Show me the Malbec...Argentina parte uno
Just flew in from Buenos Aires and boy is my palate tired.
The 14 day tour took us to Buenos Aires, Iguazu and Mendoza. I tried to poo-poo Iguazu as just another tourist trap but I was WRONG. Here is a youtube vid with a Moby track that in a very small way captures the majesty of this must-visit site for those of you traveling to Argentina. I loved Buenos Aires and the falls but this is a wine blog so let me tell you about the wine country. That means Mendoza.
Mendoza is the the name of the city and province (e.g., Los Angeles city and county). For a city of 1.400,000 the place is pretty dang relaxed. The large province is geographically diverse which is very good for the wine. The weather in the city is ideal (end of summer this time of year in the 70s). There are purportedly 1,200 wineries in the estado. A winery that produces half a million cases like Salentein in Uco Valley is not unusual.
A winery that produces 500 cs such as La Azul also in the Valle de Uco (pictured below) is also not unusual although it is apparent the larger wineries get the greatest exposure...for now.
The three wine principal growing areas surrounding Mendoza proper that get the greatest exposure are Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu and Valle de Uco. 
There are numerous micro areas within each. Think of Lujan de Cuyo as Sonoma, Maipu as Napa and Valle de Uco as...the Rockies with vinifera. Wine is also grown north of Mendoza in San Juan (out of the province) and south in San Rafael (warmer and in Mendoza province).
There are also a couple other important growing regions, Salta to the very north with its CafayateValley and Rio Negro in Patagonia to the very south. We will discuss these regions in subsequent reports. Especially since the most impressive winery in my view comes from Salta.
I will be writing several reports. They will focus on wine quality, regional style and value. This entry reports the wines I tasted at the Vines. Forthcoming reports include bodega touring including the incredible Uco Valley, availability of wines I liked in LA, and other wines tasted including many more Malbecs.
First an observation. Wineries in the region are well represented on the Internet. In fact, web-presence is somewhat formulaic featuring Flash with music and "visionary" dialogue. In town and on the ground, thankfully, things are not so cookie cutter.
We booked lodging at the Posada de Rosas over the web and crossed our fingers. This turned out to be very fortunate as our hosts were two very charming Americans (Ellen and Riccardo) in the travel business who provided endless touts on dining, shopping and touring. Their Posada is ideally located and quite comfortable.
[ed. Ellen and Riccardo share the very strong expectation that Mendoza wine touring is about to boom. The signs are everywhere.]
The Vines of Mendoza is emblematic of the Mendoza wine boom. This outfit is (1) a tasting room with nearly 200 local wines, (2) a wine store that ships to the USA (through their wine club Acequia), (3) the original and now former wine touring service, (4) a real estate business that sells 10 acre vineyard plots for wannbe vignerons, and (5) a vineyard management service for the buyers of their vineyards. Take a breath.
I am happy to say that the folks at Vines were extremely knowledgable and helpful; in particular Carolina Escudero, Pedro Cubillos and Mariana Onofri. Just to make my point about opportunities in the Mendoza wine scene, Ms. Onofri is a certified sommelier who left La Bourgogne to join the Vines staff. La Bourgogne is the highly regarded restaurant at the Carlos Pulenta bodega (take the bodega tour, skip the lunch at LB). Pulenta is one of the major players in Argentine wine. You would think a gig like that is worth hanging onto and certainly would trump working in a wine store. Except in Mendoza where being in the right place at the right time can make a career. And The Vines appears to be the right place right now.
I tasted nine wines at the Vines. You will see they ran a gamut in price, varietal and region which is exactly what I wanted for my get-to-know-you tasting. I paid $50 which some folks might think is kind of pricey for spitting wine, and in Mendoza it might be. I cannot make a comparison since tasting wine in Mendoza is not like California where tasting rooms are open to the public all day long. Of course, that is excluding Napa's tonier wineries where $40 is de riguer and you do not get to keep the logo glass. [ed. tBoW reviewed Napa in this Nov 07 column] Wine touring and tasting is by appointment in Mendoza. Even though there are other tasting rooms in Mendoza (e.g., Marcelino Wine Shop, see Ellen at Posada de Rosas) I only tasted at the Vines. Otherwise, tasting took place at dinner (only Argentine wines were ordered) or wineries. I will say dining in Mendoza was outstanding.
Prices are in US$. Exchange is 3 pesos to 1 dollar.
2005 Gimenez Riili Perpetuum $10: Sparkling Blanc de Blanc (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir) wine from Maipu grapes. The winemaker/owner is a partner in the Vines. No alcohol or vintage. Toasty with oak notes. Walnut and green apple flavors. Really nice. I saved some for the end and lemon had emerged. 12.6%. Can we get this over here soon?
2007 Lurton flor de Torrontes $8.50: I am in love with Torrontes. I started drinking it the first chance I had when I ordered an Alta Vista Torrontes for dinner at Tomo 1 in BA. This is Valle de Uco juice. It is herbaceous with no oak. Feline character and viognier flavors. 12.5%. Not my style but I bet the Missus would have loved it.
2007 Lorca Viognier $13.50: Soon as I mentioned viognier, Pedro Cubillos, my server, brought one out. Salty nose. Very floral in the mouth. Also Valle de Uco fruit. 14%.
Time out. The photo at top is from Valle de Uco which is a region 100km south of the city. It is higher elevation, closer to the Andes and tends to produce higher tone fruit with more acid and more alcohol. Much of the big international $$ is going into Uco valley.
2007 Jose L Mounier Torrontes $5: The Vines staff love this wine. So do many other folks [ed. see Oct 07 SFgate article] so I am bucking the trend. Mounier is the winemaking veteran of Cafayate Torrontes which is the cradle of great Torrontes. His is a good story. After producing great Torrontes wines for others in the region he has opened his own small bodega (winery), small production (8,000 cs) with 25 year old vines. Except it is not my style. Full bodied, subdued nose, viscous wine. Floral nose but just too heavy for me. 13%.
Time out #2. Torrontes was described to me as a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat and/or Criolla. In fact, it is a cross between Muscat and Criolla Chico which is the Mission grape. It is not related to the Spanish Torrontes grape and aren't you glad we got that straight. It has weight (viscosity) which comes from Criolla. It has an herbaceous and/or floral nose which comes from the Muscat. However, I also tasted and smelled that distinctive Riesling petroleum component along with bright acids when made in a certain style. It comes on like a cross between a Ligurian white and a Saarburger Riesling (think Zilliken). In the least is a great summer wine. At best I think it can make a great white wine.
2007 Altosur Sophenia Sauvignon Blanc $12.50: Pedro strikes again. Mention Sauvignon Blanc and here it comes from the high altitude Finca Sophenia vineyard. Grassiness, grapefruit in the nose. What I would expect from SB. However, sexier bottom fruit. "What do you mean?" inquires Pedro. OK. the wine is weightier than I would expect. It has substance and elegance. This is from a 4,000 foot vineyard named Altosur in the Uco valley so it also has higher alcohol and acid. That's sexy isn't it? I would buy this.
2002 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon $20: Pedro poured this with pride. Carmelo Patti is a beloved long-standing local winemaker from Sicily who remains independent and true to his family style winemaking methods. Production is 50,000 cs. of which 14,000 are Cabernet Sauvignon. With 6 years on it maturity was expected. The nose is exotic with black pepper and black olive. The aroma is not heavy or dominant like we often find in Napa cabs. Color is dark red brick showing some age. Flavor is acidic but balanced. Weight is light to medium. It is like a southern Italian wine, even Sicilian. Style is old world. 13.5%. Too bad I rarely drink Cabs. But you might.
