No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene

Just flew in from Buenos Aires and boy is my palate tired.

The 14 day tour took us to Buenos Aires, Iguazu and Mendoza. I tried to poo-poo Iguazu as just another tourist trap but I was WRONG. Here is a youtube vid with a Moby track that in a very small way captures the majesty of this must-visit site for those of you traveling to Argentina. I loved Buenos Aires and the falls but this is a wine blog so let me tell you about the wine country. That means Mendoza.

Mendoza is the the name of the city and province (e.g., Los Angeles city and county). For a city of 1.400,000 the place is pretty dang relaxed. The large province is geographically diverse which is very good for the wine. The weather in the city is ideal (end of summer this time of year in the 70s). There are purportedly 1,200 wineries in the estado. A winery that produces half a million cases like Salentein in Uco Valley is not unusual. A winery that produces 500 cs such as La Azul also in the Valle de Uco (pictured below) is also not unusual although it is apparent the larger wineries get the greatest exposure...for now.

The three wine principal growing areas surrounding Mendoza proper that get the greatest exposure are Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu and Valle de Uco. There are numerous micro areas within each. Think of Lujan de Cuyo as Sonoma, Maipu as Napa and Valle de Uco as...the Rockies with vinifera. Wine is also grown north of Mendoza in San Juan (out of the province) and south in San Rafael (warmer and in Mendoza province).

There are also a couple other important growing regions, Salta to the very north with its CafayateValley and Rio Negro in Patagonia to the very south. We will discuss these regions in subsequent reports. Especially since the most impressive winery in my view comes from Salta.

I will be writing several reports. They will focus on wine quality, regional style and value. This entry reports the wines I tasted at the Vines. Forthcoming reports include bodega touring including the incredible Uco Valley, availability of wines I liked in LA, and other wines tasted including many more Malbecs.

First an observation. Wineries in the region are well represented on the Internet. In fact, web-presence is somewhat formulaic featuring Flash with music and "visionary" dialogue. In town and on the ground, thankfully, things are not so cookie cutter.

We booked lodging at the Posada de Rosas over the web and crossed our fingers. This turned out to be very fortunate as our hosts were two very charming Americans (Ellen and Riccardo) in the travel business who provided endless touts on dining, shopping and touring. Their Posada is ideally located and quite comfortable.

[ed. Ellen and Riccardo share the very strong expectation that Mendoza wine touring is about to boom. The signs are everywhere.]

The Vines of Mendoza is emblematic of the Mendoza wine boom. This outfit is (1) a tasting room with nearly 200 local wines, (2) a wine store that ships to the USA (through their wine club Acequia), (3) the original and now former wine touring service, (4) a real estate business that sells 10 acre vineyard plots for wannbe vignerons, and (5) a vineyard management service for the buyers of their vineyards. Take a breath.

I am happy to say that the folks at Vines were extremely knowledgable and helpful; in particular Carolina Escudero, Pedro Cubillos and Mariana Onofri. Just to make my point about opportunities in the Mendoza wine scene, Ms. Onofri is a certified sommelier who left La Bourgogne to join the Vines staff. La Bourgogne is the highly regarded restaurant at the Carlos Pulenta bodega (take the bodega tour, skip the lunch at LB). Pulenta is one of the major players in Argentine wine. You would think a gig like that is worth hanging onto and certainly would trump working in a wine store. Except in Mendoza where being in the right place at the right time can make a career. And The Vines appears to be the right place right now.

I tasted nine wines at the Vines. You will see they ran a gamut in price, varietal and region which is exactly what I wanted for my get-to-know-you tasting. I paid $50 which some folks might think is kind of pricey for spitting wine, and in Mendoza it might be. I cannot make a comparison since tasting wine in Mendoza is not like California where tasting rooms are open to the public all day long. Of course, that is excluding Napa's tonier wineries where $40 is de riguer and you do not get to keep the logo glass. [ed. tBoW reviewed Napa in this Nov 07 column] Wine touring and tasting is by appointment in Mendoza. Even though there are other tasting rooms in Mendoza (e.g., Marcelino Wine Shop, see Ellen at Posada de Rosas) I only tasted at the Vines. Otherwise, tasting took place at dinner (only Argentine wines were ordered) or wineries. I will say dining in Mendoza was outstanding.

Prices are in US$. Exchange is 3 pesos to 1 dollar.

2005 Gimenez Riili Perpetuum $10: Sparkling Blanc de Blanc (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir) wine from Maipu grapes. The winemaker/owner is a partner in the Vines. No alcohol or vintage. Toasty with oak notes. Walnut and green apple flavors. Really nice. I saved some for the end and lemon had emerged. 12.6%. Can we get this over here soon?

