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About October 2007

This page contains all entries posted to No Wine Over $20-Reviews and the LA Wine Scene in October 2007. They are listed from oldest to newest.

September 2007 is the previous archive.

November 2007 is the next archive.

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October 2007 Archives

October 1, 2007

Saturday in my "hood"

Summer is really starting to slip over the horizon. I can feel Fall in the evening air. We have to close the doors at night it is so cold!! Brrrr. It is also football time.The Trojans are rocking (even though we played like plonk against the Huskies) and the other local team has faltered as expected. I posted a pic of the band for the #1 team in the country at the Idaho rout at the end of this entry.

Nino%20%26%20Lou.jpgSomething nice about the end of summer, post-Labor day, pre-Halloween weeks is that we find ourselves with open weekends. No plans. Relaxing and playing it by ear is nummah wun. A good time to hang out in your 'hood. So naturally I am going to visit my local wine shop, Woodland Hills Wine Company (WHWC). I have been instructed by the Connecticut Mouse that I must get my hands on a bottle of Sagrantino post haste. Mouse has recently returned from Barolo where he stayed at Da Felicin and LOVED every pour and bite. Here is a photo of da man Nino at da place Da Felicin. Somehow in the calculus of wine pals I am now beholden to Mouse to get over to Paul Smith's emporium, WHWC, ASAP. Mouse has already foraged around the website and verified Paul has at least one bottle of the Sagrantino.

WHWC is humming at 2:30 on Saturday. I spot super-sales guy Steve Gulden Steve%20Gulden.jpgimmediately and present the details of my quest. He finds the bottle and asks me if I would care to sample the 2005 Beaujolais being poured in flight at the wine bar. I have a couple hours until USC kicks off in Lincoln so why not?

WHWC (aka Paul's) just gets better all the time. The sales team has always been fun. Paul sets the ribald tone and the wine flows. The wine flights (fLights not fights) at the bar are always interesting and well considered. Pricing is quite fair. Stemware is top notch. What's not to like? What I love is the 2005 Beaujolais flight. I have tasted some of these wines but not all.

There are 2 Trenel wines - St Amour, Morgon Cote du Py; a Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie les Deux Roches; and a Vissoux Morgon. Paul has something special with Trenel. I just do not see them anywhere elses and they are across the board excellent. Brittany is one of the reps pouring the 4 wines and she happily poses with Paul for mePaul%20and%20Brittany%209-07.jpg then gets her own pal to get a shot with Paul on her own camera. Doesn't Paul look great? I forgot what we talked about. I bought the 4 Beaujolais wines. How could I not?

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When I got home Linda M. called and invited us to her home for BBQ and whatever wine I would like to bring. Curious to learn what other wine lovers might think of a 2005 Beaujolais and pull something waiting long enough in the cellar I accepted the invite. Plus I adore Linda. OK. There is the setup for a casual afternoon and evening. Here are the wines.

2006 Mirassou Sauvignon Blanc ~$12
: This was open when we arrived. The wine is quite nice. This category of wine (~$10 California wines from high volume wineries that make their stake in supermarkets) is meant for easy pickins. Mirassou competes with Gallo...and thank God it does. This is fine wine for the price. Well made, balanced, nothing challenging here. Easy to drink. It would never spoil a meal and it complements many. I saw the Wine Speculator gave the 2005 an 83 score. While I have never tasted the 2005 version I cannot imagine it was much different. The grapes for this wine come from all over the state so any vintage issues are washed out in the blending. Alcohol is admirably restrained at 13.4% You have to be a real s-n-o-b to rate this wine in the low '80s which is equivalent being tossed to the WS deepest dungeon.

2006 Quincy Domaine Fouassier $15
: Now here is what you get for a few bucks more if you shop at WHWC and hit their floor stacks or the back wall as you walk in from the parking lot. This is also sauvignon blanc but instead of the goal being to to smooth out all the wrinkles this wine is all about the idiosyncracies of the region. The wine is aromatic with mild grassy aromas (sauvignon blanc, especially California and New Zealand SBs have profound grassy noses). Maus%20%26%20Rachel.jpg
The flavors are mineral without beaucoups acid. Anise in the flavor. The wine is very well balanced. 12.5%. When I asked Steve at the counter what he thought of the wine he kept it simple "great wine for the price". Right. Take that Mr. Mouse!