, $45: This is the big ticket big rep wine of which there are many. The Familia Zuccardi label is the premium label for one of Argentina's largest (1.25 million cases) enterprises. Call it your Argentina trophy wine. Beautiful King's robe, regal red. Strong middle palate. Otherwise pretty boring...and over-priced (although "good value" for a trophy wine). 14.5%
2005 Bressia Monteagrelo $26: Finally a Malbec and a really good one. I think it is remarkable and indicative of the diversity among Argentine wines (and the knowledge of Mr. Pedro Cubillos) that I tasted 6 wines at the Vines before getting to a Malbec. And this was the one to taste first. Bressia is a bit of a mystery. The website is under construction and I am not sure where is the winery and I did not visit there (even though Ellen offered it just did not work out). However, there is no mystery about his wines which are roundly admired and recommended. This is his Malbec from the Monteagrelo vineyard. The nose was aromatic with berry notes. Distinct chocolate and cherry flavors. Good acid. Medium weight. Seductive. We need this wine here. 13.5%.
2003 La Azul Reserve $20: A blend of Malbec, Cab Sauv and Merlot from Flavia Monterolla in the Uco Valley. She is the rare woman winemaker and bodega owner. Production is 500 cs.
April 25, 2008
Argentina wines in LA (not!! yet...)
You know how it is. You spend a couple weeks in Argentina including a week just in Mendoza staring at the Andes [ed. the view from Vistalba] and tasting wines and you find stuff you really like. You have to decide "do I haul some back or have some shipped?" If you want to ship a case from Argentina via DHL it will set you back $240/case. So add $20/bottle to your U20 winners. Or you can join The Vines of Medoza wine club Acequia. The Vines has much of what you like on their impressive list and they ship for a lot less ( I mean a LOT LESS) than DHL.
[ed. alert: The Wall Street Journal published an article March 29 2008 on The Vines vineyard business.]
Why not join the club? I have no problem accepting wines selected by people in which I have complete confidence, especially if they are Vines staff Mariana Onofri or Pedro Cubillos. Wait a minute. I live in LA. I can find most of these wines, especially my favorites, in Los Angeles. LA baby. Bigger than New Yawk. Anything you want.
WRONG. I returned with must-buy wines from Colomé, La Azul and Walter Bressia. Of these three I have found only the Colomé at Hi Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa! Fortunately, my tBoW tasting team supervisor who lives in Orange County had knee surgery recently so I was able to stop by and pick up more of what was certainly the most fascinating wine tBoW tasted in Argentina; that would be Colomé. I know every serious wine store in SoCal and most in the Bay Area but, except for Hi Time, when it comes to a premium selection of Argentine wines you can fuggedaboudid. [ed. this opinion since softened by actually locating desirable Argentina wines in a few accessible stores...as reported below].
By the way, I had not been to the legendary OC wine store - Hi Time Wine Cellars - in at least 15 years. The selection is outstanding, comprehensive and DEEP. The buyers are doing a super job.
So I do the best I can and buy what I can find in LA. Here is my story.
2007 Zolo Torrontes $8.50: So here is the good news. In the few weeks I have been working the 5/405 corridor for evidence of decent Argentine wine I found this delightful Torrontes; first at $11 in Long Beach (Wine Country in Long Beach, nice store) then the Missus found it in Gelsons for even less. This is everything I want in Argentine wine. Floral nose, pears and peaches on the palate with firm acids to give it more than just a sappy flabby flavor. From grapes grown at 3,000 feet in La Rioja. Torrontes is the all-purpose all-star grape. Purr-fect. At 13.5 % it is a bit stout. Spectator gave it an 86. Every time I see a Spectator rating I actually snicker. Oh, not quite up to an 87 you say? How about 8.5 as in dollars and cents.
2007 Elsa Bianchi Torrontes $8: Purchased at K&L Hollywood. From San Rafael which is in the southern part of Mendoza province, about 1,000 ft above sea level. Lively fruit, floral nose. Summer wine. Very nice. Has some Riesling character. Held up well over next 3 days. A great buy for an outdoor June wedding. 12.5%
2006 Orfila Torrontes $10: It means something when a 30 million case winery can produce a wine this nice. Here is what it means. Torrontes from Salta's Cafayate valley is the mark of excellence. This wine has the mineral and acid backbone we love in summer wines along with the Torrontes Rielsing-like character. Fab. Of course, good luck finding it. I found it in the Hollywood Carniceria Argentina. Next to the soap. 13.3%
2006 Don David Reserve Torrontes $16: Michel Torino Estate from Cafayate vineyards above Salta at 5600 ft. Right away the alcohol (13.9%) is evident. Gives it spine. More intense fruit on the nose and in the mouth. Showing stronger character and impresses us over the Elsa. Overnight it turns into Limoncello with the alcohol overtaking the fruit. I prefer the Elsa!
2003 / 2004 Vistalba Corte B $25: I tasted the 2004 in Mendoza. I found the 2003 at my local vendor, Woodland Hills Wine Co. We tasted it in Mendoza at the Carlos Pulenta bodega. There is also a Corte A and Corte C. Corte is the term commonly used to signifiy a blended wine. In the 2003 vintage (14.2%) the blend is Malbec (42%), Cabernet (32%), Bonnarda and Merlot. The 2004 blend (14.5%) tasted in Mendoza blended Malbec (57%), Cabernet (30%) and there is no Merlot. The 2004 was $31 on the La Bourgogne wine list. The wine shows luscious blueberries. Judged it excellent and resolved to buy it in LA. The 2003 has one quarter less Malbec. The Cabernet is more prominent and there is no Merlot. The Cabernet dominates the flavors...for the worse. A fruity keeper, dense, if you like Cab. If you like what Merlot does with Malbec...and I definitely do...look for the 2004.
2005 Vistalba Corte C $11: Found it at Hi Time in Costa Mesa. Not bad, not great. 85% Malbec and the rest Merlot. The blend I prefer but this is ripe, high acid fruit. Not balanced. Open over three days. Should have opened. The Merlot proportion could and should contribute more if it were closer to 30%. Alcohol at 14%.
2004 Salentein Malbec $19: Estate bottling from one of the premier Valle de Uco wineries. Bought this in the Argentinan Carniceria in North Hollywood. I was on the hunt! I did not taste many Salentein wines in Argentina but those I did taste I liked. None were Malbec. Finding the 2004 vintage is cool as the current release is 2006. Vineyards are just below 4,000 ft. Tannins have softened. Dotoré says lay it down and I think I will. High valley mineral fruit. Hint of citrus.
2005 Benvenuto de la Serna $15: This Uco Valley winery produces single grape wines from Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauv and Merlot. Thank goodness they also produce this 60/40 Malbec/Merlot wine. Fruity and forward to be sure. Also tasty and balanced. Ended up the popular bottle on this evening. Purchased at K&L. 13.5%
2006 Bundini Malbec $7: A screwtop cap (good!). A fruity blend that goes down easy. This is your go-to-BBQ blend. Purchased at K&L. I would guess Lujan fruit. Ripe, soft. So much comes out of there it is only a matter of time before there are custom crushes galore.