2007 Lurton flor de Torrontes $8.50: I am in love with Torrontes. I started drinking it the first chance I had when I ordered an Alta Vista Torrontes for dinner at Tomo 1 in BA. This is Valle de Uco juice. It is herbaceous with no oak. Feline character and viognier flavors. 12.5%. Not my style but I bet the Missus would have loved it.

2007 Lorca Viognier $13.50: Soon as I mentioned viognier, Pedro Cubillos, my server, brought one out. Salty nose. Very floral in the mouth. Also Valle de Uco fruit. 14%.

Time out. The photo at top is from Valle de Uco which is a region 100km south of the city. It is higher elevation, closer to the Andes and tends to produce higher tone fruit with more acid and more alcohol. Much of the big international $$ is going into Uco valley.

2007 Jose L Mounier Torrontes $5: The Vines staff love this wine. So do many other folks [ed. see Oct 07 SFgate article] so I am bucking the trend. Mounier is the winemaking veteran of Cafayate Torrontes which is the cradle of great Torrontes. His is a good story. After producing great Torrontes wines for others in the region he has opened his own small bodega (winery), small production (8,000 cs) with 25 year old vines. Except it is not my style. Full bodied, subdued nose, viscous wine. Floral nose but just too heavy for me. 13%.

Time out #2. Torrontes was described to me as a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat and/or Criolla. In fact, it is a cross between Muscat and Criolla Chico which is the Mission grape. It is not related to the Spanish Torrontes grape and aren't you glad we got that straight. It has weight (viscosity) which comes from Criolla. It has an herbaceous and/or floral nose which comes from the Muscat. However, I also tasted and smelled that distinctive Riesling petroleum component along with bright acids when made in a certain style. It comes on like a cross between a Ligurian white and a Saarburger Riesling (think Zilliken). In the least is a great summer wine. At best I think it can make a great white wine.

2007 Altosur Sophenia Sauvignon Blanc $12.50: Pedro strikes again. Mention Sauvignon Blanc and here it comes from the high altitude Finca Sophenia vineyard. Grassiness, grapefruit in the nose. What I would expect from SB. However, sexier bottom fruit. "What do you mean?" inquires Pedro. OK. the wine is weightier than I would expect. It has substance and elegance. This is from a 4,000 foot vineyard named Altosur in the Uco valley so it also has higher alcohol and acid. That's sexy isn't it? I would buy this.

2002 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon $20: Pedro poured this with pride. Carmelo Patti is a beloved long-standing local winemaker from Sicily who remains independent and true to his family style winemaking methods. Production is 50,000 cs. of which 14,000 are Cabernet Sauvignon. With 6 years on it maturity was expected. The nose is exotic with black pepper and black olive. The aroma is not heavy or dominant like we often find in Napa cabs. Color is dark red brick showing some age. Flavor is acidic but balanced. Weight is light to medium. It is like a southern Italian wine, even Sicilian. Style is old world. 13.5%. Too bad I rarely drink Cabs. But you might.

, $45: This is the big ticket big rep wine of which there are many. The Familia Zuccardi label is the premium label for one of Argentina's largest (1.25 million cases) enterprises. Call it your Argentina trophy wine. Beautiful King's robe, regal red. Strong middle palate. Otherwise pretty boring...and over-priced (although "good value" for a trophy wine). 14.5%

2005 Bressia Monteagrelo $26: Finally a Malbec and a really good one. I think it is remarkable and indicative of the diversity among Argentine wines (and the knowledge of Mr. Pedro Cubillos) that I tasted 6 wines at the Vines before getting to a Malbec. And this was the one to taste first. Bressia is a bit of a mystery. The website is under construction and I am not sure where is the winery and I did not visit there (even though Ellen offered it just did not work out). However, there is no mystery about his wines which are roundly admired and recommended. This is his Malbec from the Monteagrelo vineyard. The nose was aromatic with berry notes. Distinct chocolate and cherry flavors. Good acid. Medium weight. Seductive. We need this wine here. 13.5%.

2003 La Azul Reserve $20: A blend of Malbec, Cab Sauv and Merlot from Flavia Monterolla in the Uco Valley. She is the rare woman winemaker and bodega owner. Production is 500 cs.

Tags:

• 2002 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2003 La Azul Reserve
• 2003 Zuccardi Q Tempranillo
• 2005 Bressia Monteagrelo
• 2007 Altosur Sophenia Sauvignon Blanc
• 2007 Jose L Mounier Torrontes
• 2007 Lorca Viognier
• 2007 Lurton flor de Torrontes

You know how it is. You spend a couple weeks in Argentina including a week just in Mendoza staring at the Andes [ed. the view from Vistalba] and tasting wines and you find stuff you really like. You have to decide "do I haul some back or have some shipped?" If you want to ship a case from Argentina via DHL it will set you back $240/case. So add $20/bottle to your U20 winners. Or you can join The Vines of Medoza wine club Acequia. The Vines has much of what you like on their impressive list and they ship for a lot less ( I mean a LOT LESS) than DHL.

