No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene

No wines less than outstanding and plenty under $20! Dammit.

This topic is a little different. We know this blog is about wines under $20 (dubbed U20 by The Large, recently photoed with John McGlaughlin) that are outstanding or at least not offensive and at least interesting, and worth buying AND drinking. Unfortunately, there are actually so many of these wines we cannot remember even a tiny little sample of them. Like Atlas we carry the weight of heavenly wines on our shoulders, forever searching for relief, testing our beleaguered and weakened memories. (Friendly note – having a wine friend with a strong memory like Dotoré is infinitely helpful).

So here is a shortcut. If we learn who are the most reliable importers for our U20 wines then we can be very confident when we see a wine we might like to buy and try. Simply flip to the back label and read the importer’s name. If it is one of those listed below proceed with complete confidence!

My favorite importers all possess the following characteristics: adventuresome (they search out and bring in wines from regions that are off the Trophy Wine Map); great taste - their wines are uniformly delicious, I cannot recall one bad wine from any - of course, I already mentioned the shortcomings of my memory; generally good value wines although some offer big ticket wines but they are not First Growth Bordeaux; and they can be readily found, that is they have decent distribution networks so it is likely you will find their wine selections in a REAL wine shop like North Berkeley, Wally’s, Wine House or WHMC. Insert your local premium wine retailer here.

I have listed the name, location, phone, email and URL for each so you can chase them down yourself.

Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA, 510-524-1524, no email (!!!), www.kermitlynch.com: Kermit is the Trailblazer. You have to admire and love him. He wrote an outstanding book, “Adventures on the Wine Route”, that conveys his joy and thrill discovering the great wine regions of France as the young wine buyer on the hunt. He has been importing wines from fashionable and unfashionable regions of France forever. And he really does not care for technology. You cannot buy his wines online from his store. He offers no email contact. And his website is little more than an online brochure. He loves to write about his favorite wine regions which he does with the most casual and friendly style in his newsletters. He always has the coolest B&W photos of winemakers and anything else that captures his eye (food, vines) in the letter. He represents a select group of winemakers from hot shit to lesser regions. What I notice is that he shows the same level of excitement and respect to all. No Wine Speculator ‘tude here. His wines are fairly priced and always worth the investment. So check out what he has to offer by downloading his pdf newsletters. And give him a call. He covers Barolo, Burgundy, Rhone, Languedoc, Beaujolais and Provence. He has a home in Provence which he writes about and I will soon be invited there. If nothing else...sign up to receive his newsletter in the mail (yes, the US Mail).

The Age of Riesling, Berkeley CA, 510-549-2444, ageofriesling@comcast.net, www.theageofreisling.com: If you have not ventured into German and Austrian wines…well, one day you will unless you are a total fool in which case I am ordering you off my blog. NOW. Excuse my passion but folks who love riesling are just about that nutty and with good reason. Isn't the Age of Riesling curiously close in name to the Age of Reason? Is there a message here? I love German rieslings...for good reason.
Especially from the Mosel. Now this is like a theme park freak saying s/he loves Disneyland. Of course you do (I hate theme parks). The Mosel has always been the honey pot of wine growing regions in Germany. It cannot be compared to any other region or any other region compared to it. It is not the Burgundy of Germany. I’m getting worked up. This is what happens when one gets to thinking about great Riesling wines. Which is why we have Bill Mayer of AoR. He presents so many options beyond Mosel that I can only thank the day I found him. First of all, he is the Konig of Austrian wines. If you think German Rieslings sound creepy wait till you hear about Austrian gruner veltliner wines.
I will say they are racy, a bit foxy, highly acidic and absolutely intriguing. If we were spies these Austrian wines would be Marlene Dietrich – we cannot really be sure which side she is on or which side she is doing. Prepare to be feel unbalanced (even though the wines are generally well balanced). I have to wrap this up. I could go on forever. I was introduced to German Rieslings very early in my wine tasting experience. I was able to buy plenty of 1983 Kabinetts, Spatleses, and Ausleses. 1983 was a legendary vintage. I started trying and buying 1976ers along with more 1983ers (German vintage reference). I was lucky to save a bunch of the 83s so that when my father-in-law turned 80 in 2000 I busted out the last half case and we drank them up in a big family dinner in a fancy pants restaurant in Santa Barbara. All Mosels and many of the great ones. The most memorable tasted like cotton candy. I know. Hard to believe but that is what I tasted. And I hate cotton candy unless I find it in a glass of 18 year old Mosel. Bill Mayer is selling fantastic wines from Austria and Germany and if you buy them now and hold onto them for 10 years you will be thrilled. I have also purchased red wines – pinot noir aka blauburgunder along with blaufrankisch and zweigelt – from Bill. I still prefer pinot noirs from Sonoma and Burgundy but I did not feel I had been misled. The newsletter is functional. The website too. Try these wines.

Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville PA, no phone, info@weygandtmetzler.com, www.weygandtmetzler.com/: Do you like under the radar? Meet the insider's insider. Say hello to Peter Weygandt. A business attorney by training and a dedicated wine guy by devoted compulsion. He has a quote from Parker on his website that is to the point. Peter has stayed at my home on two occasions. He was the perfect guest who made his bed in the morning right after he showered. He does not crave the spotlight but he deserves it. He is the “poor man’s Kermit Lynch”. He may not approve of that characterization but it applies because Peter also plumbs France’s unfashionable and fashionable regions. He covers Alsace, Burgundy, Beaujolais and Champagne; Australia and New Zealand; Rhone and Languedoc; Loire Valley; Piedmont and Tuscany; and unfashionable regions in Spain (Basque, Navarra, Aragon). His palate is a map of great unknown and known wine regions. The breadth of selections is wider than Kermit Lynch. You can find his wines in fine wine shops in all the nation’s big cities. If you read Weygandt-Metzler on the back label it is a winner. Even the importer label is non-descript!

Becky Wasserman Selection aka Le Serbet, Beaune France, international phone on website, sbw@leserbet.com, www.leserbet.com: She lives in France (hails, as we like to say, from New Yawk). Her son Paul used to work at Woodland Hills Wine Company where he often steered me to many fine wines. Paul has worked many places in wine, is full of info, and is a wine writer worth reading. And his mother is Becky Wasserman who like Kermit and Peter is a legendary importer. When Paul was at WHWC he brought in a slew of vintage Burgundies repped by his mom from Camille Giroud. I never heard of C-G but I was willing to try some of the older wines, 20 and 30 years, on Paul's word. Read about the circumstances that allowed schlubs like me to purchase these incredible wines. Now, Burgundies are not U20 wines. However, BW also covers Rhone, Provence, Launguedoc and Beaujolais which can yield some U20s. Here is why I have included the big ticket queen of Burgundy with the U20 kings. You have to go to a real wine shop to find her stuff. So if you find yourself in a REAL wine shop and you are searching for a big ticket wine for your wine loving boss/future pop-in-law, or your loving hard working wine loving husband or wife, and you are going to spend top dollar, then you will be well advised to step up to the local clerk and demand the Becky Wasserman selections. Visit the website, dig the mega techno talk and the neat, authoritative writing about the wines. This is good wine geek stuff. If you want to try a great burgundy with some years on it then get yourself an older vintage burg imported by Becky Wasserman from 1996 for the holidays. It is possible to spend more than $20 of your wine budget on something smart.

Richard Belloff is a pioneer in Westlake. He opened his cozy wine bar/restaurant Bellavino in Westlake CA in 2003. He has gone through several chefs and enough personal re-tooling to test anyone's survivability. Yet here he is with his very warm dining establishment, a terrific chef, a wine director, an outrageously attractive Monday night $30 three course special...and a superb wine list.