2003 Salentein Pinot Noir $19: Another wine reminiscent of something we tasted in Mendoza. We had the 2005 at the Bodegas Salentein. It was 15.5% alcohol and fruity. This is not. Flavors at coffee and caramel. Could be storage as I bought this at a carniceria in Hollywood. Another example of what is on the shelves in the darnedest places. Because, there is an Argentine community who will buy these wines and nobody knows any different. Until now.
2005 Mendel Malbec $24: Old vines (70 years plus). Rich, coffee and caramel flavors. Another bottle readily available throughout SoCal. Does not make my tongue twitch.
2005 La Posta Cocina $16: 60% Malbec, 20% Bonnarda and 20% Syrah. Nice to see Syrah is grown in Mendoza. Rich flavors, bright fruit. Italian style. The Bonnarda changes everything. A better blend than with Cab but not my fave.
2005 Kaiken Malbec Reserva $12: This is one of the Argentine wines that made my hot list in Mendoza. Bought at Wine Country in Signal Hill (ask for Nancy).This wine is nicely structured which means it holds together, presenting a consistent palate of ripe dark fruit backed by moderate tannins and balanced overall. Long finish that is wholly pleasing. Has 7% Cabernet Sauvignon which works well in this amount giving the wine some added character. Blows away the Corte C. 14.6%
To summarize, the good news is that Torrontes can be found. I think I would buy any Torrontes just to see what it was like. It is that steady. The bad news is not one of the Argentine wines purchased in and around LA that are reviewed here were tasted in Argentina. I did find earlier vintages of the same label and varietal which was better than nada. And I did discover wines from regions I recognized and favored which was good. However, I remain on the hunt for the wines that stuck a hook in my brain as I stared at the Andes.
Availability Update: I contacted the importer for Andeluna wines and was provided a list of 13 SoCal shops that carry Andeluna wines. I did a web search for half and found one Andeluna wine in stock; Andeluna's lowest end product. The importer, San Francisco Wine Exchange, says they just received their container with the reserves so I should look for these in fine wine shops served by California distributor Henry Wine Group. I did find their 2005 Malbec Winemakers Selection at The Wine House in West LA for $11. Not exactly what I was looking for but certainly worth a try. Hey - I bought those plastic tasting glasses for under $2 apiece. Nice value. Hope they are neutral.
Bottom line, last word, final say...while there are many nice Argentina wines to be found in LA, we are not getting the really great wines. And these wines we are not getting do not cost more than $20 (well maybe the Bressia). Conclusion? An industry still in development. Looks like I gotta go back!
[ed. This is the third post on Argentina wines. While we are trying to mix things up with other reviews and stories tBoW is not close to being finished with Argentina wines. There are two posts in the queue and a summer of asados on the horizon].
April 7, 2008
There are 1,200 bodegas in Mendoza...including Tempus Alba and Achaval Ferrer
For the busy readers of this blog who just want the purity of essence, here are the highlights in brief: (1) when touring Mendoza bodegas you need a driver and reservations; (2) the bodegas we visited in Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu made excellent wine, and (3) Valle de Uco is the must-see region. The photo is one view from Achaval Ferrer in Lujan de Cuyo.
One of the highlights of any trip to Mendoza is touring the bodegas (wineries, schmendrick). This is not Napa, or Sonoma or Paso, or Bordeaux, or Piemonte, or Languedoc. It is most like Languedoc in that the bodegas are spread out few and far between. And everywhere there are vineyards. It is Argentina and has quite possibly the world's finest growing conditions for producing great wines.
We visited the following bodegas: Tempus Alba, Achaval Ferrer, Carlos Pulenta (Vistalba), Salentein, and Andeluna. We were set to taste at La Azul but we dawdled so long at Andeluna (meal o' trip) that we blew that one. I crawled through an opening hole in the entry wall and went on the grounds to take a couple photos of the very humble bodega.
Although I am working with a small sample of only five bodegas I believe they are somewhat representative of the region and the wine scene. Because there are 1,200 bodegas in Mendoza I am willing to bet no more than 100 produce more than 100,000 cases annually. The smallest of the five bodegas we visited produces about 12,000 cases (Achaval Ferrer) which leaves a lot of boutique wineries waiting to be discovered...in Mendoza province and elsewhere.
The purportedly 1,200 bodegas in Mendoza produce 70% to 80% (depending on your source) of Argentina's wine production. I purchased incomplete regional maps showing the locations of bodegas that paid to be included. Unfortunately, there is not a comprehensive bodega map available online or on the street. If there was one it would be well worth a reasonable price to the turista. [ed. I paid $10 online for a map of Recoleta Cemetery which made all the difference.] If bodegas were listed at no charge then turistas could be confident most if not all bodegas were represented. The map for Valle de Uco, for example, does not include the legendary (at least in my mind) bodega La Azul. Perhaps their meager (precious?) 500 case production does not support the cost for inclusion.
While Mendoza is the nation's dominant wine growing region there are other areas. Most notable are Cafayate north of Salta and the Rio Negro region in Patagonia. The map below gives a quick idea of Argentina's wine regions.
OK. I am officially obsessed with Bodega Colomé. Here is the same guy tasting the award winning Torrontes and Malbec on the grounds of Colomé as he puts it as high as Europe's famous ski resorts.
[ed. Colomé alert. Hi Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa (ask for Patty Quick) carries the Colomé Malbec and Torrontes. As my high school English teacher used to remind us "a word to the wise is sufficient". The Malbec is wonderful. You want the Torrontes.]
That is a lot of writing about a winery we did not visit. How about two we did?
Tempus Alba is located in the Maipu region of Mendoza about 10 kilometers outside the city. There are a couple things to make clear about bodega touring in Mendoza. Word is you need a reservation. I can verify this as every one of the wineries we pulled up to had a gate and a guard who checked his reservation list. You need a driver. It is not that the driving is so difficult. It is a matter of reading the signs, or lack thereof. We had the same guy for two days and he and his late model Chrysler van were much appreciated.
Tempus has three vineyards; one each in Valle de Uco, Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu. Their Maipu vineyard is at the lowest elevation (2,600 feet). Malbec from Maipu shows a distinct hint of citrus, i.e., orange peel, in the nose and mouth. We noticed it first in Buenos Aires at Tomo 1. Our Tempus Alba hostess confirmed it for us as we sampled a flight of seven wines on the outdoor patio [ed. prices in US$$].
2005 Tempus Alba Tempranillo $15: Notable acid backbone. Good fruit. Not my grape. 13.9% We did note that Tempranillo is a popular varietal.
2007 Tempus Alba Malbec Rosé $10: Nothing wrong with this wine except that IMHO Malbec does not an attractive rosé make. Now Syrah...that does an attractive rosé make. Channeling Yoda. 14%
2005 Tempus Alba Syrah: White pepper nose. Sweet flavor. Not like the Syrahs I know from France or California. Not bad either. 13.9%. THis was one of a few Argentine Syrahs I liked.
2005 Tempus Alba Malbec $13: Ripe, moderately tannic. Citric nose and flavor. Naranja. Bacon, cured ham. Like this one. 14.1%.