[ed. alert: The Wall Street Journal published an article March 29 2008 on The Vines vineyard business.]

Why not join the club? I have no problem accepting wines selected by people in which I have complete confidence, especially if they are Vines staff Mariana Onofri or Pedro Cubillos. Wait a minute. I live in LA. I can find most of these wines, especially my favorites, in Los Angeles. LA baby. Bigger than New Yawk. Anything you want.

WRONG. I returned with must-buy wines from Colomé, La Azul and Walter Bressia. Of these three I have found only the Colomé at Hi Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa! Fortunately, my tBoW tasting team supervisor who lives in Orange County had knee surgery recently so I was able to stop by and pick up more of what was certainly the most fascinating wine tBoW tasted in Argentina; that would be Colomé. I know every serious wine store in SoCal and most in the Bay Area but, except for Hi Time, when it comes to a premium selection of Argentine wines you can fuggedaboudid. [ed. this opinion since softened by actually locating desirable Argentina wines in a few accessible stores...as reported below].

By the way, I had not been to the legendary OC wine store - Hi Time Wine Cellars - in at least 15 years. The selection is outstanding, comprehensive and DEEP. The buyers are doing a super job.

So I do the best I can and buy what I can find in LA. Here is my story.

2007 Zolo Torrontes $8.50: So here is the good news. In the few weeks I have been working the 5/405 corridor for evidence of decent Argentine wine I found this delightful Torrontes; first at $11 in Long Beach (Wine Country in Long Beach, nice store) then the Missus found it in Gelsons for even less. This is everything I want in Argentine wine. Floral nose, pears and peaches on the palate with firm acids to give it more than just a sappy flabby flavor. From grapes grown at 3,000 feet in La Rioja. Torrontes is the all-purpose all-star grape. Purr-fect. At 13.5 % it is a bit stout. Spectator gave it an 86. Every time I see a Spectator rating I actually snicker. Oh, not quite up to an 87 you say? How about 8.5 as in dollars and cents.

2007 Elsa Bianchi Torrontes $8: Purchased at K&L Hollywood. From San Rafael which is in the southern part of Mendoza province, about 1,000 ft above sea level. Lively fruit, floral nose. Summer wine. Very nice. Has some Riesling character. Held up well over next 3 days. A great buy for an outdoor June wedding. 12.5%

2006 Orfila Torrontes $10: It means something when a 30 million case winery can produce a wine this nice. Here is what it means. Torrontes from Salta's Cafayate valley is the mark of excellence. This wine has the mineral and acid backbone we love in summer wines along with the Torrontes Rielsing-like character. Fab. Of course, good luck finding it. I found it in the Hollywood Carniceria Argentina. Next to the soap. 13.3%

2006 Don David Reserve Torrontes $16: Michel Torino Estate from Cafayate vineyards above Salta at 5600 ft. Right away the alcohol (13.9%) is evident. Gives it spine. More intense fruit on the nose and in the mouth. Showing stronger character and impresses us over the Elsa. Overnight it turns into Limoncello with the alcohol overtaking the fruit. I prefer the Elsa!

2003 / 2004 Vistalba Corte B $25: I tasted the 2004 in Mendoza. I found the 2003 at my local vendor, Woodland Hills Wine Co. We tasted it in Mendoza at the Carlos Pulenta bodega. There is also a Corte A and Corte C. Corte is the term commonly used to signifiy a blended wine. In the 2003 vintage (14.2%) the blend is Malbec (42%), Cabernet (32%), Bonnarda and Merlot. The 2004 blend (14.5%) tasted in Mendoza blended Malbec (57%), Cabernet (30%) and there is no Merlot. The 2004 was $31 on the La Bourgogne wine list. The wine shows luscious blueberries. Judged it excellent and resolved to buy it in LA. The 2003 has one quarter less Malbec. The Cabernet is more prominent and there is no Merlot. The Cabernet dominates the flavors...for the worse. A fruity keeper, dense, if you like Cab. If you like what Merlot does with Malbec...and I definitely do...look for the 2004.

2005 Vistalba Corte C $11: Found it at Hi Time in Costa Mesa. Not bad, not great. 85% Malbec and the rest Merlot. The blend I prefer but this is ripe, high acid fruit. Not balanced. Open over three days. Should have opened. The Merlot proportion could and should contribute more if it were closer to 30%. Alcohol at 14%.

2004 Salentein Malbec $19: Estate bottling from one of the premier Valle de Uco wineries. Bought this in the Argentinan Carniceria in North Hollywood. I was on the hunt! I did not taste many Salentein wines in Argentina but those I did taste I liked. None were Malbec. Finding the 2004 vintage is cool as the current release is 2006. Vineyards are just below 4,000 ft. Tannins have softened. Dotoré says lay it down and I think I will. High valley mineral fruit. Hint of citrus.