2005 Michael David Petite Petit $20: Richard recommended this wine to go with my crab cake and pork chop. He also noted the importance of staying under $20 without sacrificing quality. This wine does it. Great balance. Medium weight. Some cranberry, light pepper. Could pass for a Southern France Carignane blend. And it is such an unusual blend. Michael David Winery hails from Lodi. He makes the 7 Deadly Zins which is a very popular label. Not a zin fan but who knows now? We love Lodi having learned about the historical importance of Lodi in California wine history. You could call it the motherlode. More like the motherland.I usually frown on the zin-cab or cab-syrah stylists. As my good pal who took me to Mastros might say Igottatellya this blend works really well. Now I have to bring Igottatellya to Bellavino on Monday night.

14.5% on the alcohol which is the new goal for Adam Tolmachl! If you did not read the incredible LA Times article on high alcohol levels in Central Coast wines with the courageous admission from Tolmach - one of California's master wine makers - that he is boycotting his own high-alcohol wines - then you must click on the preceding link. Of course, tBoW has been pounding the table (like Krushchev at UN in 1960) for this cause for a long time. This is why we post alcohol levels. Let me step down from my soapbox.

[ed. for all the puppies who read this blog, the link goes to a 1960 newsreel showing Russian Prime Minister Krushchev and komrades pounding the table with their fists to demonstrate Soviet strength and pugnacity. tBoW's Bacchus was 11 y.o. then and this stuff played big but you had to go to the movies to see newsreels, or you could just read the newspaper. Now I feel like Andy Rooney.]

Holy jumpin' elephants now here's a goodun. The Michael David winery was supposedly sued because this label looks too much like Barnum & Bailey artwork. All I can say is the wine is not listed on the winery website nor could I find it on the web. I had to take this pic of the Micahel David label above myself so you could make up your own mind.

Jesse Casanova is the wine director. Jesse brings his experience working with Terlato Wines International which handles many high-end Italian wine plus domestic standouts such as Rochioli. So Jesse know wine. Better yet, Jesse is on a mission to help Westlake wine fiends learn about wines other than the same old same old (nuff said right there). So he has initiated a series of wine dinners called Vine and Dine. These feature different varietals paired with well-matched foods. How about a Riesling tasting? First one I have seen in the Conejo Valley. Check these guys. If you are there on a Monday say hello to me!

Here are some other nice wines recently tasted.

Pipestone 2003 Grenache ~$18: Jammy-lite, ripe fruit. One day later the fruit backs off and blends in much more nicely. Ripe plum notes. Rich tasting. Can only dream of what this wine might offer with a bit less ripeness and alcohol. Following the development of this winemaker is worthwhile.14.9%.

2005 Domaine de Combiaty Brouilly $18: Imported by Beaune Imports, an importer to watch. We are pretty much in love with the 2005 and the 2006 vintages in Beaujolais. Something is happening in the region. This wine is made by Dominique Piron. We think we can always tell the old world wines because they do not have the big bright fruit (generally, there must be exceptions). This is not the exception but it does have a lot of good fruit. A day later (as above) it is better, more blended (melded?) and nicely balanced. Moreso than the Pipestone. Would I buy it again? If other wines from the same vintages were not available. Would I buy it if I had never tried it before? Well I already did. Best of all? 12.5%

2004 Barbera d'Alba Vigna San Lorenzo Bartolo Mascarello $22: Steve Goldun tout (he left WHWC!! What will we do? We throw our corks in with Dave Russell). Think Gamay fruit with spicy pepper. Absolutely delightful. Very nicely balanced. Open one day and stored in half bottle. I will get more of this. 14%. Once upon a time Barbera was not very glamorous. Maybe it still is not. Then it got glamorous kind of riding the coattails of the Barrique Barolistas. Those would be the Piemonte winemakers who broke ranks with the old timers and started aging the wine in small oak barrels instead of monster Slovenian oak - or traditional cement - barrels. My point is Barbera quickly shifted from being sort of obscure and for locals only to a "re-discovered" varietal that "deserved its due". Thank god that movement faded. Here is a locals only wine that tastes like the wines we would like to taste more of. Who is Bartolo Mascarello? Mascarello is a high profile name in the region and a defender of the "old ways". Click on the preceding link to read a bio on the elder statesman of Barolo.