2003 Tempus Alba Pleno $22: The big finish big ticket wine. Also a medal winner. 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe figs on the nose. Fig Newtons in the flavor. Too sweet for me. Overripe. I concluded the Malbec/Cab blend is my least favorite. 14.1%
2004 Tempus Alba Cabernet Sauvignon: Rich flavors. Heavyweight cab. Not a cab guy. 14%
Next stop Achaval Ferrer, the bodega most frequently associated with excellence and achievement in Argentine winemaking, is only 10 years old. It is a partnership of six men, four Argentine investors from business and two Italians from winemaking backgrounds. While Tempus Alba refers to themselves as a big boutique (350,000 cases) Achaval Ferrer is truly a boutique bodega in spirit, intention and production.
We barrel and bottle tasted at this very impressive bodega where the commitment to excellence is authentic. Like Tempus Alba the bodega is set up for gravity flow, equipment is modern and the facility appears spanking clean. I did snap the photo below of a worker stomping down what looks like stems. Like Tempus Alba grapes originate from vineyards throughout Mendoza's finest regions, ranging in altitude from 2,000 to 3,500 feet. Achaval Ferrer is imported to Southern California by TGIC Importers and is available at local vendor Woodland Hills Wine Company.
Achaval Ferrer produces five wines; three vineyard designated (fincas), a premium blend and the normal Malbec. Interestingly, Achaval Ferrer has ceased posting tasting notes on its website! So you better get them here! Here is what we tasted from barrel...
2007 Achaval Ferrer Cabernet Sauvignon: Spicy nose. PeeWee detects tapioca (vanilla from oak?). 12 months in barrel.
2007 Achaval Ferrer Merlot: Camphor in the nose, herbal aromas. Promising.
2007 Achaval Ferrer Cabernet Franc: Balsamic nose, minty. Interesting. Good thing they blend these.
And from bottle...
2007 Quimera $40: This their premium blend of 40% Malbec, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Now we know where the grapes go. Yeasty, doughy on the nose.Tannic. Dry finish. Will take years. I will buy the blend that reverses the Cab Sauv and Cab France proportions.
The flagship wines are the single vineyard Malbecs; Finca Altamira, Finca Mirador and Finca Bella Vista. These are all outstanding wines, but one stands head and shoulders over the others. We tasted samples from the most recently released vintages.
2005 Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec $75: From a 2400 foot vineyard in the Medrano region of Mendoza. 12 months in barrel. Pronounced citrus flavors. 577 cases produced. 13%.
2005 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec $75: The Valle de Uco vineyard at 3,600 feet. Tea on the nose. Acidic. Warm finish. Chewy, caramel. You would think it was higher alcohol but only 13%. 670 cases.
2004 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista $100: Ladies and gentlemen we have a champion. And it will cost you. Could even be worth it although there are at least a couple competitors from Argentina in this price range. Candy flavors, Life savers. Refined. Elegant. Powdery vanilla scents and flavors. Exotic. 3,200 foot vineyard. 13.9% The 2005 and 2006 vintages of Bella Vista were lost to hail. The 2007 will be the next release. Look for it.
2006 Achaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza $18: Fruity, soft tannins. Not a keeper nor is it intended to be. Achaval Ferrer produces 8,000 cases of Malbec Mendoza from vineyards at 2,500 feet in Lujan du Cuyo and Maipu. In this price range I think there are better Malbecs. 13.5%
An example of a better wine in the U20 group is the 2005 Filus Reserve Malbec. This $12 wine from Hi Time Wine Cellars has everything I learned to enjoy in Argentine Malbec wines; Maipu fruit (Lulunta Valley, must be near Medrona [ed. in fact it is]), no Cabernet in the blend (in fact it is 100% Malbec), and low alcohol. Has the mocha and citrus like an exotic dark chocolate bar from Venezuela and the tannins to go a few years. Turns out Filus produces the La Boca label that can be found in TJs. [ed. Tell them you met the guy in Mendoza who designed the label]. Congrats to Patty Q for picking this one out of the pack. Heads up: Filus bottles single vineyards. Checkumout Patty! Something tells me there are plenty more bodegas like this one in Mendoza's pool of 1,200.
That was one half day touring. Next up Salentein and Andeluna in the spectacular Valle de Uco.
May 20, 2008
The BEST of Argentina: Top 9 Wines
Hopefully, you have read the posts on bodega touring in Lujan and Maipu and Valle de Uco, dining and wining in Mendoza, and Argentine wines found and purchased in LA. Here is the list of the best wines tasted by the tBoW team in Mendoza. We have tasted other Argentine wines found in SoCal but they are not covered in this post.
Where possible, I am providing the importer, distributor and retailer in LA or anywhere. Lets' get to it.
tBoW's TOP NINE WINES FROM ARGENTINA...
One more minute. Let me tell you about the best restaurant in Buenos Aires that is not a tourist steakhouse where we found #9...
Tomo 1 (uno) is on the second story above a cheesy hotel close to downtown Buenos Aires. The room has about 20 tables. A couple of sisters well past their 60s moved their San Telmo restaurant to this location in order to go upscale (and probably post higher prices in line with all the praise they received for their inventive and peerless dishes.) Moving from San Telmo is like going from the East Village to Midtown. At least. We had three long term memorable meals in Argentina, one in Buenos Aires. This was it. We ordered five desserts: 2 dulce de leches (the Missus still seeking close replication for Argentina's caramel classic); an apple tartane; and two desserts that sounded so incredible we had to try both. First, a scoop of arugula sherbet with cardomon ice cream on top. Outrageously good. Indescribable. I will forget my birth town before I forget this. Second, pink grapefruit wedges in a gewurtztraminer and pear soup. Served in a martini glass. Uncle Don would call it fruit cocktail but then he refers to cordon bleu as ham and swiss.
Number 1 (M.I.A.)
2003 La Azul Reserve $20: What can I say. The memory fades as time passes and I fear I may never again taste my blue wine. I have borrowed an image from a touring blog Lost on Purpose. Now I am just ill that we blew this tasting. Even though we had more time with Chef Pablo at Andeluna I do think we missed something special. Blend of Malbec, Cab Sauvignon and Merlot. Woman winemaker - Flavia Manterola - from Valle de Uco. 500 case production. Sweetness in the nose. Minty, reminds me of Phelps Insignia character. Nicely balanced. Has to be more Merlot than Cab. Tasted it twice in country. Great both times. 14.3%. We will never see it!!!
Number 2 (found it! In Virginia!)
2005 Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec $26: One of the top two wines tasted in country. Amazingly, I may have found it nearby (within 100 miles). 100% Malbec juice. Smooth and thick but not like syrup. Just viscous. Deep flavors of black cherry with some polished and buffed wood. Think mahogany. Beautiful robe. Delicious nose. Winner! Pay the front line! Just so you know, tBoW also tasted the sparkler 2006 Brut Nature and the higher priced red 2004 Profundo. The sparkler was very very good. Great value at $30 and 12%. The Profundo was bought off the wine list at the fancy Pulenta restaurant; $45 and 13.5%. Over-ripe, blend of mostly Cab, Syrah, Merlot and Malbec. Fruit and charcoal. I ordered this online from Virginia. Fran Kysela via Timeless Wines is bringing it into the USA. Having some trouble getting it all the way out here on the West Coast. Like flat screens...hard to find them way out here in the western region of the country.
Number 3 (found it in SoCal!!)
2005 Colomé Malbec $25: Colomé certainly was the most enchanting bodega and we never came close to it. I refer you to the videos posted earlier. Grapes grown at 7,000 feet and wine made at their Salta area winery owned by Hess. Blend of Malbec, Tannat and Merlot. Works beautifully. Solid middle weight as so many of these wines are. Rich red purple deep blood red robe. Easy nose with aromas of spice, Maipu-like citrus quality. Well balanced. Had it with classic asado fare (grilled meats and chimichurri). Perfect fit. Get it at Hi Time Wine Cellar in Coast Mesa.