2005 Benvenuto de la Serna $15: This Uco Valley winery produces single grape wines from Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauv and Merlot. Thank goodness they also produce this 60/40 Malbec/Merlot wine. Fruity and forward to be sure. Also tasty and balanced. Ended up the popular bottle on this evening. Purchased at K&L. 13.5%

2006 Bundini Malbec $7: A screwtop cap (good!). A fruity blend that goes down easy. This is your go-to-BBQ blend. Purchased at K&L. I would guess Lujan fruit. Ripe, soft. So much comes out of there it is only a matter of time before there are custom crushes galore.

2003 Salentein Pinot Noir $19: Another wine reminiscent of something we tasted in Mendoza. We had the 2005 at the Bodegas Salentein. It was 15.5% alcohol and fruity. This is not. Flavors at coffee and caramel. Could be storage as I bought this at a carniceria in Hollywood. Another example of what is on the shelves in the darnedest places. Because, there is an Argentine community who will buy these wines and nobody knows any different. Until now.

2005 Mendel Malbec $24: Old vines (70 years plus). Rich, coffee and caramel flavors. Another bottle readily available throughout SoCal. Does not make my tongue twitch.

2005 La Posta Cocina $16: 60% Malbec, 20% Bonnarda and 20% Syrah. Nice to see Syrah is grown in Mendoza. Rich flavors, bright fruit. Italian style. The Bonnarda changes everything. A better blend than with Cab but not my fave.

2005 Kaiken Malbec Reserva $12: This is one of the Argentine wines that made my hot list in Mendoza. Bought at Wine Country in Signal Hill (ask for Nancy).This wine is nicely structured which means it holds together, presenting a consistent palate of ripe dark fruit backed by moderate tannins and balanced overall. Long finish that is wholly pleasing. Has 7% Cabernet Sauvignon which works well in this amount giving the wine some added character. Blows away the Corte C. 14.6%

To summarize, the good news is that Torrontes can be found. I think I would buy any Torrontes just to see what it was like. It is that steady. The bad news is not one of the Argentine wines purchased in and around LA that are reviewed here were tasted in Argentina. I did find earlier vintages of the same label and varietal which was better than nada. And I did discover wines from regions I recognized and favored which was good. However, I remain on the hunt for the wines that stuck a hook in my brain as I stared at the Andes.

Availability Update: I contacted the importer for Andeluna wines and was provided a list of 13 SoCal shops that carry Andeluna wines. I did a web search for half and found one Andeluna wine in stock; Andeluna's lowest end product. The importer, San Francisco Wine Exchange, says they just received their container with the reserves so I should look for these in fine wine shops served by California distributor Henry Wine Group. I did find their 2005 Malbec Winemakers Selection at The Wine House in West LA for $11. Not exactly what I was looking for but certainly worth a try. Hey - I bought those plastic tasting glasses for under $2 apiece. Nice value. Hope they are neutral.

Bottom line, last word, final say...while there are many nice Argentina wines to be found in LA, we are not getting the really great wines. And these wines we are not getting do not cost more than $20 (well maybe the Bressia). Conclusion? An industry still in development. Looks like I gotta go back!

[ed. This is the third post on Argentina wines. While we are trying to mix things up with other reviews and stories tBoW is not close to being finished with Argentina wines. There are two posts in the queue and a summer of asados on the horizon].

For the busy readers of this blog who just want the purity of essence, here are the highlights in brief: (1) when touring Mendoza bodegas you need a driver and reservations; (2) the bodegas we visited in Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu made excellent wine, and (3) Valle de Uco is the must-see region. The photo is one view from Achaval Ferrer in Lujan de Cuyo.

One of the highlights of any trip to Mendoza is touring the bodegas (wineries, schmendrick). This is not Napa, or Sonoma or Paso, or Bordeaux, or Piemonte, or Languedoc. It is most like Languedoc in that the bodegas are spread out few and far between. And everywhere there are vineyards. It is Argentina and has quite possibly the world's finest growing conditions for producing great wines.

We visited the following bodegas: Tempus Alba, Achaval Ferrer, Carlos Pulenta (Vistalba), Salentein, and Andeluna. We were set to taste at La Azul but we dawdled so long at Andeluna (meal o' trip) that we blew that one. I crawled through an opening hole in the entry wall and went on the grounds to take a couple photos of the very humble bodega.

Although I am working with a small sample of only five bodegas I believe they are somewhat representative of the region and the wine scene. Because there are 1,200 bodegas in Mendoza I am willing to bet no more than 100 produce more than 100,000 cases annually. The smallest of the five bodegas we visited produces about 12,000 cases (Achaval Ferrer) which leaves a lot of boutique wineries waiting to be discovered...in Mendoza province and elsewhere.