Trenel-CHIROUBLES-2004.jpg2005 Trenel Chiroubles $16: Second review for this wine this summer. I said I needed to get more. Now I have more. Same fruit bomb ala' France. Among the 2005 Beaujolais this is the seductress. Who needs fruity California wines when we have fruity French wines from this vintage? The resemblance (to fruity Cal wines) is there although the nuances are important. Start with 13% alcohol - low by Cal standards. The black cherry fruit is still there. Dokkerm asks can it age? Will any of these 2005 Beaujolais be drinkable in a couple years? Do I realize how many fruit bombs from Santa Rita Hills he is sitting on? Yes...yes...and yes.

2003 Anglim Syrah French Camp Vineyard $35
: Speaking of California fruit bombs, this wine falls in that group but remains captivating. The fruit bomb benchmark for myself and the good Dotore' has to be Kenneth-Crawford wines. When we first tasted these in 2003 it was an epiphany. We realized that the Santa Rita Hills were going to be the next great growing region and the next great set of California winemakers were coming out of SRH. And the winemakers of K-C were two guys to watch. A year later we were in deep reconsideration. The alcohol levels for these wines are...how to put this...high...maybe even excessive...out of control? We have a Melville Pinot that is more than 16%. The better winemakers get so much ripeness and extraction from the fruit that the alcohol is overwhelmed by it. At least upon release. Which leaves us with the nagging question...can wines with all this alcohol last? When the fruit fades will there only be vodka? But I digress. Mr. Steve Anglim makes very good wine and he is not even in SRH. He is in Paso. This wine is big and juicy. It is not thick as the Lone Madrone (which is a cabernet) but it definitely falls in with the K-C crowd. 15.4% alcohol. Glad I bought it. Glad I drank it. Had it with grilled steak. Just like they say you should.

1995 Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu ~$40/$80
: I am sure I paid around $40 but I have found it online closer to $80. This is my cellar wine that I took over to Linda's.Giacomo%20Conterno%20%26%20niece%20in%20cellar.jpg Her guy - El Rocco - liked it mucho. I can see he and I will probably be sharing more wines in the future. He has a good palate. I was happy with this wine. The 1995 vintage is a toughie to count on. Same with 1993. When we returned from a Barolo vacation in 1998 I loaded up on 93 and 95 Baroli while I waited for 96 (I have always preferred 96 to 97 in spite of the hype). This wine has classic tar and roses in the nose and in the flavor profile. Baroli are like train travel; they need a little extra time to arrive. This took 15 minutes to open. The first whiff out of the glass complemented the first taste; dusky but not corked, some say "old world" when what they mean is lean and almost astringent. This is because the old world Barolo winemakers (Giacomo Conterno) still use Slovenian oak barrels the size of a scud missile to age the nebbiolo. Look at this photo I took in the cellar of a very famous Barolo wine house. SC%20band%20vs%20Idaho.jpgNo wonder the flavors can taste old world. But when a Barolo (and I should point out that this wine is from Barbaresco which is adjacent to Barolo and is often considered a younger sibling) comes into its own the wine is like no other. It is truly unique, seductive, fruity and lean, luscious and delicate. Wish I had another. I think the Dotore' needs to prune his Barolo stash. I really hope he doesn't give me a hard time on this rather urgent matter.

Up next...Trojans conquer all who face them. Still not safe to lay the points. Uncle Pete has shown his kind side. Now it's winning time.

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October 9, 2007

The best of wine IMPORTERS!! Part One

No wines less than outstanding and plenty under $20! Dammit.