Number 4 (Henry Wine Group has it and is allegedly distributing)
2006 Andeluna Malbec $10: Buttered popcorn on the nose. Pepper, younger wine. Lean and middleweight. Excellent. Rich flavors. Unbelievable value. Hope we can find it. We should be able to. My god...what if we can't??? 14.2%. San Francisco Wine Exchange brings it in. Good luck getting information from them.
Number 5 (trophy hunters alert!! Very very rare...)
2007 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec ~$150: This is the big ticket wine from Mendoza. Has the pedigree. Most sought after wine from the most prestigious house. Small single vineyard at 3,000 plus elevation. Not blended with lesser vineyards. Refined nose. Candy flavors. Elegant. Powdery vanilla (soft tannins). The real story is the 2005 and 2006 vintages were lost to hail. So the market is thirsty for this wine. TGIC Importers brings it in. Bound to sell out. Great wine if yagottahavit!!!
Number 6 (here in Costa Mesa!!)
2007 Colomé Torrontes $15: They have it at Hi Time Wine Cellar in Costa Mesa. Blow your mind. Yellow gold color. Maximim Grunhauser meets Chateau Grillet. This bottle needs time. Buy it now and wait six months. I cannot believe I am ranking it this low. I must be biased against white wines. This wine is burning a hole in my brain. 13%
Number 7 (it is here...somewhere)
2005 Luigi Bosca Syrah $11: One of the nation's biggest producers [ed. only 1.2 million cases] proves size does not matter. Not the Syrah I might expect. Lighter and more viscous than a Chateauneuf de Papes. More like a Tablas Creek red but without that Paso ripeness. Lighter than Paso. Makes me want to taste other Argentina Syrah wines. Spicy, pepper on the nose and first taste. Well balanced. Soft. Subtle. A lovely drink. The fact it tastes so nice suggests something special about the grape in the Maipu region where the vineyard is located. Of three wines tasted at this meal (Tomo 1) this was my favorite. 14.9% Golden State Wine distributes in California. No web site.
Number 8 (see Henry Wine Group note above)
2005 Andeluna Cellars Reserve Chardonnay: As Jack Paar used to say, "I kid you not". [ed. Who was Jack Paar you old fart? Here he is interviewing Jonathan Winters. I know who was...] Outstanding wine. The first chardonnay I have tasted in a LONG time that is memorable. Some sulfur on the nose, minerals, green olives. Not your Napa banana boat. No oak flavors. Meringue. Grown at 4,000 feet. 12 months in French oak. Michel Rolland consulting here. Henry rep says try Whole Foods. That would be convenient. I called my local. Never heard of it. 13.1%.
Number 9 (M.I.A.)
2004 Arnaldo B Etchart Gran Reserva Malbec: Another premium bottle from another monster producer Etchart. A Cafayate valley (Salta region) blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauv (30%), Merlot and Tannat. These are high altitude wines (5,000 feet). Rich, ripe but without the tobacco and leather nuances tasted in other "older" Reserve wines. Very rich and just ripe enough. Not darkly brooding like a Cabernet Franc or the weighty domination of a Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak and tannins present but muted. Even and balanced. Very good wine. Even the cab grows better in Salta. 14.5%
Bonus video:
While searching for the distributor or Arnaldo B Etchart I came across this video in which Arnaldo Etchart is interviewed at his Cafayate estate. It is in Spanish and I cannot see how to shrink the image. No matter. The video is worth viewing just to get a sense of what this northernmost region in Argentina looks like. The rustic environment reminds me of Guadalupe Valley in Baja California.
December 6, 2008
Cellar rats and other tasty vermin
Here dey come. You know what I'm talkin' 'bout.
HOLIDAYS. So get out your stocking hat and start diggin'...see what you got layin' round the cellar, or stuck back in the closet. Guests comin' and they have expectations! Here's a couple snorts tBoW found for hanging out on Jay Z's yacht when he runs out of Cristal.
2007 La Yunta Torrontes $5: Leftover from the Argentina Discovery. I am pretty sure I found this Torrontes in a local Chimmichurra market. Hails from the La Rioja region which is halfway between Mendoza and Salta (northernmost wine region bordering Bolivia). Juice from the 40+ year old vines is aged 6 months in French oak. Pretty fancy! And it tastes good, too. Bright, lemon-lite fruit. Fresh, good acid backbone. Excellent wine and before the meltdown I would have said outstanding value at $15. A definite re-buy and a strong candidate for the end-of-year-two Best of tBoW wines list (summer 2009). The alcohol is also commendably restrained at 12.5%
2007 Andaluna Torrontes $10: FINALLY. After striking out upon return from Argentina with NO HELP from the Andeluna distributor I found this wine on clearance in Bristol Farms. The wine is pale toned. Bright fruit with typical Torrontes acid. Citrus flavors. Firm. Torrontes remains an undiscovered grape that easily fits with the world's most versatile varietals. Love it. Read what tBoW had to say about Andeluna following his visit there. 13.3%
The next three wines are Pinot Noir representing California's three principal growing regions known for Pinot Noir. These wines make a worthwhile contrast of the regions' qualities.
2002 Ojai Vineyard Clos Pepe Pinot Noir $50: A wine with this much pedigree must deliver on its promises. Of course, we have had so much disappointment lately with big pimpin' (spendin' the G's) pedigree wines that we now approach them with caution. Here is Adam Tolmach, legendary practically-a-hermit winemaker, original Rhone Ranger, crafter of the original "acid" wines so intense they were hallucinogenic. Then we have Wes Hagen, famously meticulous grower extraordinaire of SRH Pinot Noir, winemaker at SRH flagship winery Clos Pepe, notoriously enthusiastic La Purisima golfer. Something great had to happen. And it did. At six years the color is dark, the juice is viscous (thick), and the nose is...slightly closed. Earthy, spicy but not like a Pinot Noir. Smells like a Bordeaux. But it tastes like a Pinot Noir. In fact it tastes like the quintessential big and brooding Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. At first the flavor profile is narrow, singular. Closed. Then she opens and she is big and beautiful, still lean and smoky with gorgeous fruit. And the alcohol is acceptable at 14%. A very good job all round!
2004 Davis Family Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir $35: Ripe, in your face, up front fruit. Bright and showy. A crowd pleaser for wine drinkers in love with the style. Not nearly as intense as the Ojai Clos Pepe and certainly not restrained as the next wine from Oregon. However, the wine has its own charms; great pinot fruit, moderate alcohol, and easy to swallow. 14.1%
2005 Belle Pente Murto Vineyard Dundee HIlls Pinot Noir $34: The very successful birthday tasting where we broke out the 1998 Lange Pinot Noir prompted an immediate tBoW hunt to assess the current state of Oregon Pinot Noir. We learned you will not find many U20 wines. But you can buy wines at the $35 price point that are very nice. This is one. The fruit is sourced from 6 acres devoted to Belle Pente in the Murto vineyard. This is their 10th vintage. Current 2006 release is 828 cases. Recommended by venerable Woodland HIlls Wine Company staff the wine showed dark color and a peppery nose. Initial flavor has some green olive. The wine showed complexity opening up to reveal mild smokiness and deep dark pinot fruit. Definitely a New World wine and definitely without the ripeness seen with both SRH and RRV efforts. tBoW would return for more, especially in the current economic climate should it go on sale! Note and applaud the low alcohol. 12.9%
April 11, 2009
What makes a wine(maker) great?