The purportedly 1,200 bodegas in Mendoza produce 70% to 80% (depending on your source) of Argentina's wine production. I purchased incomplete regional maps showing the locations of bodegas that paid to be included. Unfortunately, there is not a comprehensive bodega map available online or on the street. If there was one it would be well worth a reasonable price to the turista. [ed. I paid $10 online for a map of Recoleta Cemetery which made all the difference.] If bodegas were listed at no charge then turistas could be confident most if not all bodegas were represented. The map for Valle de Uco, for example, does not include the legendary (at least in my mind) bodega La Azul. Perhaps their meager (precious?) 500 case production does not support the cost for inclusion.

While Mendoza is the nation's dominant wine growing region there are other areas. Most notable are Cafayate north of Salta and the Rio Negro region in Patagonia. The map below gives a quick idea of Argentina's wine regions. posada in the Andean valley of Calchaqui. Nothing but high-altitude vines and wines, and peaceful (blissful?) days. Add a mountain bike and I am in heaven (and probably passed out from the elevation). Take a look at this March 2007 video shot at Colomé. I will not be happy until I am there!

OK. I am officially obsessed with Bodega Colomé. Here is the same guy tasting the award winning Torrontes and Malbec on the grounds of Colomé as he puts it as high as Europe's famous ski resorts.

[ed. Colomé alert. Hi Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa (ask for Patty Quick) carries the Colomé Malbec and Torrontes. As my high school English teacher used to remind us "a word to the wise is sufficient". The Malbec is wonderful. You want the Torrontes.]

That is a lot of writing about a winery we did not visit. How about two we did?

Tempus Alba is located in the Maipu region of Mendoza about 10 kilometers outside the city. There are a couple things to make clear about bodega touring in Mendoza. Word is you need a reservation. I can verify this as every one of the wineries we pulled up to had a gate and a guard who checked his reservation list. You need a driver. It is not that the driving is so difficult. It is a matter of reading the signs, or lack thereof. We had the same guy for two days and he and his late model Chrysler van were much appreciated.

Tempus has three vineyards; one each in Valle de Uco, Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu. Their Maipu vineyard is at the lowest elevation (2,600 feet). Malbec from Maipu shows a distinct hint of citrus, i.e., orange peel, in the nose and mouth. We noticed it first in Buenos Aires at Tomo 1. Our Tempus Alba hostess confirmed it for us as we sampled a flight of seven wines on the outdoor patio [ed. prices in US$$].

2005 Tempus Alba Tempranillo $15: Notable acid backbone. Good fruit. Not my grape. 13.9% We did note that Tempranillo is a popular varietal.

2007 Tempus Alba Malbec Rosé $10: Nothing wrong with this wine except that IMHO Malbec does not an attractive rosé make. Now Syrah...that does an attractive rosé make. Channeling Yoda. 14%

2005 Tempus Alba Syrah: White pepper nose. Sweet flavor. Not like the Syrahs I know from France or California. Not bad either. 13.9%. THis was one of a few Argentine Syrahs I liked.

2005 Tempus Alba Malbec $13: Ripe, moderately tannic. Citric nose and flavor. Naranja. Bacon, cured ham. Like this one. 14.1%.

2003 Tempus Alba Pleno $22: The big finish big ticket wine. Also a medal winner. 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe figs on the nose. Fig Newtons in the flavor. Too sweet for me. Overripe. I concluded the Malbec/Cab blend is my least favorite. 14.1%

2004 Tempus Alba Cabernet Sauvignon: Rich flavors. Heavyweight cab. Not a cab guy. 14%

Next stop Achaval Ferrer, the bodega most frequently associated with excellence and achievement in Argentine winemaking, is only 10 years old. It is a partnership of six men, four Argentine investors from business and two Italians from winemaking backgrounds. While Tempus Alba refers to themselves as a big boutique (350,000 cases) Achaval Ferrer is truly a boutique bodega in spirit, intention and production.

We barrel and bottle tasted at this very impressive bodega where the commitment to excellence is authentic. Like Tempus Alba the bodega is set up for gravity flow, equipment is modern and the facility appears spanking clean. I did snap the photo below of a worker stomping down what looks like stems. Like Tempus Alba grapes originate from vineyards throughout Mendoza's finest regions, ranging in altitude from 2,000 to 3,500 feet. Achaval Ferrer is imported to Southern California by TGIC Importers and is available at local vendor Woodland Hills Wine Company.

Achaval Ferrer produces five wines; three vineyard designated (fincas), a premium blend and the normal Malbec. Interestingly, Achaval Ferrer has ceased posting tasting notes on its website! So you better get them here! Here is what we tasted from barrel...