This topic is a little different. We know this blog is about wines under $20 (dubbed U20 by The Large, recently photoed with John McGlaughlin) Johnny%20Mac%20with%20Large.jpg that are outstanding or at least not offensive and at least interesting, and worth buying AND drinking. Unfortunately, there are actually so many of these wines we cannot remember even a tiny little sample of them.Atlas2.jpg Like Atlas we carry the weight of heavenly wines on our shoulders, forever searching for relief, testing our beleaguered and weakened memories. (Friendly note – having a wine friend with a strong memory like Dotoré is infinitely helpful).

So here is a shortcut. If we learn who are the most reliable importers for our U20 wines then we can be very confident when we see a wine we might like to buy and try. Simply flip to the back label and read the importer’s name. If it is one of those listed below proceed with complete confidence!

My favorite importers all possess the following characteristics: adventuresome (they search out and bring in wines from regions that are off the Trophy Wine Map); great taste - their wines are uniformly delicious, I cannot recall one bad wine from any - of course, I already mentioned the shortcomings of my memory; generally good value wines although some offer big ticket wines but they are not First Growth Bordeaux; and they can be readily found, that is they have decent distribution networks so it is likely you will find their wine selections in a REAL wine shop like North Berkeley, Wally’s, Wine House or WHMC. Insert your local premium wine retailer here.

I have listed the name, location, phone, email and URL for each so you can chase them down yourself.

kermitmasthead.gifKermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA, 510-524-1524, no email (!!!), www.kermitlynch.com: Kermit is the Trailblazer. You have to admire and love him. He wrote an outstanding book, “Adventures on the Wine Route”, that conveys his joy and thrill discovering the great wine regions of France as the young wine buyer on the hunt. He has been importing wines from fashionable and unfashionable regions of France forever. And he really does not care for technology. You cannot buy his wines online from his store. He offers no email contact. And his website is little more than an online brochure. He loves to write about his favorite wine regions which he does with the most casual and friendly style in his newsletters. He always has the coolest B&W photos of winemakers and anything else that captures his eye (food, vines) in the letter. He represents a select group of winemakers from hot shit to lesser regions. What I notice is that he shows the same level of excitement and respect to all. No Wine Speculator ‘tude here. His wines are fairly priced and always worth the investment. So check out what he has to offer by downloading his pdf newsletters. And give him a call. He covers Barolo, Burgundy, Rhone, Languedoc, Beaujolais and Provence. He has a home in Provence which he writes about and I will soon be invited there. If nothing else...sign up to receive his newsletter in the mail (yes, the US Mail).

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The Age of Riesling, Berkeley CA, 510-549-2444, ageofriesling@comcast.net, www.theageofreisling.com: If you have not ventured into German and Austrian wines…well, one day you will unless you are a total fool in which case I am ordering you off my blog. NOW. Excuse my passion but folks who love riesling are just about that nutty and with good reason. Isn't the Age of Riesling curiously close in name to the Age of Reason? Is there a message here? I love German rieslings...for good reason. germanwineamp.jpg
Especially from the Mosel. Now this is like a theme park freak saying s/he loves Disneyland. Of course you do (I hate theme parks). The Mosel has always been the honey pot of wine growing regions in Germany. It cannot be compared to any other region or any other region compared to it. It is not the Burgundy of Germany. I’m getting worked up. This is what happens when one gets to thinking about great Riesling wines. Which is why we have Bill Mayer of AoR. He presents so many options beyond Mosel that I can only thank the day I found him. First of all, he is the Konig of Austrian wines. If you think German Rieslings sound creepy wait till you hear about Austrian gruner veltliner wines. dietrich.jpg
I will say they are racy, a bit foxy, highly acidic and absolutely intriguing. If we were spies these Austrian wines would be Marlene Dietrich – we cannot really be sure which side she is on or which side she is doing. Prepare to be feel unbalanced (even though the wines are generally well balanced). I have to wrap this up. I could go on forever. I was introduced to German Rieslings very early in my wine tasting experience. I was able to buy plenty of 1983 Kabinetts, Spatleses, and Ausleses. 1983 was a legendary vintage. I started trying and buying 1976ers along with more 1983ers (German vintage reference). I was lucky to save a bunch of the 83s so that when my father-in-law turned 80 in 2000 I busted out the last half case and we drank them up in a big family dinner in a fancy pants restaurant in Santa Barbara. All Mosels and many of the great ones. The most memorable tasted like cotton candy. I know. Hard to believe but that is what I tasted. And I hate cotton candy unless I find it in a glass of 18 year old Mosel. Bill Mayer is selling fantastic wines from Austria and Germany and if you buy them now and hold onto them for 10 years you will be thrilled. I have also purchased red wines – pinot noir aka blauburgunder along with blaufrankisch and zweigelt – from Bill. I still prefer pinot noirs from Sonoma and Burgundy but I did not feel I had been misled. The newsletter is functional. The website too. Try these wines.