Winemakers are somewhat like doctors. There is a lot of talent in the pool but the great ones are uncommon and especially hard to find because there aren't any bad winemakers. Think about it. Who ever says "I have a horrible doctor" or "she is an awful winemaker". There ain't no sech animal. [ed. here is a doctor right now who knows the difference - and where he belongs - in front of Kenneth-Crawford "winery" in Buellton]
Family docs (like big house winemakers) are never stars. We need them and value them but all we are looking for is reliability over time, no diagnostic mistakes, and the ability to make a good referral when one is needed. The grind-it-out primary care guy keeps the whole thing going but the specialists are the stars. In wine their equivalent is the boutique winemaker. If you ever needed a surgeon or a specialist, then you will recognize how everybody you know wants to send you to their knee guy or shoulder cutter who is always "the best" in his field. How do you really know? How can every specialist - or every boutique winemaker - be the best?
If doctors ran baseball [ed. here he goes] every pitcher would go undefeated and every batter would hit a thousand. Same with winemaking. Every boutique has a star winemaker. And like Helen Turley or Michel Rolland s/he is all over the scene. For the record, consider three under-the-radar winemakers Jim Moore (l'Uvaggio di Giacomo), Bob McKenzie (McKenzie-Mueller) or David Croix (Camille Giroud). Virtually zero hype, comparatively small operations. Consistently fine products at multiple price points.
There is really only one way to find the "best" doctor. Ask his peers. Or try her out. Fortunately, you can try winemakers out at much lower stakes than doctors (see above three examples of low risk and potentially high payout). How would we know when we have found the best winemaking specialist? How do doctors know who is best among their peers? The best ones keep showing up at the most important meetings where they are the speakers. In wine the best winemakers show up on everybody else's label without being named because the other label owners know who is making the best wines. Until they finally start their own.
Kenneth Gummere and Mark Crawford Horvath made wine for other labels in the Santa Rita HIlls for at least a couple seasons [ed. probably still do]. They formed their own wine label Kenneth-Crawford in 2001 when they released their fist few bottlings. Their style is in your face overwhelming without being too bombastic. In a word their wines are seductive. They immediately impress. They are voluptuous. They make you want more. They also tend to be high in alcohol but the fruit is so pure that the 15%+ alcohol levels are seldom an intruding presence. We report on two wines made by the duo; one under another SRH label and one under their own.
2003 Babcock Cargasacchi Pinot Noir $30: This wine was tasted and purchased at the 2004 Wine Cask Futures Tasting, now an event of the past. The 2004 tasting was the first of three the tBoW team attended. This wine was the star, the find, the wine that tBoW and Dotoré had to have. The wine went through a dumb phase lasting almost two years when it was just awful. [ed. AWFUL] Patience has been rewarded. The wine is showing reddish-brown brick coloring. The nose is caramello. The alcohol is detectable but, characteristically for these guys' wines, not weighty enough to make the wine go tilt. The dumb phase is thankfully past! This is brown sugar, sour cherry, spicy and beautifully balanced. This wine is at its peak. The remaining bottles will be gone by Labor Day. 13.8%
2004 Kenneth-Crawford Evans Ranch Syrah Santa Rita Hills $50 (good luck finding it): Bought this one the following year at the same tasting. This was also the last tasting at which we purchased wine. The last year we attended, 2006, the selection was more limited and the winemakers started holding back their best wines. We can say now (although we understood it then) it was the beginning of the end. Another sexy, luscious wine. Full and warm. Floral nose with a capital F. Alcohol present but in check. Like a cool mountain spring in the mouth which for a full bodied red is remarkably refreshing. Wonderfully balanced. Rich flavors, dark fruit, middleweight. The wine reminds us that Syrah is truly the best varietal coming out of Santa Rita HIlls. Just enough acid to keep you sharp. 15.3%
Then there are the family docs of wine. Here is the Nanni group from Argentina's Cafayate Valley. One year ago tBoW was touring Mendoza and loving it. The posts that followed positively gushed with praise and wonder. We did not get to the Cafayate Valley which is near Salta in the northwest corner adjacent to Bolivia.
This region looks like a must-visit; high mountain desert (6,000 feet plus), endless arid valleys filled with vineyards, 37 bodegas including Bodega Nanni. Happily, there is plenty of info to be found on the Internet so you are encouraged to go forth and seek. Special thanks to Nikki Knaddison at Denver Spanish House for help learning about Bodega Nanni and all things Latino.
Here are a couple of excellent links: A two year old travel blog that stopped at Bodega Nanni and explored the Cafayate Valley. Nice photos. An excellent cultural site that describes the Bolivian Indian influence is found here. I really like the link at Denver Spanish House. She describes other wineries in the region.
Highlights for Bodega Nanni are organically farmed, 400,000 bottle boutique all local production, family-held for nearly 100 years. tBoW bought the three workhorse wines at the local Whole Foods. Here is what we found.
2007 Bodega Nanni Torrontes $8: You read it right. These wines are absurdly inexpensive and represent the best quality/price ratio since this blog began. Torrontes is a Spanish varietal long disappeared from Spain, decimated by phyloxera. It does exceptionally well in Argentina and especially in this arid high mountain region. This wine is fresh and fruity similar to a Quince wine. A bit tart. Oily texture. Middle weight. 13.3%
2006 Bodega Nanni Malbec $9: Get used to it. This is what these wines cost...over here. Very rich and ripe, almost syrupy. Dark berries abound. Dark chocolate. A chocolate covered cherry in a bottle. Dotore' offers "this year's Malbec is last year's Cabernet Franc." OK with that insight. 14.2%
2006 Bodega Nanni Tannat $8: Another surprise. This is very good Tannat. Must do well in the climate and location because tBoW was not impressed with Tannat tasted in country. This has dark fruit, blackberry. More substantial and better balanced than the Malbec. tBoW remembers the Malbecs from Maipu near Mendoza as particularly charming. This wine is preferred to the Malbec. 14.3%
June 27, 2009
Summer wine time
Rosé, Moscato d'Asti, fresh fruity bracingly acidic and low alcohol white wines. These are summer wines we have learned to adore. And every summer brings a new batch. What is it about summer wines that seem so fresh and new soon as the weather gets hot? As Dotoré might say these are the best days of the year.