2007 Achaval Ferrer Cabernet Sauvignon: Spicy nose. PeeWee detects tapioca (vanilla from oak?). 12 months in barrel.

2007 Achaval Ferrer Merlot: Camphor in the nose, herbal aromas. Promising.

2007 Achaval Ferrer Cabernet Franc: Balsamic nose, minty. Interesting. Good thing they blend these.

And from bottle...

2007 Quimera $40: This their premium blend of 40% Malbec, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Now we know where the grapes go. Yeasty, doughy on the nose.Tannic. Dry finish. Will take years. I will buy the blend that reverses the Cab Sauv and Cab France proportions.

The flagship wines are the single vineyard Malbecs; Finca Altamira, Finca Mirador and Finca Bella Vista. These are all outstanding wines, but one stands head and shoulders over the others. We tasted samples from the most recently released vintages.

2005 Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec $75: From a 2400 foot vineyard in the Medrano region of Mendoza. 12 months in barrel. Pronounced citrus flavors. 577 cases produced. 13%.

2005 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec $75: The Valle de Uco vineyard at 3,600 feet. Tea on the nose. Acidic. Warm finish. Chewy, caramel. You would think it was higher alcohol but only 13%. 670 cases.

2004 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista $100: Ladies and gentlemen we have a champion. And it will cost you. Could even be worth it although there are at least a couple competitors from Argentina in this price range. Candy flavors, Life savers. Refined. Elegant. Powdery vanilla scents and flavors. Exotic. 3,200 foot vineyard. 13.9% The 2005 and 2006 vintages of Bella Vista were lost to hail. The 2007 will be the next release. Look for it.

2006 Achaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza $18: Fruity, soft tannins. Not a keeper nor is it intended to be. Achaval Ferrer produces 8,000 cases of Malbec Mendoza from vineyards at 2,500 feet in Lujan du Cuyo and Maipu. In this price range I think there are better Malbecs. 13.5%

An example of a better wine in the U20 group is the 2005 Filus Reserve Malbec. This $12 wine from Hi Time Wine Cellars has everything I learned to enjoy in Argentine Malbec wines; Maipu fruit (Lulunta Valley, must be near Medrona [ed. in fact it is]), no Cabernet in the blend (in fact it is 100% Malbec), and low alcohol. Has the mocha and citrus like an exotic dark chocolate bar from Venezuela and the tannins to go a few years. Turns out Filus produces the La Boca label that can be found in TJs. [ed. Tell them you met the guy in Mendoza who designed the label]. Congrats to Patty Q for picking this one out of the pack. Heads up: Filus bottles single vineyards. Checkumout Patty! Something tells me there are plenty more bodegas like this one in Mendoza's pool of 1,200.

That was one half day touring. Next up Salentein and Andeluna in the spectacular Valle de Uco.

My pal with the hollow wooden leg Ronnie the Worker Bee says "Stevie...can you get me a case of mixed red all under $15?" Hmm. Let me think...

I love a challenge and I have such confidence in my local vendor Woodland Hills Wine Co (new website with super search engine!) - even though my favorite sales guy has gone and left us (good news - he is opening his own "shop and dine" joint) - that I gladly agree to put it together. [ed. Credit winedoctor for posting simple instructive maps of Burgundy including this one]

You know what happens, of course. I end up buying my own mixed case because Paul & Kyle Smith's deals are so damn good! I am working my way through the selection, presented for your own consideration.

2006 Trenel Beaujolais-Villages $11: This wine is so good it is ridiculous. I served it to the missus and she said so. Robert Chadderton Selection. We have tasted and reported on other Trenel wines, especially the Cru vineyards from 2005 . Good news...the 2006 vintage is equally spectacular. But, igottatellya, this is hard to beat this for the $$. Soft not quite ripe cherry fruit (I like that), velvety smooth (no tannins to speak of), and just down the hatch she goes. I did read a recent review complaining the finish was short. Hey...have another glass mister. At 12.5% you can have a few!!! Hell yeh!! Here is to low alcohol, balanced, tasty fruit-driven wine!!