weygandtmasthead.gifWeygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville PA, no phone, info@weygandtmetzler.com, www.weygandtmetzler.com/: Do you like under the radar? Meet the insider's insider. Say hello to Peter Weygandt. A business attorney by training and a dedicated wine guy by devoted compulsion. He has a quote from Parker on his website that is to the point. Peter has stayed at my home on two occasions. He was the perfect guest who made his bed in the morning right after he showered. He does not crave the spotlight but he deserves it. He is the “poor man’s Kermit Lynch”. He may not approve of that characterization but it applies because Peter also plumbs France’s unfashionable and fashionable regions. He covers Alsace, Burgundy, Beaujolais and Champagne; Australia and New Zealand; Rhone and Languedoc; Loire Valley; Piedmont and Tuscany; and unfashionable regions in Spain (Basque, Navarra, Aragon). His palate is a map of great unknown and known wine regions. The breadth of selections is wider than Kermit Lynch. You can find his wines in fine wine shops in all the nation’s big cities. If you read Weygandt-Metzler on the back label it is a winner. Even the importer label is non-descript!

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Becky Wasserman Selection aka Le Serbet, Beaune France, international phone on website, sbw@leserbet.com, www.leserbet.com: She lives in France (hails, as we like to say, from New Yawk). Her son Paul used to work at Woodland Hills Wine Company where he often steered me to many fine wines. Paul has worked many places in wine, is full of info, and is a wine writer worth reading. And his mother is Becky Wasserman who like Kermit and Peter is a legendary importer. When Paul was at WHWC he brought in a slew of vintage Burgundies repped by his mom from Camille Giroud. I never heard of C-G but I was willing to try some of the older wines, 20 and 30 years, on Paul's word. Read about the circumstances that allowed schlubs like me to purchase these incredible wines. Now, Burgundies are not U20 wines. However, BW also covers Rhone, Provence, Launguedoc and Beaujolais which can yield some U20s. Here is why I have included the big ticket queen of Burgundy with the U20 kings. You have to go to a real wine shop to find her stuff. So if you find yourself in a REAL wine shop and you are searching for a big ticket wine for your wine loving boss/future pop-in-law, or your loving hard working wine loving husband or wife, and you are going to spend top dollar, then you will be well advised to step up to the local clerk and demand the Becky Wasserman selections. Visit the website, dig the mega techno talk and the neat, authoritative writing about the wines. This is good wine geek stuff. If you want to try a great burgundy with some years on it then get yourself an older vintage burg imported by Becky Wasserman from 1996 for the holidays. It is possible to spend more than $20 of your wine budget on something smart.

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October 17, 2007

Pommard, Riesling and Chardonnay? Name the singers from Destiny's Wine.