2008 Le Saint Andre Vin de Pays du Var Rosé $11: Rosé de Provence that is 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and CInsault. Light salmon color. Tastes like a lightweight non-fizzy soda yet serious in a summer rosé context. Like it fine but it ain't the killer summer wine we know will eventually turn up. 12.5%
2007 Vida Organica Torrontes $8: Argentina's great white wine [ed. must you say this every time?] this from Mendoza produced by the Zuccardis, wine royalty in the heart of Argentina's wine country. Floral nose so common to Torrontes. Good acid and medium weight. Tropical flavors just like the label says. Torrontes is consistently lush with natural acidity that brightens it up. Viscosity makes it almost beefy. These are organic grapes, purchased at Whole Foods. It is a real deal at this price. Screw cap and 12.6%
2006 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Cote du Rousillon Villages $24: The red version of the white wine from the same house. Imported by Weygandt. Dark almost black red color. Red berry fruit flavors. A village wine which means it is not very complex or it is exactly what you would expect to find in a local restaurant in southwest France. Put this next to your Qupe Syrah at $12. Is this Gauby twice as good? Is it worth another $12? I think it is twice as interesting as the Qupe but problem is there are some really nice Pinot Noir wines or otherwise in the same price range. So I would rather have the Gauby than the Qupe but then I wold rather buy the Dewey Kelly than both. 13.5%
2007 Belle Pente Wlliamette Valley Pinot Noir $19: Purchased at local wine shop WHWCo. Wanted to visit this the winery when up there last month but they were closed on Sunday. tBoW has reviewed Belle Pente wines a 2005 specific vineyard before. That was in the $30+ range. This is the entry level and we wanted to see if the quality trickled down into lumpen land. Color is light red brown as we expect in a 2007 Oregon PN. Looks like it is aging but it is not. More like tomato soup with burnt red peppers. There is no hint of oxidation. It is just a lighter vintage. The nose is all about the forest floor. Mushrooms, wet decaying leaves, earth. I know it sounds just awful but it is actually decadent. The wine is yummy and I would buy it again. An excellent example of what one can expect from the 2007 vintage in Willamette Valley. At $18 it is a U20 winner. Sorry Gauby. 12.5%
September 4, 2009
Summer evenings. Warm bodies. Temp controlled wines.
LA the city as brasserie. Flames fan the hills. Corks get pulled. Once for Dotoré's 60th. 
Again for RB's departure. Friends mix, barely familiar. Zins and Cabs here. Pinot Noirs there. Fruity whites cross all snob lines. Wine greases the wheels. Everyone loosens up. Even the tighties. Almost everyone. Birthday boy pulls the cork on two Melville bad boys. tBoW pops a double mag and a 26 year old port. Different fetés. Same classic soul mix with 60's thrash. Dotoré and tBoW the only fans.
So what got poured...it's all right here.
1997 Ca' Moreis Sandro Fey $50 (jeroboam): Poor man's Barolo from the region's best producer. Middle weight Nebbiolo from the Italian Alps. Not meant to age so no wonder the color is brown and red brick. Coffee nose, herbal flavors. Soft, lean. Balanced, spicy. A perfect night to pull this cork. 13%
2009 Crios Torrontes $12: Susan Bilbo's classic white from Argentina. Drink it now. Fresh cantaloupe in a glass. Cousin Gar asks if it is Viognier crossed with Riesling. Nice instincts. Every new winemaker should start with Torrontes - the wine you can't screw up. 12%
The guests will eventually dictate the wine lineup so you know in advance what you'll be tasting. At the birthday this meant a descent into big fruit Napa wines...and a couple of bad boys from the Central Coast.
2004 Vincent Arroyo Entrada Napa Wine $65: Mostly Syrah (62%) with a solid Cabernet paunch 23% and a 15% Petite Syrah kick. The only big California grape left out is...that's right...Zinfandel. Carob flavors, i.e., dark chocolate. Thick, heavy weight. Reaching for the Silver Oak style. Not much tannin. Heavy wines should have tannins or they come off mushy. Are you ready for the sex girls? 14.3%
2005 Quintessa $55: Big ticket Napa Bordeaux blend. Lots of Merlot in the mouth. Soft delicious fruit. Balanced. And mushy. 14%
2002 Melville Carrie's Pinot Noir $60 (at winery on release): The LEGEND. The wine Dotoré had to have or be hounded by fever dreams. This isn't wine. It's MMA in a bottle. Seven years ago it was brutal, nasty, ready to take off your head. Now it is somewhat weedy. The fruit has yielded to the alcohol. All that's left is vanilla from what must have been a thorough oaking. Deliciously stupid. 16.1%
2002 Melville Carrie's Syrah $55: A wine only an investor could love.
I like to imagine this is the wine that drove the family apart. Like it's sister the Pinot It is just huge. Together these bottles are the Williams sisters of wine. 16.1%
As though the fires in the hills extinguished and a strong ocean wined blew all the smoke somewhere over the desert...there was one more entry.
2006 Stevenson-Barrie Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $32: Cuzzin Gar slipped this one in honoring the Pinot lovin' Dotoré. After having our palates carpet bombed this excellent Oregon wine helped tBoW re-calibrate. Coming from the fruity ripe 2006 vintage the wine actually fit in well. Creamy oak, smells and tastes like PN. 14%
What do you do when the "revenue river" decides he should redirect his course to the Middle East? Same thing we do every weekend. With a bit more subdued crowd, selfishly selected to suit tBoW's taste. The wine choices were more familiar. We skip the whites report except to say there were two goodies: a 2005 Macon Village from Kermit Lynch, matched with a 2005 Dirler Pinot Gris from Alsace. Both were quite pleasing, a cut above and U20s.
2006 Williams Selyem Westside Road Neighbors $100: The first time tBoW has tasted this blend of Russian River premium Pinot Noir. Tannic, exotic, viscous, Plums and blueberries. This was an exciting bottle. The most notable WS tasted in quite a while. 14.2%
1996 Rochioli Three Corners Vineyard $475 (?!?): The wine held form like we would expect from California's most collectible Pinot Noir. Sweet flavors, slight volatile acidity. Focused and balanced. Coffee and toffee flavors. 14.2%
1983 Smith Woodhouse Oporto $35 in split ($9 sticker!): Wow. Port in a split makes such sense. It is so hard to finish a 750 ml bottle at the end of a meal featuring great wines. You have to have 8 solid citizens to make a dent. But, a split is just perfect. This wine was smooth, soft, with stuffing. Dark red, sweet but focused. Each pour was drained . Threw sediment in the split! A perfect port. xx%
October 9, 2009
Argentina Embassy Tasting: Part One
Who knew Argentina has a Promotion Centre in Los Angeles. Consul Adjunto Jose Cafiero sent out invitations to the right people who showed up on a lovely early fall late afternoon to check. Sr. Cafiero promoted six Mendoza wineries that would love to be represented in Los Angeles. All they need is an importer and/or distributor.
tBoW documented a March 2008 Argentina trip that left a powerful impression of the wonderful and abundant wines, the perfect growing conditions, and the excellent values. 
We may not have mentioned how gorgeous is the country and the people. Argentina has a preponderance of spectacular scenery and easy-to-look-at citizens. Today's post is peppered with handsome Argentines pouring their wines. Even their feet are attractive.
The tasting was set in the back yard of the Consul residence. Nothing fancy. Six wineries looking for partners. If there is a downside to Argentine wines it is the difficulty finding them. Distribution in the USA is at best sporadic which was the point of this exercise. A tasting like this is a great way to make a match.
Karma Wine Group showed five wines. The "story" is how a Tibetan guardian priest fled with the Dahli Lama and eventually settled in Mendoza where he started making wine. His wines were being poured by Gary Parker, the owner of San Diego's excellent WineSellar and Brasserie, a ground-breaking restaurant and wine store celebrating 21 years in business. Gary's once unique concept is now widely copied. These wines were all under $20 making Karma the best price to quality ratio table at the tasting. There were other wines we preferred but no other table with this consistency at the U20 price level.