Becky Wasserman is choosing and Russell Hone is pouring Red Burgundies. Not only do you get to try great wine, you also get to hear great stories and enjoy a couple of well spent hours. This entry continues coverage of the Woodland Hills Wine Company tasting of Becky Wasserman Selections. tBoW covered the whites, pinks and sparklers in the previous entry.

While Becky staffed the white and pink flight her husband Russel Hone [ed. greeting us above] handled the Red Table. The wines were all very good. What was really special was how the wines became better as we moved up the ladder...really better.

2007 Saladin Cotes-du-Rhone Loi $15.30: Red purple color. Thick but not quite 30W motor oil. Stinky nose. 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 5% Bourboulenc. The 2007 vintage in Rhone was notably HUGE. Should we be drinking the 06 Rhones if we are put off by the big forward fruit? Not with this wine. It is big but not TOO big. 60% Grenache, 20% each Syrah and Mourvedre. Yummy rich flavors. Would be nice to compare with something similar from Tablas Creek. A top quality U20 wine. 13%

2007 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Les Trois Souers $12: This is NOT a Wasserman wine but I thought I might mention it here as a typical example of the rich and fruity and very California-like 07 Rhone vintage. The color is inky black purple. Weight is very thick. Dotoré decribes the 07 Rhone vintage as "this year's vintage of the century". A big shouldered wine at a very good U20 price. Plenty ripe if not overripe. 14.5%

2007 Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru $37.80: Spicy peppery nose especially for French Pinot Noir. Fruity wine but still "light on its feet like it should be." [ed. credit that to WHWC staff David Russell] 13.5%

2006 Bachelet Cote-de-Nuits Villages $30.60: Funky gamey nose. Love it. Will take several years. Structured but ultimately simple. Slightly tannic. Raises issues about where you might best spend your sheckles since it is a village wine. More on this coming up. 13%

2006 Lignier-Michelot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Bertin $39.60: Now we in da good shit. We are told by the very knowledgable Mr. Russell that Lignier is a young winemaker based out of Morey St Denis with vintages beginning with the millenium. One acquires Burgundy vineyards in only three ways: inheritance, marriage or oodles of cash. David points out this is an AC wine [ed. quality wine produced in a superior region but not that superior] that combines fruit from two vineyards formerly bottled separately. This wine is striking on presentation. Lots of funk, skunkweed, and spice. Some call it forest floor but I believe that applies when the aromas are more integrated and maybe not so rough. Gevry often makes this impression on tBoW. This is brawny stuff. On second pour it shows sweetness and ripeness. Excellent effort. 13%

2006 Burguet Gevery-Chambertin Place des Lois $54: Bowled us over. We like it mucho when there is a wine that is simply stunning, truly special. It reinforces our belief that wine can be magnificent, delivering stimuli beyond a good buzz. This is that wine tonight. Sublime. Caramel nose. SImply beautiful. Pure Pinot Noir flavors. Delicate, balanced, showy without being a show off. This is where great Barolo meets great Burgundy. Right here with this wine. This also solves the sheckles dilemma. Why spend $30 for a village wine when you can spend $40 for a grand effort like the Lignier. But if you are crossing the threshold for a very nice and exotic wine like Lignier then you may as well go to $55 and buy something that will seduce your senses and knock your socks off...gently and soothingly. Turn in my U20 card. We bought it. [ed. turns out this was a very good price since Internet searches showed prices 20% higher] 13%

We close with a photo of an anonymous taster chilling in front of Paul Smith's Wall-o'-Wine.