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1994 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots about $200): Fuggedabout da price. First some catty background. Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy was drummed out of DRC, Burgundy's most coveted house. She focused on her own label Leroy with ferocity. That's it for the gossip. This link is much more informative. You can also read about the 1994 vintage in Burgundy here.. All this reading suggests the vintage was not that great but that great producers made great wine despite the climatic challenges. Reading also suggests Leroy has re-released many older wines of late making wines like this one available when they would otherwise not be available at all. Lalou.jpgAs the fellow who introduced Dotore' and I to Burgundy said when we asked the price for the bottle of heavenly exotic flavors he had just poured "it's not a question of price, it's a question of availability". As for this wine...it was very interesting and wonderful. The difference between Tia Maria and Kahlua is the caramel in Tia Maria. This wine has that Tia Maria quality. The longer it was in the glass the more the caramel flavors emerged. Color shows aging. Nose was profound right at the start. No barnyard. Lean, sinewy. Attractive for a middle-aged gal just like the proprietress. I'm a chauvinist! I gottatellya it was harder finding a photo of the Madame than Adam Tolmach and that was near impossible.
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1998 Franz Hirtzberger Smaragd Hochrain Riesling $18
: "The hills are alive..." This is the Wachau Valley in Austria, close to Vienna. It is the most famous wine growing region in the Sudetenland. You may have read how I love Austrian and German Rieslings. This wine was an example of why. It is spectacular. Ripe green apples on the nose and in the mouth. Beautiful golden color. Weighty in the mouth. Clean and crisp. Like Irish Spring!! My wife, my daughter PeeWee and I tasted it. Even PeeWee's boyfriend had to sniff it. I think PeeWee finished it off. This is 10 year old Austrian Riesling at its finest. Hirtzberger is a top line producer and this is a great effort. Look at the family ferchrissake. Hirtzberger%20fam.jpg Adieu! Adieu! To yu and yu and yu-u! hochrain-riesling.jpg 13.5%. Wish I had some right now. Check out their website. Even if you don't read German. Better yet, let's all go there next Spring.

1999 Ojai VIneyard Chardonnay Clos Pepe $27: This wine was a s#225B60 at this price. Got it at Wades Wines which is a local emporium for domestic wines. He also has some very nice champagnes (single vineyard) but he is primarily renowned for his California Adam_Tolmach.jpgselection...which is outstanding and very fairly priced. Igottatellya (dontcha know people who talk like dis?) this wine is 8 years old and there is a ton of oak on it. Color is golden. Nose it subdued. The wine is not balanced but it is not out of whack either. Just oaky. The chard fruit is there. No California tropical flavors. More mineral. Clos Pepe and Cargassachi are two of the best vineyards in Santa Rita Hills and Adam Tolmach is a grand master of central coast wines. So this wine should be in perfect balance, right? Fortunately, Adam is very detailed and forthcoming about his wines and explains why it may not be. His own tasting notes are here. It is worth the effort to peruse Adam's website. I would say he is more candid on his website than in person. Here are his thoughts on winemaking. "I like to think I am the master of my own destiny. I have my vision of the ideal wine, and I know what to do to help insure I get the desired result. You obviously need great vineyards, low yields, and delicate handling of the wine in the winery". See my recent review of his 2001 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir. That wine was delightful. What happened with this 1999 chardonnay? I cannot say...but...unlike the 2001 Pinot Noir this wine does not make the hunt list.

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October 25, 2007

The Kirkland Express!! And tBoW Value of the Year...

There was a time decades ago when I shopped at Trader Joes for wine.Dunn%20label.gif
I still have the bottles of Dunn Howell cabernets with the $14 stickers and oportos for $15 purchased off the shelf at TJs. Today TJs is a top seller of Toobuckupchuck. As a rule I eschew wines sold in supermarkets. And I support my local wine retailer who does an outstanding job bringing in and putting out super values along with all the trophy wines any "collector" soaked in aftershave could ask for.

For the record, the Dunn Howell cabernets age very very well. Along with Philip Togni wines these are two Napa wines that represent far superior value than the current Speculator touts. Given the choice of spending hundreds for a new release Shry-ing Raptor or a perfectly aged Philip Togni 1990 Cabernet or a 1982 Dunn Howell...no brainer. Two are proven.