2009 Karma Sauvignon Blanc $10: Fruity, slight grassiness. Fruity with a bubble gum aroma and flavor. Slightly tannic. Good wine at a great price. 13%
2009 Karma Chardonnay $12: 100% Steel fermented. No aging in oak. Good fruit. Perfect restaurant $5-pour-by-the-glass-wine.13.2%
2008 Karma Torrontes $13: Bright fruit. Clean flavors. Best in the flight. From Salta region where great Torrontes comes from. 13%
2006 Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Premium Reserve $18: Cherries on the nose. Gets 6 months French oak. Medium weight. Slightly vegetal that gives character. A U20 winner. 14%
2007 Karma Malbec Gran Reserva Old VInes: Did not get the price. Very nice middle weight wine. Good stuffing. Citric flavors characteristic of Maipu vines. Went back for it. 14%
Bodega Viniterra showed the typical lineup of entry, middle and top level reds. But they also showed a couple of unique bottles; 15 bottles in all! Grapes from Mendoza's premium Lujan de Cuyo region located at 3,400 foot elevations. The commitment to premium winemaking is evident.
2008 Viniterra Pinot Grigio $11: Delightful wine with a minty powder puff nose. Sweet but not too much so. Soft body, fragrant nose. U20 value wine. 14%
2008 Viniterra Viognier $15: No foxy flavors we dislike in the varietal. Like Malbec, another example of how the region or country changes the profile of a particular varietal. Nice enough. 14%
2008 Viniterra Chardonnay $15: Pour it by the glass in your restaurant. Cannot go wrong. 13.5%
NV Viniterra Sparkling Extra Brut Champenoise Method $22: 980% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Very pale salmon. Yeasty nose. Mucho mousse. doughy flavors, dry. Very nice and low alcohol. 12.5%
2008 Terra Sparkling Malbec: Think of sparkling Buguey or Lambrusco. Only this is much nicer. Red color and a solid spritz. This wine could make it here. Not your fruity summer pink sparkler. A butch sparkling red. Very nice effort. 12.5%
2007 Viniterra Pinot Noir $16: Your basic New World fruity forward, middle weight Pinot Noir. If you like California Pinot then you will be very happy with this wine especially since you are going to pay half to a third of the normal California Pinot Noir price. Forward fruit with lots of cherry flavors. Mrs. tBoW liked it just fine thank you. 14%
2006 Viniterra Select Carmenere $18: tBoW missed the memo on the history of the Carmenere grape...you know - wiped out by phyloxera in Europe mid-19th century memo to be discovered in Chile in the 20th where it is used as the basic blending grape in red wines. That one. Highly perfumed nose. Tastes Italian with plenty acid and lean fruit, especially for Argentina. Violets in a glass. Kind of sweet like a ripe Sangiovese. 14%
2006 Viniterra Select Malbec $18: Fruity with plenty of stuffing. Middle weight and muscular. 12 months in French and American oak. Balanced and rich. Very tasty and excellent U20 value. Can they really sell it at this price? 14%
These are two of the best wineries presenting. Karma with its narrow range and Viniterra with everything under the sun represent the variety and range of wines available in Argentina. We present the other two that impressed in the next post.
October 23, 2009
Argentina Embassy Tasting: Part Two
Argentina is U20 nirvana!! This post continues our report on the Argentina wineries tasting hosted by the Argentine Promotion Center in Los Angeles. All six wineries that showed were very good. However, four stood out as especially fine.
La Garde Winery presents itself as the old guard of Mendoza wineries...which it is [ed. pictured below]. They claim and aim to represent the long established tradition of fine winemaking in Argentina where terroir comes first. The winery was founded by a Spanish family in 1897 and sold to an Italian family in 1977. One distinguishing characteristic is the comparatively low production which is limited to 60,000 cases annually; small by Argentine standards. 
Their vineyards feature any old vine plantings located in the premium regions of Lujan de Cuyo and Tupungato Valley. Pride of ownership and old guard values are openly promoted. Worth seeking out.
2008 LaGarde Viognier $14: Rightly proud as the first winery to cultivate this varietal. Like the Viniterra version this is not foxy. Has glue-like nose. With lots of fruit, young and rich. 14.8%
2009 LaGarde Sauvignon Blanc $10: Grassy nose but not overwhelming. Fruit outweighs grass on the palate which is always good.
2008 Altas Cumbres Malbec $10: The entry level Malbec. Dividing the wines into entry level and above is very common. The purpose is to distinguish young vines from older, and reserve wines from premium. See? That is the problem. Grade levels imply less versus more, good versus not as good. But in marketing like children's birthday parties we cannot have lesser or not as good wines like we cannot have one kid getting all the gifts. But we digress. This is fruity stuff with plenty of body and at this price it is a U20 bargain. 14%
2007 LaGarde Cabernet Sauvignon $15: There are many many Cabernets like this one in Napa. Only they cost 400% more. Fruity, rich, heavy weight. 14%
2008 LaGarde Malbec $15: There are NOT ANY Malbecs like this in Napa. Rich, focused, liqeuer flavors. Tons of chocolate and cranberry. Your basic Turkey killer wine. Both wines are in the Reserva line, one step above entry level Altas Cumbres. 14%
2007 LaGarde Malbec DOC $20: In the US the label says Special Selection. This is the Major Drummond single vineyard of 100 year old vines, although the fellow pouring confided they blend it with 50 year old vines. It was exceptional. If the price is right [ed. $20 ain't right enough?] then we should split a case. 14%
2006 Henry No. 1 $50: The big ticket blend of 50% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Syrah. The blend can vary year to year. Juan Roby is the winemaker who selects and blends the best fruit production from the five vineyards in each vintage. This is very much like a Bordeaux blend, although quite young right now. Forward and rich style of a St. Julien. Not tBoW's style, preferring the single vineyard Malbec. 14%
These are the guys from Bodegas Lontué whose wines we tasted, liked, but did not review. Their wines are from Santa Rosa which is about 60 km south of Mendoza; a hotter region at sea level. Very good value wines.
Bodega Mi Terruño is a family owned winery with holdings in Mendoza's Maipu, Lujan de Cuyo and Uco Valley regions. Style is very similar to Bodega Viniterra; tiny production - only 8,000 cases here - and commitment to quality. 
Both presented a full array covering the spectrum of white and red wines and a couple of unexpected ringers. Happily, both bodegas make excellent wine.
2009 Mi Terruño Torrontes $11: Mealy, high tone, structured. Nicest Torrontes here. From Santa Rose vines. Would seek this one out. Good acid. Very good effort. An absolute steal at this price. 13.9%
2007 Mi Terruño Malbec Rosé $10: What a nice surprise. Grapefruit flavors, good acid. 13%
2008 Mi Terruño Reserve Malbec $16: Fruity, mild tannins. The notorious entry level wine. Very good. 13.5%
2008 Mi Terruño Malbec Limited Reserva $22: Half Cabernet Sauvignon from Uco Valley. Lush, lovely, middle weight. $14.2%
2007 Mi Terruño Mayacaba $50: The old vines bottle blends juice from the finest Perdriel vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo. 100% Malbec. Chewy, tannic, Rich. Primo. I could not justify spending $50 but if I did I would buy this before the LaGarde Henry blend. Female winemaker. 14.5%
After the tasting the tBoW team dined at Marino Restaurant in Hollywood. A first time for tBoW and crew. Old style Hollywood with up to date cooking and a classic old style Hollywood wine list; six pages of fairly priced Italian selections followed by three pages of first and second growth Bordeaux going back to the 70s for "da playahs". Highly recommended.
