No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene

Christmas has passed...finally. I have a strongly ambivalent relationship with the year-end holiday. I hate the hype, ruthless and relentless marketing. Wreaths on car grills always make me sneer. But Ray Charles singing about kids...I tear right up. That's right. Big wet eyes. And my kids are adults! I also greatly appreciate my wife and our friends this time of year. That is why we throw a Christmas Day party and invite everyone we know and love.

Another holiday tradition which usually inspires bland disinterest is lists of the past year's greatest whatever [these are similarly disinterested seals on the beach in Jenner] I know what you're thinking...he's going to list his favorite wines from 2007. Why would I do that when I list them for you every week. No, I am going to post some of my favorite photos...and not from this year necessarily. And I am going to post these photos adjacent to the reviewed wines since, for the most part, I was unable to find corresponding labels.

Finally, I expect to taste great wines and unusual wines over the holidays. I bring some and I drink what others bring as well. [Chicago's Fulton Alley was unusually pretty on this night]I really look forward to the holidays for that reason...to enjoy wines with which I am not necessarily familiar with good and new friends. This season did not disappoint.

1996 Cantina Vignaioli Barbaresco Elvio Pertinace Vigneto Castellizzano ~$50: I continue to work through the 1996 and 1997 nebiollos. Forgot where I got this one but if I had to, I would guess K&L. Cherry cola. Ready to go. Delicious. Not the expected tar and roses...and so what? Excellent bottle.

2001 McKenzie-Mueller Pinot Noir ~$30: Believe this came in a mailer for wine club. Opened in a restaurant with following wine below. had this one first. Good idea. Elegant, cherry Carneros pinot. Dining with L&L and they both loved the wine. Absolutely ready, need more. Bob Mueller is one terrific winemaker.

[Regusci winery off the Silverado Trail in Napa] 2002 Point Concepcion Syrah Jalama Cuvee ~$40 in mag): Took the mag to celebrate the birthday of somebody special. Did not disappoint. Already developing in bottle. Showing nicely. Softer, some white pepper (I think we say white pepper when it is not black), syrah dark fruit character. Peter Cargasacchi did a fine job with this wine.

[West Coast Choppers celebrate the holiday their way]

2001 Tobin James James Gang Reserve ~$28: A guest at same party brought this one. I am not a zin drinker. There are a few producers I like - Franus and Nalle. Both make their zins in a claret style. I have never found the big tooth stainers to my liking. This wine is very nice. Has the characteristic prune flavor, like an Amarone. Sweet, with some spine. Has aged well in the bottle. I hit it a few times and not just to be nice! Tobin James is an under-the-radar winemaker from Paso with a strong following.

[Santa did not bring me this Gaja stash]
1997 Pacific Star Petite Syrah: These wines were brought out at Carlitos' holiday party (best one I get invited to attend). Carlos puts out non-Kirkland shrimp (in Carlos' view Costco shrimp are a little tired - agreed) that are plump and firm. A couple hours later out comes the filet side that is simply outrageous. Oh yeah - the wines. If you like under-the-radar then check out Pacific Star. Been around for decades. Mendocino Coast winery sourcing Mendocino County grapes. This is the first petite syrah that I have tasted that has been properly aged. Petite Syrah is a legendary grape in NoCal. It is one of those wines where it helps a lot to know the producer. And it has to age. Well this was pure cherry coal (there is that flavor again). My first one. I see what you mean brutha.

1997 Pacific Star Sirius Red: This wine was 40% Charbono blended with Cabernet, Zinfandel, Charbono and Petite Syrah. Charbono is another one of those field blend Italian farmer grapes that was on the table every night in the Cesare Mondavi and Cesare Gallo households. Classic. This was not cherry cola. It was more like a chianti, sweet-ish, light weight. No tannins. House red that goes with everything. I found a good news piece about Pacific Star that you can read here.

Everyone has or should have a mentor. Whether we know it or not we are all influenced by someone who, in our view, has a profound knowledge about something we would like to be more expert in ourselves. This does not negate the influence of friends and others who also hold sway over our views. What I am saying is that there is someone to whom, when he speaks, we listen a little more closely.

My mentor is Master Gee. He has been around wine for a really really long time. He has been in every crook and cranny of the wine business. He has been affiliated with some of the most notable wine projects in SoCal from retail to wholesale to everything else. He knows everyone. If he does not know you then you do not exist.

He pulled the cork on the single most memorable bottle of wine I ever tasted. The wine was so bizarre and at the same time so exquisite that all my preconceptions about wine were obliterated..an experience that would and should happen again...when I might least expect it...I can only hope.

Master Gee told one of the funniest wine stories I ever heard that same evening. One of the guests at a small tasting in a root cellar was the youngest son of a seminal California grape family. Gee recalled visiting this fellow's uncle every year for a decade in one of the gazillion acres of vineyards the family owned in the Central Valley.