Like many good Murrkins I shop at Costco. kirkland%20flag.jpg
I am a big buyer (at least in spirit) of all things Kirkland. I even bought a bottle of Kirkland burgundy once (best left unreviewed). Costco established its wine cred by featuring BigTickit wines especially First Growth Bordeaux. However, recently I have found the occasional excellent value of unusual wines I would not expect to see in the Kirkland chain. I tasted two recently and they are reviewed here. So if you love Costco and have a double-executive-wholesale-maxi-rebate-triple-gold membership then you will want to keep your car keys in hand because you will almost certainly be racing out your driveway before you finish reading. And...as always...please...buy Kirkland responsibly.

BrancaiaTre04.jpg2004 Brancaia Tre $15: Bought this at Costco. Also saw it on the web at The Wine Club which is a major discounter so somebody dumped a bunch on the market. Goodie for us because this is very nice wine. Blend is 80% Sangiovese, 10% each Merlot and Cabernet. Brancaia is a highly regarded Italian label. This is their low end, I mean introductory, wine. Soft nose would probably have been more interesting in a larger wine glass. No mistaking the taste. Sangio and cab immediately recognizable. Very little tannins.Excellent and probably best drinking right now. Had it with shrimp linguineRichie%20%26%20Lou.jpg in red sauce at local Ital dining emporium Giovanni (aka Richie's). Great wine with a terrific meal. Richie sprays the ball off the tee but he hits it down the middle in his kitchen. Finish is ripe, some prunes but not like an Amarone. I am looking for more now. 13.5%.

2005 Domaine de la Motte Premier Cru Chablis Vauligneau $15: etiquette_chablis_premier_cru_vauligneau_2004.jpg
A friend who likes to surprise me pulled this one out at a home dinner he hosted. While he served several very nice wines, this one stood out. Classic Chablis nose of stones, oak, flint. Green flavors of a youthful wine. Lotsa lime flavors. Strong acidic sharpness that was refreshing. Nicely balanced. Nutmeg emerging. This wine got better in the glass over an hour. I was at Costco the next day and bought half a case. Great value. 13%.

White Knight Clarksburg Viognier $10: White%20Knight%20label.jpg Now here is an interesting wine. The Large put this one on the table recently and I gotta say it was great to see how this jazz historian/musician has answered the call "no wines over $20". Dammit. Here is the website link to Don Sebastiani and Sons who apparently make the wine. Before I describe my impressions of the wine I have to point out that Santa Clara U is obviously the choice among California winemakers for providing a college education. All three Sebastiani sons attended as did at least one if not two Mondavis (Michael and the girl). Who knew. Viognier is not the next big grape for me (grenache and mourverdre are). Too many California winemakers treat it like chardonnay with the heavy oak and the ripe fruit. Not here. This is lean and balanced. I will bet steel fermented. I did not get the tropical flavors in the online tasting notes. But I did get the "stone fruit". At this price it is worth hunting down if you want to try a different style of viognier. Love the screw top. 13.5%.

So where is Clarksburg? Sacramento Delta. This is good news. Last visit to Napa/Sonoma the wife and I "discovered" a region more like Paso than Napa or Sonoma while technically in Napa. Carneros. Please visit Carneros next time you are traveling to Napa. I am going to bet Clarksburg is very similar in rustic nature and the absence of monster chateaus and $40 tasting rooms. Check out the Clarksburg Wine Growers Association and learn more.

cotes04_label.jpg 2004 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas $13.40: This is my choice for Wine of the Year. I could change my mind since there are still a couple of months left in 2007. However, when it comes to value and quality this wine is very hard to top.The price is for a case. But why not buy the case? You will easily work through it. You do have to be a wine club member to get this price but you know where I stand there. And let me get this out of the way. Thanks for the Tablas Creek Blog post about this blog. OK. That looks like I am just a pimp for TC. I just think this winery is doing a great job on as many fronts as I can imagine. Solar powered energy. Organic methods. By-the-book nursery of original French vinifera for all the great and lesser known (in some cases unknown) varietals from the Rhone region. And this wine? I think I have reviewed it before. Nose is still a bit smoky and seductive. Flavors are pure grenache (64%) and syrah (16%) fruit. Tannins have settled down. Balance is perfect. This wine is still young. 14.8% which is high but it is Paso and I do not taste the alcohol. Website says two more years. Sure. If I have any left after Turkey Day because this is definitely on my Thanksgiving wine list. Works with lasagna...that's right...from Costco!!