2005 Cotes du Rhone Domaine de Cristia $11: This may seem unusual to say BUT thank goodness I have come across a wine that is just OK. It is the domaine's entry level so it should be at least OK. This Rhone blend is just OK. I have tasted so many fruit-driven, mostly balanced U20 wines of late it seems there is little else out there except the even BIGGER and definitely not balanced fruit-driven trophies. But this wine has that once familiar high acid presence, light tannins, slightly overwhelming the fruit, not over-ripe but still ripe enough to recognize the grenache flavors. Mild smoke, dustiness. Was a time before Parker [ed. BP, like BC or AD] most wines tasted like this one. 13%

2004 Fratelli Revello Dolcetto d'Alba $12: This label from Barolo (Piemonte) tends to turn out younger styled wines. My 1996 and 1997 Baroli aged early. I like the wines but decided awhile ago that buying Barolo wines at lofty prices was just not worth it. The go-to importer for Barolo wines, ala' Becky Wasserman for Burgundies, is Marc De Grazia. However, I think he just does not have enough variety in styles to present as broad a range as does Ms. W. This is a Marc De Grazia wine. Right out of the bottle it is quite tasty. Cookie dough and cinnamon spice flavors. However, Dolcetto's are not meant for the long term. After about 45 minutes the fruit faded and we were left with a somewhat narrower and woody drink. 13.5%

2003 Clautiere Mon Rouge ~$18 thru wine club: Syrah/cabernet blend split almost down the middle. The blend is pretty nice. The dense cab flavors set off the syrah ripeness. I automatically wrinkle my nose at "non-traditional" blends. However, in this case, the blend worked. This food-friendly wine (i.e., not overly "extracted") would complement many meals. It is remarkably fresh for a wine with 4 years plus.

...the Grenache Blanc mini taste-off...domestically speaking...

2006 Curran Grenache Blanc $24 at Curran website: A wine I have learned to love. I wish I could compare to French styles but....this is all peaches and spring flowers...nose is somewhat muted but flavors are all there. Medium weight for white wine. I have found this wine will age nicely for at least several years. Can be served at room temp. 14.1%.

2004 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc $25: Estate grown (of course). This is more serous wine with strong overlay of oak and alcohol (15.3%!!!). For a 4 year old wine this is still brawny and muscular. If the Curran wine is delicate and femmy likeHolly Golightly then the TC is all Hulk Hogan (maybe less drama). The fruit is there but, right now, the wood dominates. Almost intimidates.

I cannot help but think of the Williams Selyem and Rochioli pinot noir taste-offs we have had in the past. Again and again W/S would prove to be the fruitier and lighter wine, endlessly charming and supremely quaff-able. The Rochioli was almost always for long term aging. Totally serious with tons of complexity and to be enjoyed on its own, when Rochioli is ready (Rochioli as alpha wine?).

Now you might wonder how one can fairly compare wines from two different vintages. No explanation is offered. I do not think the Tablas Creek GB wine has lost any fruit. I just think it is a tougher wine. Both will age just fine...at least a few years.

Two excellent examples of how GB can be made in California.

Once I began reading about the Uco valley (Internet trip planning) I knew I had to visit. [ed. one of many spectacular views in the valley, this from Bodega Salentien] It just sounded too incredible: the region where the big money was taking up roost; bodegas spread even more few and far between than Maipu or Lujan du Cuyo, highest altitude vineyards in Mendoza province, and proximity to the second largest peak, Tupungato at over19,000 feet, in the Andes. Knowing there would be a major peak that I could actually see with the naked eye while touring vineyards was important because it meant I could easily torpedo any move to take a day-long bus ride (10 hours) to Aconcagua, the tallest Andean peak that can only be seen after a long bus ride up the mountain and which is a popular tourist activity when at a loss for what to do next in Mendoza. When my team was at a loss for what to do next in Mendoza we asked Posada de Rosas hostess Ellen and she suggested we have lunch in the Parque San Martin where tourists seldom ventured. As usual she was perfectly correct.

Before we review the day in Valle de Uco, I want to finish the second half of the previous day in Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo. After touring Bodegas Tempus Alba and Achaval Ferrer we were driven to the Carlos Pulenta compound in Lujan de Cuyo where we were set to have lunch at the Mendoza's finest restaurant La Bourgogne followed by a bodega tour. One can be easily fooled by a first look at the Pulenta facility. It presents as a familiar Latino rectangular compound centered around an open courtyard. There is a posada with a few rooms above the entrance and the restaurant is at the other end of the central pathway. the bodega? All underground. And it is huge.

The bodega tour was efficient. We saw the fermentation tanks and long open storage rooms. Unlike any other winery I have seen, the bottles are stored for aging individually in piles along the walls. This requires multiple opportunities to break them form the excessive handling, from the bottling line, to the storage area, back to the bottling line for labeling, and then into the shipping cases. The most interesting part of the tour was the tasting room (pictured here). I was not interested in tasting any Pulenta wines but I was very interested in examining the wall of Lujan dirt that comprised the room's longest wall.

The lunch is worth mentioning. The food was very good but the service, as noted by tasting team member PeeWee, was "indifferent". We ordered the 2004 Vistalba Corte B from the wine list ($31 US) which was anything but indifferent. Vistalba is one of many Pulenta's lines. Corte is the Argentine word for a blend. There is also a Corte A and C. Corte B blends 57% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 13% Bonnarda. Blueberry flavors. Feel was luscious. Liked it mucho [ed. even with all the cab?] Made a note to buy it in LA. Price is $25. Corte A blends Malbec and Cab in more equal amounts, but the Corte C is the one I have to try. It is 85% Malbec and 15% Merlot which, in my view, is the better blend.

and now...at long last...the Valle de Uco...

