2002 Babcock Cargassacchi Pinot Noir $30: Possibly the last pinot to come out of Santa Rita Hills under 14%. This wine has followed a precipitous road since futures purchase in 2003. Wine of the show at the Wine Cask's SB Futures Tasting (so said-eth tBoW's tasting team). The wine immediately entered a dumb phase that cost a couple of bottles and hours of worrisome lamenting. "It's just dumb. No it's freaking awful". Happy to see things are back on track. Too bad we lost our flavor for SRH pinots! Expansive nose that keeps growing. Cherries all over. Soft smoky smells and flavors. Powerful and rich. Could be a Syrah it is that dense. 13.6%

The wine went perfectly with the paunchy punchy homeboy Pancho Sanchez, timbales maestro. Cos re-emerges with a cow bell so he can party with Pancho begging the question...is he buzzed?

Not reviewed but putting in good vibe...Dr. John, Robert Glasper and RnR who will definitely be headlining Vegas in 24 months if not sooner.

I am done with (red) Burgundy. Just like Barolo. It was bound to happen. No more fussing, hoping, expecting great but getting yecch.

The Mouse-man tasting was held at Palate in Glendale. Great food and service. Too bad the two 1996 Burgundies could not come close to measuring up. Let's get to it.

2006 Schafer-Frohlich Riesling Spatlese Nahe $26: Halb-trocken from the Nahe. What is a halb-trocken? "Invented by the Germans when they realized the world did not like their wine style". It means drier than one would have expected from traditional wine making. And this bottle is perfectly balanced, crispy like an ice-ee with caramel notes. Simply delicious. The job was to waken the palates of the tasters and that was accomplished.

2007 Bandol Blanc La Bastide Blanche $20: Last minute fill-in for a white Rhone that did not show well. Composed of Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc. Smoky, uncomplicated, good pick to go with lightly sauteed squid as we waited for fois gras and the next wine.

1983 Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes ~$500 online: The king of wines for the guest of honor. Petrol on the nose. Smell the alcohol which is listed as 11% to 14%. First time I noticed that. Dried apricots keep emerging stronger and stronger as the wine opens over the entire tasting. A monster wine. A finish so long we had to drink copious red wines to wash it out. Having it as the third wine may have been a sequencing error. Just too big. King says it is "leaking out my mouth". Thick, viscous with a core I could only describe as atomic. "A baby" said sommelier Steve Goldun. "This s why I have to be an attorney so I can buy cases of this wine" says son of tBoW. Wine of the evening by a long shot.

1996 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru ~$150: Pee Yooo!! Now that is the goux de merde also known as barnyard. As tBoW has noted before French pinots can be stank-eee! The fruit is there but having trouble finding its way out of the lavatory. "Ripe diaper" says one taster. Brick red color, beets when it starts to lose the poo and show itself. Intense, dark. It never comes around. I saw a note online that says it needs 3 hours to open. Where was that guy? A doctor's office? In line at DMV? This and the next wine close the book on red burgundy for me.

1996 Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St Jacques ~$150: The unofficial Gran Cru of Gevrey. "The perfect facing SE slope" says SG as he launches into an expert topographical delineation of the hill and its vineyards including the ideally situated Clos St Jacques. [ed. read more about Clos St Jacques here] Shoe polish on the nose. Could use some shoe polish to scrape the shit right off my shoes. Another poopster deluxe. Tight. Fruit is there but having trouble making it over the vineyard wall surrounding this precious acreage. Is it on the decline? 13.5%

These two burgs did not show well. They were open at least three hours and never came around. Various tasters online noted 3 to 5 hours required to reveal their magic. Call me impatient. I am done with aging red burgundy. Of course this position was roundly pooh-poohed (appropriately I suppose); tBoW was subjected to torrents of abuse when he declared Williams Selyem produced more consistent wines. I asked the sommelier to name the best domestic pinot producer and he immediately replied...that's right, W-S. Tidbits from the table included 1996 is a tough and tight vintage; in the 90s favorite vintages are 1993 and 1999; and a preference noted for Nuits St George over Chambertin wines.

2001 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas Coteaux $40: Shut yo mouf tasty. Yummy. BBQ and bricquets backed with plenty of fruit. More new world than old but still enough old world not to be confused for a Paso Robles effort. 13%

1998 Rostaing La Landonne ~$200: A great wine in an off vintage proving the point about quality winemakers being robust to less than ideal weather conditions. White pepper on the nose. Knitted together nicely (i.e., balanced wine). Winemaker is known for low acid wines. Pleasing in every way. Tanzer writes "deceptively accessible". Showing so much better than the burgs. Probably best of the rest after d'Yquem. Reviewed on this bog in December 2007.

2001 Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino de Montefalco $50: Umbrian powerhouse made from grapes only grown in the region...except for a few grown in Washington state!! Mouse tout and a good one as per usual. tBoW detects brownies in the flavor profile. Baked, doughy, dark chocolate, cranberries. Only a wine with this kind of size and power could cap a tasting with this lineup. 14%

Retrospectively...Rhone wines never looked better than going head to head with Burgundy. Dotoré thought there were too many wines and too much variety. Perhaps. While these were not U20 wines they helped make the point once again that price and quality do not necessarily go hand in hand [ed. talkin' tBoW mainfesto here]. Baroli and (red) Burgs go to the sidelines. Beaujolais and Rhones step forward.

Consensus held the 1983 d'Yquem stole the show to the surprise of absolutely nobody. After that opinions varied as to the next best wine from the La Landonne to the Cornas to the Nahe Riesling. Steve G opened the 2005 White Dog Syrah from Santa Ynez Larner vineyard which produces some of the highest quality grapes in that region. Too bad the tBoW tasting team was dog meat by this time and thirsting for water and needing to wait a bissel before embarking on the ride home. Which we did.