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October 29, 2007

Tricks and treats on All Hallows Eve

Some bewitching and some spooky wines...none that taste like punkin but at least one that belongs in a bag of goodies.

sagrantino%20lable.jpg2003 Montefalco Sagrantino ~$40: Deep dark red purple color, thick looking juice, ripe aroma, bacon and chocolate (I know that sounds like chocolate covered bacon which would be awful - nevertheless, the two flavors were present). Skunkwd.jpg Then some skunkweed. Taster Richie G who is from Jersey and I (high school South Jersey) both picked it up at the same time. A moment, I know. Hard to imagine how anyone could like this wine from the tantalizing descriptions. But Jackson and Richie G of Giovanni Ristorante liked it just fine. So did I. So where is Perugia? In Umbria which is south of Tuscany and in the middle of Italy. Imagine visiting Umbria instead of Tuscany. Hmm. All the sagrantino you could hope for. Here is where you would be. perugia%20umbria%20map.jpg Not a U20 wine but worth every dollar over the limit. Fenks to the Bruin-loving Mouse for the tout. Live a little! 13.5%.

2004 La Chablisienne ~$17: The other Premier Cru Chablis at Costco (at least this week). lachablisienne%20label.jpgThe de la Motte reviewed previously was sooo good I had to give this one a whirl. Not up to the other but decent enough. Produced by the largest cooperative of some 300 winemakers in Chablis. Their aim is not to be too fancy pants but rather to make good wines representing the region. They have succeeded. Lighter weight. Yellow straw color. More lean and acidic in flavors. Quince, citrus. Nice enough but I will take the de la Motte.

1996 Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes Chambertin Gran Cru ~$100 today: Eleven year old red Esmonin%20Ruchottes%20label.jpg
burgundy from a very good year. Cellared at home for 8 years. Took it to local restaurant Toast (sorry - no website) where the fare is improving nicely. Red color. Not browning. Sweet fruit with pointed acidity. Quite nice and femmy. 14%. Held up well throughout meal. We talked about how different Calif pinots are from Burgs...and how we both love Williams Selyem. I was dining with the man who helped me plow through my considerable W/S collection finally cracking the last bottle about 18 months back. I also refer to him as the Scourge of Mastros. He said "Igottatellya I love California pinots but they don't get very good until you shell out $40". He's right. The more expensive ABC and Ojai wines are better. Wes Hagen's best Clos Pepe wines are at the top of his line. This Esmonin is one of a case of Gran and Premier Cru Frederic Esmonin wines I bought from the 95 and 96 vintages. cotenuitsmap.jpgAnd Igottatellya I have been mildly impressed with every one and let down with more than I expected. I think it's the producer. This is when I started to follow my own advice. If I am buying burgs then I am buying Becky Wasserman. If you care to learn more about the 1996 vintage ten years later in Burgundy here are some very interesting tasting notes made in June 2006 by Ken Wollenberg K&L Burg buyer on the 1996 vintage. There is one note on the Georges Mugneret Ruchottes. Better than the Esmonin Ruchottes. There is an Esmonin Charmes-Chambertin and a Camille Giroud (represented by Wasserman Selections) Chambertin Clos de Beze. chambertin%20map.gif
Geography is somewhat of a hobby for the Scourge of Mastros. He read the label which placed Ruchottes Chambertin in the Cotes d'Or but that is all of Burgundy. The Ruchottes vineyard is in the Cote de Nuits which is one of the two principal regions in Burgundy, aka Cotes d'Or. The map above shows the Cote de Nuits. The map below shows the location of the Ruchottes vineyard (#6) in the Chambertin group of Gran and Premier Cru vineyards. Here is a fun site (a wine dictionary!) where you can learn some quick info including how to pronounce roo-show.

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