This is the way it is supposed to be. Hanging out at the local wine haunt - Woodland Hills Wine Company - tasting 13 wines imported by tBoW's top Burgundy importer - Becky Wasserman - on a late Friday afternoon.

The Divine Ms. W showed of 7 white wines (including a couple Rose's and three sparklers) and 6 reds. We present the white flight in this post. Saving the red post for next week. If you are chagrined or disappointed please find solace in knowing Paul Smith, aka Mr. WHWC, did admonish the tBoW tasting Team for not heading straight to the good stuff.

The event was well attended without ever being too crowded. A $40 entry fee was more than fair especially given that earlier in the week the same wines were presented with food for $225! Note the prices quoted were reduced 10% for the event.

Parigot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé $20: Pinkish color, weedy nose which was not unpleasant. Good spritz, surprisingly alcoholic for a light alcohol wine. The problem here is the summer is closing and tBoW team still has pank product to move through if you get my drift. 100% Pinot Noir. 12.5%

Berthelot Brut Champagne Reserve $33.30: Yeasty nose. Nutty almond and green apple flavors. Interesting blend of 40% Pinot Meuniere, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. 13%

Camille Saves Brut Champagne Carte Blanche 1er Cru $49.50: Pears on the nose. Also a bit soapy which could have been the glass but I do not think so. Pretty nose, creamy texture and flavor. 13%

2008 Saladin Côtes-du-Rhone Rosé $15.30: Dumb name for a very nice U20 great pink summer wine. This domain had a red offering, too, that was also well priced and outstanding. This is mostly Grenache. Has a spicy nose. Firm spine. The way we like rosé wines. If it weren't so late in the season...although this would hold up nicely to the Thanksgiving bird. 13%

2006 Bachelet Bourgogne Aligoté $22.50: Aligote is always interesting. Some call it the poor man's Chardonnay since it is grown in Burgundy. tBoW wonders if that is the US impression or if it is of French origin? Yeast and tannins on the nose. Twigs. Acidic and lean. Nice for the varietal. You have to like the style to like the wine. Never caught on with tBoW. 12%

2006 Bret Brothers Pouilly-Fuisse Le Clos Reyssie $30.60: Creamy yeasty nose. This is Chardonnay like you just do not get in the New World. tBoW taster IGTY points out a recent Wall Street Journal article on the follies of California Chardonnays; in two words oak and butter. Like taking a cube to a tree and trying to drink it. Not this delicious wine. Clean flavors, not too tannic. Tastes like Chardonnay. We bought it. 12.5%

2007 Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc $27: Acidic, lean. Fruity lime flavors. Another Chardonnay winner. Contrasts very nicely with the Pussy Fussy. We bought this one too!. Here is a nice website on the winemaker Patrick Bize. 12.5%

This finished the "light" flight. The tBoW tasting team headed away from the bar and over to the table manned by Becky's husband and partner in crime who was pouring 5 Pinot Noir wines and one Rhone blend. Read all about it next entry.

Here are a few parting comments on the social aspects of a tasting like this one.

Dotoré made a new friend, Bruce. He is a jazz trombone player who has sat in with Ella. After spending much of the tasting chatting with Bruce I helped him pick out some Argentine Malbecs. We lost track of Bruce at the sales counter so if you are reading this entry Bruce please check in. Dotoré wants to share more jazz stories.

Dotoré also immediately made a good impression with Becky by praising the Chateau Fitou imported by her last year. She was pleased a consumer [ed. at least a seasoned consumer] remembered and praised the winemaker who searched out old 60 y.o. Carignane along with Syrah and the array of other old vines in the Languedoc Rousillon. "Everyone think he's crazy for seeking out these small old vineyards no bigger than this store."

She is a darling and we completely enjoyed speaking with her. Like both her sons, Peter and Paul, she has an encyclopedic knowledge of French wines. We missed thanking her for the great tasting so tBoW thanks her right here and now in the blog. Thanks Becky!! Keep 'em coming!!