Riding to the valley is kind of like driving from LA up the backside of the California Sierras to Mammoth Mountain, except the ride is much shorter. We head south form Mendoza on Highway 42 which is like Route 66 in that it traverses the country at its longest points, north to south. Rustic, low scrub chapparal, two lane blacktop. You know you are in the boonies when the Difunte Correa and Gauchito Gil shrines start showing up alongside the road. Here is another website about Difunte Correa, the "unofficial" national saint who, along with Gil, is not recognized as divine by the Catholic Church. We crested a long hill and there was the valley with its spectacular mountains that command your eyes to continually stare...until we hit the first bodega

Salentein is the Pulenta compound in spades. It is a posada, an art gallery and a bodega in three separate buildings each occupying its own acre in a triangle arrangement. The photo above shows the walk form the gallery to the winery. I wanted to stay here but could not arrange it. The bodega, like Pulenta, is underground, however, you could fit about six Pulenta facilities into this one. If you have ever visited the Medici Tombs you have an idea of the scale and spectacle. I had to ask the guide who was buried here. The place is stupefyingly stupendous.

The place is almost overwhelming with its multiple underground levels. Art is not just in the gallery but everywhere...inside and outside This piece is adjacent to the elevator door between hose storage and the "temple" storage room. Eventually - and we were in no rush - we arrived at the tasting room. Here is what they poured us.

2006 Salentein Chardonnay $17: High acid on the nose. Tastes like chardonnay with higher acid than I expect. No tropical flavors. 6 months oak. 14%

2003 Salentein Merlot$15: Black olive on the nose. Smoky. Not impressive. 14.5%

2004 Salentein Pinot Noir $17: Smoke on the nose. Meaty fruit like a thick fleshy plum. Some barnyard, lightweight. Too much alcohol. Surprising the fruit is so nice. 15.5%

Salentein's premium line is Primus, not tasted. I have found that Salentein wines are not easy to locate, at least in LA. This is a shame because they are very good value and decent wines. They offer a wide range of varietals, as well.

Bodega Andeluna is the creation of Ward Lay, of Frito-Lay. That is correct. The same man who brought the world cheet-ohs owns a world class winery in Valle de Uco. We had a fabulous experience here. This was our lunch stop and, unlike the other "premium" dining spot, this was the top stop for the entire trip.

We never did the bodega tour because lunching with Chef Pablo cooking and serving us was too much to hurry through. Because we took the premium tasting meal we did taste some really nice wines...and ate some truly special food...and had some excellent chatting with Chef Pablo. Here are the wines...Michel Rolland gets consulting credit. San Francisco Wine Exchange imports.

2005 Andeluna Chardonnay: Baking soda, and oak on the nose. Good acid. Taste the wood. Generic. 13.4%

2005 Andeluna Chardonnay Reserve: Faint hint of sulfur and minerals on the nose, green olives. Nice mineral flavors. Oak is way in the back. Lemon cream. Meringue. This is a chard I can drink! Grown at 4,000 feet with 12 months in French oak. 13.1%. Bravo!

2005 Andeluna Merlot: Rosy nose, floral. Asparagus emerges. Olives after several minutes. Fruit forward with tannic reserve. Flabby, too sweet (ripe) and fruity. Michel Rolland all over this wine. 14%

2006 Andeluna Malbec $8: Buttered popcorn. White pepper. Younger, spicy. Lean middleweight. Excellent. Rich. Chef Pablo loves this wine. At this U10 price it is a total bargain. 14.2%.

2004 Andeluna Malbec Limited Reserve: Spicy and light citric nose. Lighter weight than expected. Balanced nicely. Tannic. 18 months in new oak. Complex and structured in a purposeful way. Cognac flavors which means high alcohol. Some caramel on finish. 14.7%

2003 Andeluna Pasianado: Blend of 20% Malbec, 35% Merlot, 35% Cab Sauv and 10% Cab Franc. Smells great. Caramel on the nose. But it is jammy, some red currants, bologna, prosciutto. Has some weight, smooth going down. 14.7%

The Missus says it tastes a lot like a wine Jim Moore, or Bob Mueller, a couple of those under-the-radar Napa winemakers covered by tBoW, who have just been making great wines for a slew of folks over numerous decades. Jim's label is l'Uvaggio di Giacomoand he used to make a wine named Parador. Bob is the winemaker at McKenzie-Mueller, profiled on this blog several times.

Now if we can just figure out where to buy some!!