"Your uncle liked to meet in the vineyards. Every other year he arrived in a brand new Cadillac, dust flying off the dirt roads, we could see him coming for miles. My question to you is did he ever drive it anywhere else? Or was that his tractor?"

Gee has presently made a niche in a very low profile and very unglamorous end of the business (not for the first time). I asked him recently did he miss all the hoopla?

"Not at all. I am really done with wine. [Gee leaned back] Look, wine is all about one story. The point is to convince everybody that this beverage can only be produced on this plot of land by this winemaker. I call it the Magic Chef and the Hallowed Ground".

I am listening. Please continue.

But first...an appropriate (and much loved) introduction for a fairy tale.

The Magic Chef is the only person on earth who can prepare chicken just so, with these special ingredients in these secret amounts. The wine is made perfectly because he has the magic touch.

The Hallowed Ground is that very rare spot where the vineyards grow, producing the grapes that the Magic Chef turns into wine. The Hallowed Ground is comprised of terroir that cannot be replicated or replaced. It can be emulated but it can never be exactly copied because the Hallowed Ground only exists right here.

This incredibly delicious and justifiably expensive and highly rated wine, therefore, can only be made by this chef working with grapes from this place.

This is the story driving all wine markets.

Over the holidays I pulled a bottle from a place in our warehouse where everyone dumps their soiled labels, Australian gewurtztraminers, and otherwise forgotten wines. It was a 2004 Chilean Cab Merlot blend. This wine sells out at $8 in 1 day. I took it to a dinner with friends and wine people. The usual array of high end overripe high alcohol reds were opened. This Chilean blend was my favorite. 12% alcohol, easy to drink.

I see from where many of my biases traveling in wine country have arisen. Where do yours come from? Master Gee thought my recent entry on The Best of Wine Importers Part 2 was a scream. "What pompous jackasses!!" Then he told me to see Mondo Vino (I did, click to read review).

We looked at his new fleet of temperature controlled trucks with naugahyde seats. Very nice.

[ed. Hanna Barbera vids including complete Fractured Fairy tales are abundant on youtube]

Here are a few wines recently uncorked...

1996 Pira Barolo Marenca $40: Another bottle from the terrific 1996 vintage. This wine has developed almost perfectly. Any nuance of tar and roses has given way to pure black cherry fruit in a well balanced solution. This wine is drinking very nicely right now. Not sure I would hold it much longer. 14.5%. Best I could find was the 1999 label.

2003 Giessinger Port Cucamonga Valley $26: What you say could this be? And where is the Cucamonga Valley? Who can be interested in the wine before the other mysteries are investigated. About the wine...this is dessert wine made from zinfandel grapes grow somewhere near San Bernardino which is otherwise known for being one of the two major Inland Empire cities. It is hot in San Berdoo (where the Hells Angels began). The wine has a nutty nose and ripe date flavors. I believe there are substantial date crops in the region. The wine is nicely balanced and the whole presentation is fairly subdued. Zin has a tendency to be overwhelming. This is not. Nice pick by Pee Wee, wine novitiate. Alcohol not listed but I would guess it is less than the typical 16% for port wine. Nice. Who is this Giessinger Winery? They could not be more local so we will have to learn more. You know, once upon a time more wine was produced in Southern Cal than the rest of the state. Giessinger, Hells Angels and Pee Wee...three SoCal originals.

We visited the Gaudalupe Valley in Northern Baja Mexico. Drive south from Tijuana til you get about10 km north of Ensenada and make a hard left. When you get to San Antonia de las MInas (another 15 km) you are there. [ed. Photo is Tres Mujeres vineyard.]

We survived the tourist warnings about getting caught in the crossfire of narco gun battles or being kidnapped by marauding gangsters. We did not even see Chupacabra.

There are much better sites that present this region than I can, such as this one at cliff.com. The Guadalupe Valley is Mexico's wine region. It is rustic. One paved highway traverses the east-west valley. Make a left or right and you are driving on dirt. The valley is not at any significant elevation although it is bordered north and south with peaks that look like 1,000 feet. The valley width is probably 10 miles. Length is 20 miles. It is R-U-S-T-I-C. No Ferrari Carrano or Coppola gift shops. That said, there are two monster wine facilities: Casa Pedro Domecq (Presidente Brandy) and LA Cetto. Each produces more than 1 million cases of mostly plonk annually. LA Cetto is a popular family destination. We bought the olive oil.

If you like isolation and quiet you will love the Villa del Valle; a handsome estate with 6 guest bedrooms. Call it a B&B but it really is more elegant. You get there riding a road ruddier than Russel Crowe's face. This is mountain bike country for the cruisin' set. Fire roads, hills, aerobic workout. Followed by the late afternoon wine hour.

No phones. No newspapers. No TV. Wireless so one is not completely out of touch. Bring books, an MP3 player and a camera. Or just hang out an enjoy the hilltop views across the valley. An island of cultured civility in a rural rustic valley. And Phil is building a very nice and representative selection of local wines of which his are among the best.

But is it a true wine destination? Maybe not quite yet. Do not let that put you off. There are ~40 wineries. New planting from one year ago says something is growing. We tasted wines from four vignerons trying to make something happen. You decide.

Liceaga: New roadside facility. Conventional aspirations. Known for their Merlot. Met Steve Dryden in the tasting room. He was dropping off the Baja Times with a couple of his columns. He moved here five years ago from Paso. Sees it coming. Wines are unremarkable. Of the majority group trying to grow Bordeaux varietals in a Rhoneisima region. They did have a grappa!

Vinisterra Winery: Nice couple runs this facility off the main road. A bit hard to find but what else we gonna do? We found them. New brick facility. Plans for a tasting room. Producing 4,000 cases with a goal of 6,000. Good plan. They have three lines that include a Grenache Rose, a Cab-Merlot blend and a Tempranillo. And they have a Syrah-Mourvdre blend. They are the Rhone Rangers al Sur. All young vines so they source alot from the two valleys to the older-planted south (San Vicente and San Tomas). Patti and Abelardo are going in a more interesting direction in terms of valley wines. We buy the high-priced bottle ($45!!) just to see what it tastes like. tBoW thinks the price point is all wrong but we liked the place and the idea of making their high-end line Rhone-style mucho. Good luck and think about the pricing.

Vena Cava: Our hosts at Villa del Valle have planted a couple acres on a southwest facing hillside. In the meantime he bought grapes from a local vigneron cherry picking exactly what he wants. We tasted three Vena Cava wines and liked them all. He sells them from the wine list. His second vintage from mature vines. All priced around $20 at the villa. Now doesn't that make sense?!? Terroir-driven.

2007 Chardonnay: Tastes more like a Chenin Blanc. No obvious oak and plenty of ripe fruit. Very nice. Mineral flavors enhance the wine.

2007 Sauvignon Blanc: Lemon lime nose and flavors. No grassiness or grapefruit. How refreshing. Unctuous. VIscous. Unfiltered so it has some dust in the bowl. Delightful. Think juicy Loire wine.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon: Citrus quality (like Argentina). Mid weight. Slightly sweet. Soft tannins. No tobacco or leather flavors thank you. No big oak thank you. Akin to the Tres Mujeres Cabernet. These three wines seem terroir-driven. Not trying to be something else from some other place.

Tres Mujeres: "Go up this road" says the missus. She has spied a hilltop winery (Rancho Mogrocito) that looks promising but when we get to the entrance the chain link fence is locked and the sign says (in English) by appointment only. So we continue a few hundred more yards until we arrive at a house with a ceramic hand pointing to an "artisan winery". The dozing hounds do not budge. It is wineries like this one that make Guadalupe Valley special. Three women make wine at the home site of Ivette Vaillard. She is a pot thrower (the ceramicist who made the directional hand) and an accomplished artist. Not sure what the other two ladies do but they all love wine and so, like their neighbors, they make wine. She slips out of her apron and guides us to the entry to the wine cellar. In the tiny cave we tasted the ladies' three wines.

2006 Grenache $20: A blend of Zinfandel, Carignane and mostly Grenache. I was surprised to learn zinfandel was growing in the valley. "Our neighbors gave us our first cuttings. We did not what they were until a few years ago". Middle weight body. Fruity, not over-ripe. The Carignane gives sweetness. Zin is also there with a familiar prune flavor. A modern day "field blend" that she makes work. Gentle, warm, restrained like our hostess. Charming, unassuming, sweet. A woman's strength. This is her seventh vintage.

2006 Merlot $20: Caramel flavors found in the Vinisterra Merlot not showing here. Once again, not a knockout wine but a wine that seems to reflect the salt and mineral qualities of the soil. A wine I love? No. An effort I love? Absolutely.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon $20: Expecting the worst from a Cabernet grown in salty soil in a hot and dry region. BUT...we are surprised. Here is a cab that seems to represent Guadalupe Valley terroir. It does not taste like every other cab trying to taste like Napa or Bordeaux. In fact, I will bet if I put this in front of a snob pod they will be unable to not only peg it as Cabernet but to identify the grape at all.

These wines are only available at the winery which makes only 800 cases. Tres Mujeres is about making wine under tough circumstances. This is marathon winemaking. The soil and the heat are not even the greatest challenges. Check this out.

Ivette and her two fellow vignerons make wine about 100 steps uphill from the home on a make-shift cement pad with a trellis that they will cover during harvest and fermentation. She used to make the wines on the back porch. Their wines are only available at the winery. "Is there a white wine" I ask recovering my senses from trying to fathom the effort and love required to get it all done. "Oh yes. We make a Sauvignon Blanc but only enough to drink at home". Why? "You know it is too much work making white wine with temperature control. Always bringing more ice up the hill". I hear you sister.

We loved visiting with Ivette. She could not have been more accommodating and humble. We will return and we will visit once more.

We bought a bottle of each wine. Wish I had bought more. The Merlot and the Cab have labels. Ivette used a silver sharpie to inscribe her bottle with the "label". I am still grinning.